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PostPosted: Mon Sep 23, 2013 10:35 pm 
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MadMike wrote:
BigScott wrote:
giveitagallon wrote:
Great work ! Guess ya figures the machine out already ?


Thanks! I'm learning, lucky for me I have a friend who programs and runs cnc machines for a living and he has helped me a lot! <img src="http://www.woodsbuggy.com/plugins/system/yvsmiley/phpbb/icon_e_biggrin.gif" alt="Very Happy" class="yvSmiley">


Damn, I was looking forward to "camping out" in your barn.


I'm still looking forward to that! My buddy is a great machinist and can design stuff on the computer to use the cnc mill, but he is not a fabricator. I'll be ready to learn some stuff whenever you can make the trip!! :D

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 14, 2013 10:40 pm 
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After putting some miles on the buggy I noticed that the tranny flanges had a lot of up and down slop. They are brand new probably china made set of type 2 bus to 930 flanges. After talking to Mad Mike about how Avery's aircooled take factory german type 2 flange turn them down and weld 930 outers on them. Since I had the factory flanges we decided to make our own. Here's some pics and yes it solved the problem, there is no slop what so ever in them now!

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I forgot to take a picture of the type 2 to 930 flange before we turned it down

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Nice tight fit!

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I have to say thanks to HalfCab for tiging these up!

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 14, 2013 11:25 pm 
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Looks great Scott, and nice weave on the TIG Dan.
One thing should be noted, Big Scott is running a half shaft axles instead of plunging axle CV's. If he were running CV's the internal weld would need to be machined some to allow the axles to plunge into the flanges.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 18, 2013 7:58 am 
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Very nice work guys ! Your on the homer roll for this build !

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 19, 2013 7:38 pm 
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MadMike wrote:
Looks great Scott, and nice weave on the TIG Dan.
One thing should be noted, Big Scott is running a half shaft axles instead of plunging axle CV's. If he were running CV's the internal weld would need to be machined some to allow the axles to plunge into the flanges.


Thanks mike, I drove it and they work great!

giveitagallon wrote:
Very nice work guys ! Your on the homer roll for this build !


Thanks, a lot of buddy's have helped me out over the course of this build and it's much appreciated! :D

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 20, 2013 8:19 pm 
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Got the headlight mounts made, we drew them up and had HalfCab laser cut them.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 09, 2013 11:38 pm 
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Was thinking I would widen the roof some and came up with this to tie in with my tree bars but i'm not sure if I like it. What do you guys think?

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 10, 2013 12:24 am 
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I'm thinking that in a roll over, that would just fold over without some kind of triangulation. Doesn't look like there's enough room anywhere to do that.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 10, 2013 12:41 am 
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MadMike wrote:
I'm thinking that in a roll over, that would just fold over without some kind of triangulation. Doesn't look like there's enough room anywhere to do that.


I was thinking the same thing :shock:

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 10, 2013 7:45 am 
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I like the look of the added roof bars.
I'm sure you already though of this but how about on the rear of the top bar going down to the rear towards the inside or outside of the shock?
It still may not be enough and need some in the front also.
Also, great looking build.
Norm


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 10, 2013 8:23 am 
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Or to the tree bars keep us updated looks great

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 1:41 am 
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MadMike, that is a LOONNGG Drive. Honk as you go by. :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 04, 2014 6:47 pm 
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I haven't done much to the buggy lately, but I did get my rear light mount made. Thanks to Halfcab for cutting it with the laser!
And I should have my new rear arms setup for parallel swing next week.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 19, 2014 8:56 am 
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It was like Christmas in April, ups and fedex dropped off some goodies!

The new 30" LED light bar, in case the lights go out in the shop I can still work on my buggy. Seeing how it's spent 3yrs in the shop and only 1 day on the trails!! :oops:

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The new parallel trailing arms from Precision Alloy, thanks to Todd and Dave for a badass set of arms!

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Big difference compared to my old arms

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 2:01 pm 
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Awesome looking build!! Lovin the stalker frame setup and that Suby turbo engine should scream :mrgreen: Good luck with the rest of the build and I cannot wait to see it completely finished!! :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :D :D

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PostPosted: Fri May 09, 2014 6:47 pm 
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NICE WORK...


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2015 8:50 pm 
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After 2 sets of arms and then cutting the second set up to make them work, they are on!

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2015 8:23 am 
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looks good! what was the problem with the other arms?

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2015 10:25 pm 
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RaceBugg1098 wrote:
looks good! what was the problems with the other arms?


I ordered the arm to be setup up to have a parallel swing instead off the standard Vw swing. They did a great job on the arms but once I mounted one I realized that it was about 2.5 " to long, come to find out when they setup the jig they measured from the center of the torsion instead of the center of the mount that was going to be welded to the rear of the torsion. So I sent them back and they built another set for me and they were perfect. Then once I got one of the new ones mounted and cycled the suspension the drive shaft hit the arm with about 2.5" of travel left. So I cut the arms apart and changed the angle of the upper bar and all is good. Lol

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 14, 2015 8:29 am 
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Great work, it looks mean!!

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 14, 2015 2:58 pm 
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Nice looking buggy

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 16, 2015 8:28 am 
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[quote="BigScott"]After putting some miles on the buggy I noticed that the tranny flanges had a lot of up and down slop. They are brand new probably china made set of type 2 bus to 930 flanges. After talking to Mad Mike about how Avery's aircooled take factory german type 2 flange turn them down and weld 930 outers on them. Since I had the factory flanges we decided to make our own. Here's some pics and yes it solved the problem, there is no slop what so ever in them now!

Image

Worth noting:
1)When chucking up on seal surfaces, soft jaws are
recommended. Hard jaws dig in and create voids
on the seal surface that can cause leaks when the
transaxle oil gets hot.
2) If a seal surface gets damaged, there are a few repairs
that work:
a) prep and weld cladding, then remachine.
b) install chromed sleeve and oversized seal.
(similar to harmonic balancer repair kit).
c) prep and chrome seal area.
3) File off sharp points and high spots. dress
edges with die grinder and carbide ball to blend.
Use new rugged seal with strong retention
spring. A double seal is even better.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 18, 2015 1:55 am 
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Location: Anaconda, MT
On soft metals I always used some soft aluminum or copper scraps as shims between the chuck jaws and the part. 1/8" to 1/4" thick pieces have usually worked well for me. You can use a piece of tape to hold the shims to the jaws so they don't fall out when you dial in the part.


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