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PostPosted: Tue Mar 17, 2015 6:03 am 
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Location: bardstown, ky.
I tried just a spark arrester and it was way to loud with a drone you couldnt stand. i looked around alot but couldnt find anything short enough, so i made my own. i took a spark arrester about 4 1/2 inches in diameter and welded a 3 inch tube inside it drilled with holes and closed the ends in. . Its driveable now but still has a big bark when you call on it


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 17, 2015 9:48 am 
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Location: Shelbyville ,Indiana
Here is what I did .. Take offs from a street bike.Image


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 17, 2015 9:48 am 
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Location: Shelbyville ,Indiana
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2015 12:12 pm 
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Location: Randolph, Ohio
Radiator mounted and plumbed. Should have it running this weekend if I get time to wrap up some odds and ends. Image


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 01, 2015 9:47 pm 
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Location: Randolph, Ohio
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Well she is running! Took it out for a quick test run and all went well. Only thing is the fan circuit doesn't seem to be kicking on. Any ideas? Got most of my rear cage adapted over. Just need to finish a rear engine mount and paint it up.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 01, 2015 9:50 pm 
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Location: Shelbyville ,Indiana
Are you running a thermostat?


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 01, 2015 10:06 pm 
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Location: Randolph, Ohio
Yes. Let it warm up temp and the fans never kick on.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 01, 2015 10:13 pm 
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Location: Shelbyville ,Indiana
What temp did it get to ?
What Ecu are u using ?


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 01, 2015 10:16 pm 
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Location: Randolph, Ohio
It hit 215 on the gauge and I shut it down. Running a kit from alpha


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 01, 2015 10:22 pm 
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Location: Shelbyville ,Indiana
That is odd ! I think factory fan temp is 212 . I guess it could be fluctuations in gage vs comp sensor ? But like you I would be concerned to let it climb much higher to find out . Don't know if it helps but I ran a secondary switch to my fans so I could energize fans manually as well .


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 01, 2015 10:26 pm 
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Location: Shelbyville ,Indiana
Only things I can think of is sensor and temp probe are not equal in reading or faulty signal wire to fan . Or ecm prob


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 01, 2015 10:26 pm 
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Location: Randolph, Ohio
I was thinking of putting at least one fan on a manual switch. I got my laser temp out to check my gauge and it was reading even hotter coming out of the motor which is why I shut it down.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 01, 2015 10:35 pm 
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Location: Shelbyville ,Indiana
Or another thought ... coolant system has a trapped air pocket allowing hot spots .
I just about bet if you get ahold of Jeremy Durch on here he can help ya ! Extremely knowledgeable guy ... has helped me a lot .


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2015 8:25 am 
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Location: Bradenton, FL
I cant help wit why the fans are not coming on but even when I unplug mine fans it does not get that hot.
Does the temp drop when moving?
Where is your thermostat located?
If its on the return hose, you might of did this but drill a small hole in the thermostat flange to bleed the air out.
You may have air in the system.
I would suggest a overflow for the rad.
Norm
My setup is similar to yours and the fluid level in my bottle changes quite a bit between hot and cold.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2015 10:16 am 
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Location: wooster ohio
Make sure you don't have an air pocket. I too have an ecotec with dual fans(small fan and a larger fan) I don't even have the larger fan plugged in. its hard for me to get the engine hot. Info below is from GM service information.

Cooling Fan Control
The engine cooling fan system consists of 2 electrical cooling fans and 3 fan relays. The relays are arranged in a series/parallel configuration that allows the powertrain control module (PCM) to operate both fans together at low or high speeds. The cooling fans and fan relays receive battery positive voltage from the underhood fuse block. The ground path is provided at G106.

During low speed operation, the PCM supplies the ground path for the low speed fan relay through the low speed cooling fan relay control circuit. This energizes the cooling fan 1 relay coil, closes the relay contacts, and supplies battery positive voltage from the cool fan 1 fuse through the cooling fan motor supply voltage circuit to the left cooling fan. The ground path for the left cooling fan is through the cooling fan S/P relay and the right cooling fan. The result is a series circuit with both fans running at low speed.

During high speed operation the PCM supplies the ground path for the cooling fan 1 relay through the low speed cooling fan relay control circuit. After a 3 second delay, the PCM supplies a ground path for the cooling fan 2 relay and the cooling fan S/P relay through the high speed cooling fan relay control circuit. This energizes the cooling fan 2 relay coil, closes the relay contacts, and provides a ground path for the left cooling fan. At the same time the cooling fan S/P relay coil is energized closing the relay contacts and provides battery positive voltage from the cool fan 2 fuse on the cooling fan motor supply voltage circuit to the right cooling fan. During high speed fan operation, both engine cooling fans have their own ground path. The result is a parallel circuit with both fans running at high speed.

The PCM commands Low Speed Fans on under the following conditions:

•Engine coolant temperature exceeds approximately 106°C (223°F).
•When A/C is requested and the ambient temperature is more than 50°C (122°F).
•A/C refrigerant pressure exceeds 1 310 kPa (190 psi).
•After the vehicle is shut off if the engine coolant temperature at key-off is more than 140°C (284°F) and system voltage is more than 12 volts. The fans will stay on for approximately 3 minutes.
The PCM commands High Speed Fans on under the following conditions:

•Engine coolant temperature reaches 110°C (230°F).
•A/C refrigerant pressure exceeds 1 655 kPa (240 psi).
•When certain DTCs set
When the request for fan activation is withdrawn, the fan may not turn OFF until the ignition switch is moved to the OFF position or the vehicle speed exceeds approximately 10 mph. This is to prevent a fan from cycling ON and OFF excessively at idle.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2015 10:41 am 
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Location: Randolph, Ohio
I was wondering how much of an issue it really is. I drove it around for a bout 10 min and then had to let it sit outside the garage at an idle for another 10 just to get it that hot. My concerns would be how hot it would get when I am beating on it. Also it seems like a shame to put all that time into mounting and wiring those damn fans up to not use them lol. Worst comes to worse I will just throw them on a manual switch and turn them on when I am running hard or not moving.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2015 10:54 am 
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Location: wooster ohio
Summit Racing sells fan relay kits with adjustable thermostats so you can have fans come on when you want them to. My issue with toggle switches for fans is that I'm not paying attention to my coolant temps until its already overheating.

Also you need to have relays for fans. If not when you shut engine off it will continue to run until fans slow as they will actually provide current until they slow down.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2015 11:20 am 
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Location: Birmingham, Alabama
I get more praise from my Pull a Part parts. Dammat high price pretty stuff. I have a Cherokee radiator in my Baby chain w/c with 1 fan ran off the big power throw bar and the other I control with a toggle. Those relays, extra wires and thermal sensors that control yer fan can ruin a good motor. Take a domino out of your mile long set up and what happens? That pretty stuff will be muddy after the 1st ride anyway. Relay full of water and rust. And as always , a cast iron block overheating is forgiving to an aluminum head because the iron block holds its shape and keeps the head straight. Luminum on luminum , you need a gauge and a lite, maybe a horn for drunks, I'd suggest. Don't even run a fuse to the fan. A cheap fuse blew and burnt my 1st w/c after overheating about 4 times.. I lost too much compression. Remember K.I.S.S. I was stupid.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2015 11:35 am 
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Location: wooster ohio
I have multiple relays and sensors im my buggy and none of them have failed in years (buy quality stuff) even after this.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2015 4:32 pm 
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Location: Birmingham, Alabama
:) I'm speaking to the masses that are in the woods sat and sun and chug thru mud , creeks, bushes ,saplings, and skin it back on hills. :) And to the ones who want to save a buck so their families can do well. Have 2 independent fans and circuits if ya got the $. I can not beat the woods addiction. :( When I get rich, I want a 2 story double wide. :P


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2015 7:33 pm 
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Location: Corydon, IN
Do you have a code scan tool? You could see what the ecu is reading.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 05, 2015 11:24 pm 
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Location: lockland ohio
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get you some


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 05, 2015 11:25 pm 
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Put a temp gauge in your face with a light to..

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 06, 2015 8:19 pm 
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Location: SouthEast Ky.
I had same problem with mine after warming up it would go to 235 at idle would not cool off even with fans running I thought I had bad prob, but finally I took off radiator cap and just let I run after about 15 or 20 mins. it started pushing some antifreeze out then a lot of air after air came out it instantly started cooling back off went back down to 180, and trapped air can also cause your fans to not kick on.Just my 2 cents worth though.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2015 10:27 am 
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These motors are tricky to bleed out. Son has a Cobalt SS SC. Manual states to fill up the reservoir and run it at 2500 rpm adding coolant as it takes it. We pull off the top rad hose and prefill the block seems to work well.


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