Maybe that's why the sleeve was off of the one that came out? It has the bolt holes, but no sleeve???

i seen that! not real sure about the sedan tranny's, but i know on a bus tranny you cant just take the sleeve off!i would guess i'm right, but thats a guess

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ANTI- antifreeze!!!!!!

Kris, The ring and pinion gear ratio will dictate the size tire you can pull. If you intend to run a near stock VW engine the 4:12 would be best for riding in the woods and on the street. You could run up to a 31" tire and have decent power in the woods and still pull 4th on the road.

The 3:88 would be great for a street machine as it would allow interstate cursing. Not much of a gear for more than a VW stock tire. The 3:88 has all good gears so I would hold on to it If you ever decide to build another trans or sell/ or trade it for a Bus 3 rib or 5 rib to a guy building a street machine.

You did not waste your money.

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

Oh, I know I didn't waste my money. I do mostly in town driving, so I don't need a lot of highway gear. I would rather have the all-around trans that will pull a bigger tire. It has 31" on there now. I will definitely hang on to the old one, maybe bring it up your way to see what's going on inside. I was told it popped out of reverse, but would work if you held the shifter. I have not tried engine braking it to see if it popped out of any other gears. As soon as I got it home, I started taking it apart.

So what's your take on the sleeve on the drive shaft? Am I going to need new parts? I'm off until Jan 4th (gotta love a University job), and can give you a call any time. I'll be on the road most of the day tomorrow to go get the bug. No idea what trans it has in it.

Mail call! Now it's time to really get to work.

If your pressure plate has a ring inside the fingers just pop it out and the new trans will work like it is, every pressure plate I've bought I've had to pop the ring out of the center

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IF YA CAN'T RUN WITH IT....RUN FROM IT

Exactly as it was when I pulled the other trans

That is the correct pressure plate for the new Trans you need not buy a new clutch assembly

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

good luck with that pedal box. i had to do alot of "adjusting" to make mine line up right.



i had to shim the pedals to the left with nuts to make the pushrod straight and bend up the stop flap to get full travel out of the pedal

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If it ain't broke ill fix that

Ikd how the throwout bearing kept from wobblin around without that lil slide piece with the 3 bolts

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IF YA CAN'T RUN WITH IT....RUN FROM IT

No idea.

i hate to give advice if i'm wrong but i;ve always understood that the cone keeps the throw out bearing pushing even with the pressure plate, and when you have the cone style bell housing you pop the washer ring off of the pressure plate. and if you dont have the cone ,you leave the ring washer on.qoute"I almost forgot about this! This seems to be real confusing to a lot of people. I put a picture up because the two types of throw out bearings are hard to describe. The trannys that have the guide tube in the center of them MUST use the later style pressure plate WITHOUT a ring in the center of it AND the flat looking arm. You can remove the cone and put in an older style arm IF the arm that's in it now is the small one. (I think the small one is 17mm and the large one is 22mm). All of the bigger arms that I have seen MUST be used for the late style throw out bearing and pressure plate(without ring). The trannys without a center guide tube MUST use the pressure plate with a ring in the center of it. Again you can change the arm, but this time in order for you to do this, the trans MUST have 3 bolt holes for you to be able to bolt the cone on. Most pressure plates can be converted from the early style (with ring) to the late style by simply removing the ring. The late style trans with the cone is far better then the older ones, I guess that's why they changed it"end qoute, from eric deboard. now does this only apply to bus trannys? i can see that his new tranny would work with the pressure plate he has, but dont understand how the old one would have? some one explain please? not to hijack your thread either but maybe we'll both learn something ..... as i was typin this i saw your reply nri buggy and now you see what i mean!

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ANTI- antifreeze!!!!!!

once again i'm not sayin who's wrong or rite just stating some facts that i 've learned to believe and hope that i'm rite quote"How to tell what your tranny has in it without taking it apart (identification)
With the case design and the 2 prefix letters on the bottom, MOST transmissions tell their story without you having to take them apart. All of the old swingaxles up to 66-67, have a 4.37 R&P and a VERY weak first gear. Also, they have the 11 tooth (weaker) spider gears, But all of these older swingaxles have a steel 1st/2nd shifting fork.(stronger for "quicker" shifting) ("Speed" shifting will make a short life out of a VW tranny). From 67-up, swingaxles have a 4.12 R&P with a "better" first gear, the same weaker 11 tooth spider gears, and a brass shifting fork (not for ANY speed shifting!!!) IRS- All Irs trannies with the prefix code AH on the bottom left "corner" have a 4.12 R&P with the same "fair" first gear as the later model (12 volt) swingaxles, AND the brass 1st/2nd shifting fork, and 11 tooth spider gears. MOST (not all) of these will also have the two unboltable diff. covers. IRS trannies with the Prefix code of AT have a 3.88 R&P, bigger and better(10 tooth) spider gears, a stronger 1st gear(3.78 ratio), and a wider 1st/2nd shifting fork. Some are brass, and some are steel, you cannot know unless you take it apart, however, even the brass ones in these trannies are fairly strong. MOST (again there are a few exceptions) have a ONE side unboltable diff. cover. IRS trannies with a prefix of AV are a mix. They are out of the VW "thing" and have the 10 tooth spider gears, a 4.12 R&P, the strong 3.78 first gear, and output flanges that accept the type 2 cv joints. These are a tough trans in its stock form, especially for an IRS." end qoute- eric deboard

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ANTI- antifreeze!!!!!!

Excellent Dave that is the source I used to figure it out for Kris. Not that I haven't tore at least a hundred apart. I have rebuilt quite a few over the years. I want to be very clear if it worked good and broke I could fix them. If they jumped out of gear or where unknown they were junk. Now bus units were different so I took a junk super beetle cut out the entire firewall and welded a new shift box on top of the tunnel and made a transmission tester for the used units we would buy at swap meets. 15 minutes in and out. Put a keg gas tank in the passenger seat. People would look at us driving it down the back roads. Wish I had a photo.

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

Finally back home with the parts car. I'll start on it tomorrow. When I get tired of pulling parts, I'll get back to working on the buggy.

Well now, wasn't that fun?

looks like it might have been

Looks like ever more fun to degrease.

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

I think I might have a small leak in the steering box and a couple other spots

thats normal its old

Yeah, but I got it mostly cleaned up after a lot of scraping and scrubbing. One good thing about it being that greasy, not a whole lot of surface rust. Just a couple of spots where I think somebody got crazy and removed some of the grease. How long does it take to turn grease and mud into concrete? About 40 years I have never seen stuff as hard as some of what I scraped off of this beam.

I think I'm going to use the steering box on the beam I had and put this one on a shelf until I have time to clean it and see where it's leaking. The main reason for swapping the beams was that the new one had complete brakes and a steering stabilizer. The brakes weren't a deal breaker, but the stabilizer and bracket were gone from the old one. This beam also has grease zerks, but it looks like they will have to come out when I put it on the buggy. They look to be right where the frame clamps go.

I'm wondering if I should keep the pan. It's rusted out where the battery was sitting, like a lot of them do. Other than that, it's in pretty decent shape. There is a piece of sheet metal tacked in where the hole is, so it's not open to the road. The body is shot, unfortunately, and will go to the scrapper.

How heavy is the body when the doors, fenders, hood and glass are removed? I will probably just toss it and the rest on my little trailer and haul it off.

Another thing, the bug has a fan shroud with the oil cooler outside. Is it hard to swap them out or is it just remove and replace?

The Fan shroud is an easy swap, if you are going to use a dog house style or replace the oil cooler get some new seals. They are a bitch to change when it is all assembled.

The grease fittings are generally in the wrong place. The steering boxes can leak at the top seam or out of the breather hole.

The stock pan could be saved for a future project but at a minimum I would keep the torsion assembly and rear section as that can be used to build a new buggy later.

The glass and doors if in decent condition can be sold on the Samba web site. You would be amazed at the crap people will buy. (Not picking on you) I understand your reasons.

If you have my number call me, I will be going to La Grange GA before New years

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

The case from the bug has a non-factory ventalation hole in it. I have no idea what kind of crap might be inside of the oil cooler, so I'm not putting it on my engine. The hole is about the size of a ping long ball and looks like it was hit with a hammer. I'll figure something out, or just run mine with the old style for now. Money is going to be real tight until tax time, so I'm going to have to sell stuff to buy stuff. I may keep the glass and whatever will fit on a shelf and sell it as I need or if somebody here needs something. The main body is junk. The fenders are about the same. The seats are actually in pretty good shape. They will need to be reupholstered since the vinyl has dried out and started cracking pretty bad.

I know what you mean about people will buy anything. I've been known to waste money on stuff when I thought I had to have it or when I didn't know any better and got ripped off.

I'm about 30 minutes down the interstate from Lagrange. Let me know when you'll be down. I'm off til the 4th of Jan, but I will have my daughter after Christmas.

someone has got to have a doghouse cooler they dont need if i had one it would be yours.ya might can just flush that one out

I was wondering about flushing it out, but I'm not sure I would ever be comfortable with it. There would always be that suspicion that something is still in there, waiting to break loose and destroy my engine. Of course, I have almost 2 complete engines now (only 1 "good" case), 4 transaxles, and a complete rolling pan for the next build (once I get the bug body off). I think my wife is considering smothering me in my sleep At least it will be peaceful.