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PostPosted: Thu Nov 04, 2010 1:01 pm 
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The blue adapters really set the wheels off. Awsome! Question on your arms. Are they 4" over? If so curious on the length of the shock tower to get the desired ground clearence. What is your front ground clearence.
I ask because i am converting my front end to 4" over Woods arms with standard no drop Fodril spindles. So with the standard 10" shock tower i will be losing ground clearence. The 4 over arms will reclaim some however it appears i will have to lower the top mount to reclaim the rest.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 04, 2010 7:40 pm 
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Looking good :!: Aren't all stalkers blue :?: :lol:

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 05, 2010 6:30 pm 
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Odyknuck wrote:
The blue adapters really set the wheels off. Awsome! Question on your arms. Are they 4" over? If so curious on the length of the shock tower to get the desired ground clearence. What is your front ground clearence.
I ask because i am converting my front end to 4" over Woods arms with standard no drop Fodril spindles. So with the standard 10" shock tower i will be losing ground clearence. The 4 over arms will reclaim some however it appears i will have to lower the top mount to reclaim the rest.


Thanks on the adapters. The arms are 4" over. The shock tower is 14.5" from the top of the beam to the eyelet. Fully extended there is 18.5" clearance to the bottom of the beam. At ride height there is 14.5 clearance. Keep in mind I am running a 7.60 front tire. The beam and arms are from http://www.eagleperformance.com it came with the shock towers already built on. Let me know if you need any other measurements.

tw9294 wrote:
Looking good :!: Aren't all stalkers blue :?: :lol:


Thanks! It does seem that way! :roll:

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 16, 2010 1:24 am 
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Braced the roof tonight and started on the front bumper.

Image

Had to cut the support bars off the shock mounts to mount the bumper, will just have to remake them at more of an angle.

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Then after shortening the bumper because I thought it stuck out to far, I realized that I didn't need to cut the bars off the shock mounts :oops:

Image

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 16, 2010 8:16 am 
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very nice scott

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 6:06 pm 
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how ya makin out scott ?

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 09, 2011 9:53 pm 
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giveitagallon wrote:
how ya makin out scott ?


Been out of town a lot and have not had gotten anything done on the buggy. :cry: Should get a chance this week to make some progress!

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2011 10:28 pm 
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I finally got some time to work on the buggy. Here are some pics.

Got the front bumper modified and tacked in and the shock tower braces remade.

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Made a plate for the pedals that is going to bolt in.

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Since I decided to change trannys and use the weddle shift linkage we had to modify the gas tank again.

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Started to make the x bracing for behind the seats.

Image

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 8:55 pm 
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Started on the rear x bracing and was trying to decide how I wanted to do it, here are the two ideas that i'm down to. I'm leaning towards the first two so it does not block my view out the rear. I do have to run the bar that goes side to side because I cannot run the brace straight from the coner of the roof to the torsion because it would hit my gas tank.

Image

Image

Image

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 9:59 pm 
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if you are already running the bar side to side i like the first 2 myself scot!(the second the most) i like the look and its forsure gonna be stout :wink: very nice work!!!

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 10:12 pm 
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Any extra bracing is always good. I think the 1st one will be the strongest. I always go a triangle whenever possible. I am not a huge fan of the last one. Just looks a little cluttered...

Awesome work... Cannot wait to see the buggy running..

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 10:45 pm 
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My votes for the first one. Love this build :!: :D

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 1:21 pm 
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Lookin great!

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 8:52 pm 
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#2 for me. To brace the middel of the custom torsion.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 24, 2011 12:02 am 
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any updates scott? which way did you decide to brace it?

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 24, 2011 8:43 pm 
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bmoore wrote:
any updates scott? which way did you decide to brace it?


I decided to go with picture number 2, but I have not done it yet. Here are some pics of what I have done.
I cut off the rear lower hoop and rear cage mounts. I remade the lower hoop so the engine can be taken in and out without a problem. I'm going to remake the rear cage to clear the turbo.

Image

Image

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I'm going to extend the rear frame a little to make my cage mounts

Image

Image

Image

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 24, 2011 10:52 pm 
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nice choice on brace #2 lol.. i also like the rear cage mods :wink: i really like your build!!!

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 25, 2011 1:42 pm 
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bmoore wrote:
nice choice on brace #2 lol.. i also like the rear cage mods :wink: i really like your build!!!


Thanks bmoore. I got the bracing made and tacked in.

Image

Image

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 27, 2011 1:57 pm 
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Looks great! You might want to move the X brace in a little tighter, I think the horizontal tube is gonna crack like hell between the center of the X with the frame flexing.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 27, 2011 2:48 pm 
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Gotta agree there. That will crack. Don't put the intersection with the cross bar, the heat soak will weaken it up too. If you can raise the diagonal cross up about 4 in above the cross bar. Other than that WOW.
Suggestion, for your frame connectors..........
Image
I made mine but they are available.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 27, 2011 8:59 pm 
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Personally I think the "X" brace will be just fine the way it is. I have a similar setup on the top front of my buggy and have not had a cracking issue yet after 3 years of Wellsville. And i am pretty sure I flex F#@K out of my frame. Granted it is a different "X" bracing than mine however flex is flex. As some us know if it will pass the test for me it should last a long, long time for him. lol. Just MHO. :|

Image

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Last edited by Odyknuck on Fri Jan 28, 2011 11:10 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 9:06 am 
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MadMike wrote:
Gotta agree there. That will crack. Don't put the intersection with the cross bar, the heat soak will weaken it up too. If you can raise the diagonal cross up about 4 in above the cross bar. Other than that WOW.
Suggestion, for your frame connectors..........
Image
I made mine but they are available.


Are Camburg the only people who make these (other than you Mike)? thiers are made from 4130 CroMo and cost $$$ seem overkill for joining mild steel tubes..


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 10:20 am 
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You can get those alot of places. I think even latest rage sells some cheap ones.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 11:27 pm 
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RaceBugg1098 wrote:
Looks great! You might want to move the X brace in a little tighter, I think the horizontal tube is gonna crack like hell between the center of the X with the frame flexing.


MadMike wrote:
Gotta agree there. That will crack. Don't put the intersection with the cross bar, the heat soak will weaken it up too. If you can raise the diagonal cross up about 4 in above the cross bar. Other than that WOW.
Suggestion, for your frame connectors...........


Moving it tighter makes sense. But if I move the diagonal cross up would I just tighten up the spacing on the lower bars or line them up with the top bars? Thanks for the input.

Great minds must think alike Mike, I was looking at using those frame connectors on the rear cage. :D

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 30, 2011 12:16 pm 
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Couldn't you just tie the center section together with a couple more of those rolled braces like you used on the roof corners? Appletree has those tubing connectors for $25 ea and they are having a 10% sale on top of that I think. Pacific Customs has them also for about $30. Looks Awesome.


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