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PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 12:26 pm 
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So is it done?!!! Let me know when you want to get those parts powdercoated, my buddy can get ahold of that guy and get them done!


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 8:15 pm 
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U drunk jeffy , u really think I have it done since u was here last ! Lol

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 28, 2012 9:24 am 
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ImageImageImageImagethese are the rear 4x4 arms me and dave built , they will have 1/2 ton chevy wheel hubs and the stubs will be machined to work like a micro stub . all the tubing was 1 inch chromoly .
ImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageguess who did a fine job on my new bad ass front end .......
Imagemy very good freind tonya (aka) ruttrider finished my wire harness and did a great job !!!ImageImageImageImagejust rolled the tires up to her to get a idea of what she will look like . lol

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 10:56 am 
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Curious why the short spring is on the bottom of the shock? Techinally it should be on the top. I can only assume it is the stiffer of the two correct?
BTW Is this project ever gonna get Done! :roll: :wink: :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 8:25 pm 
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Odyknuck wrote:
Curious why the short spring is on the bottom of the shock? Techinally it should be on the top. I can only assume it is the stiffer of the two correct?
BTW Is this project ever gonna get Done! :roll: :wink: :mrgreen:

I'm not real sure I have not researched the shocks at all . That is how the was setup when I got them . What all are the steps to setting them up correctly if you don't mind helping me .....
Also I hope to have it done in a month or two cause of a little drought I'm going threw :cry:

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 10:15 pm 
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The Main spring (bottom) should be the longer of the two and also have a stronger spring rate then the Tender (top). Typically you want to stay with in 100# of each other. As I recall both of the springs on those shocks were of the same rate. I suspect they were changed to accomadate the heavy V8 motor and may be to high of a spring rate for the Subie setup. The rates should be marked on springs.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 8:46 am 
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I haven't been on here for a bit, but that buggy is looking sharp. You're doing a nice job with it, I can't wait to see it on the trails.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 12:51 pm 
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Thanks Jules for the compliment ! She has come a long way and I'm chugging along but things have been a little tight lately so have not completed it . I enjoy hearing what people think about what were doing with the buggy so thanks for the good words ! Hope to ride with ya soon !

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 1:03 pm 
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Odyknuck wrote:
The Main spring (bottom) should be the longer of the two and also have a stronger spring rate then the Tender (top). Typically you want to stay with in 100# of each other. As I recall both of the springs on those shocks were of the same rate. I suspect they were changed to accomadate the heavy V8 motor and may be to high of a spring rate for the Subie setup. The rates should be marked on springs.

What rates are you running steve ? Just as a reference ....

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2012 10:15 am 
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I at the point of mounting the turbo and was wondering what the temp gets to on the turbo housing ? The best place I came up with the turbo is 8 to 10 inches away from my fuel cell . I wish I could load pics on here now to show y'all buy my email was hacked and I can't figure out how to fix it . Any help on the turbo setup would be great !
Thanks Jason

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2012 10:26 am 
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The hot side of the turbo gets really hot. Just as hot if not hotter than the exhaust. They make turbo "blankets" or covers that keep some of the heat out. If you run a cover I think you'll be fine being that close. At the least I would consider a heat shield so nothing goes boom. You guys with lathes and mills make me so jealous. I have no clue how to run either but I sure would have a blast trying. Project looks great.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2012 4:32 pm 
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Odyknuck wrote:
The Main spring (bottom) should be the longer of the two and also have a stronger spring rate then the Tender (top). Typically you want to stay with in 100# of each other. As I recall both of the springs on those shocks were of the same rate. I suspect they were changed to accomadate the heavy V8 motor and may be to high of a spring rate for the Subie setup. The rates should be marked on springs.


this doesnt make any sense to me? from what i know of springs, the longer the spring (more coils) the softer the rate, shorter spring less coils=stiffer rate. im also confused about the position of the springs im not so sure it would mater which ones on top or bottom the softer one always gonna colapse first. im not saying your wrong as im sure you know more about springs than myself. but it just doesnt make sense.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2013 11:48 pm 
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fortydegnorth wrote:
The hot side of the turbo gets really hot. Just as hot if not hotter than the exhaust. They make turbo "blankets" or covers that keep some of the heat out. If you run a cover I think you'll be fine being that close. At the least I would consider a heat shield so nothing goes boom. You guys with lathes and mills make me so jealous. I have no clue how to run either but I sure would have a blast trying. Project looks great.

I have no clue either , I just do as I'm told and hope I'm told the correct way !! :lol:
Thanks for the info on the turbo !!

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 12:14 am 
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Ya the stiff spring goes on bottom and lighter one on top. And the bottom spring is longer than the top spring . And once you get your spring rates when your buggy is sitting sitting there u adjust your. Jam nuts between the two springs . U want them about an inch abouve the plastic spacer where the bottom of the top spring is and the top of the bottom spring .


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 12:19 am 
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And u want the correct valving for your application also it does make a difference. Nice buggy


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 8:29 am 
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With your polished side panels we'll have to change your name to "Chrome King". :lol:

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 8:54 am 
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by giveitagallon » Wed Jan 30, 2013 10:44 pm

Big bump for Progress report !
Theirs no replacement for displacement !

Yea! What you said! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: . Chad :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 8:57 am 
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Lol it looks pretty but a wise man once said ..
Chrome don't get ya home ! :?
I thought about a couple ways to try and get away from that and all of them come back to the same thing on the pyramid
One buddy works at a Teflon coating shop
One buddy works at a anodizing shop
One buddy has a hook up on powdercoat
On aluminum they will all scratch and look bad when beat up .....
My thought so far is keep up on cleaning it this year and if it a pain then repolish it and maybe do that vehicle wrap people do with vans and sand cars . That looks really nice and not really expensive .

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 10:10 am 
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It only looks pretty once, get used to it! lol. Let the aluminum take its natural color cource and do not worry about it. You will have plenty of more important things to repair to keep it Wellsville worthy.

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Last edited by Odyknuck on Thu Jan 31, 2013 2:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 10:42 am 
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hpfreak wrote:
Odyknuck wrote:
The Main spring (bottom) should be the longer of the two and also have a stronger spring rate then the Tender (top). Typically you want to stay with in 100# of each other. As I recall both of the springs on those shocks were of the same rate. I suspect they were changed to accomadate the heavy V8 motor and may be to high of a spring rate for the Subie setup. The rates should be marked on springs.


this doesnt make any sense to me? from what i know of springs, the longer the spring (more coils) the softer the rate, shorter spring less coils=stiffer rate. im also confused about the position of the springs im not so sure it would mater which ones on top or bottom the softer one always gonna colapse first. im not saying your wrong as im sure you know more about springs than myself. but it just doesnt make sense.


Well, springs are wound with different diameter wire that gives you the pounds per inch compression rate for the coil length. Meaning you can have a 200# spring in any length avalable. The reason you want the longer spring on the bottom is two fold, 1) you want it to have 60% of the shock travel as it is the primary spring that is doing most of the work. 2) you want the shorter spring to use up its length quickly so a transfer to the main spring happens when you need it. The shorter lower spring/rate on top is for handling the small bumps in the terrain. Once it collaspes to the point of coil bind (bigger bumps) the transfer ring takes it out of the picture (if adjusted correctly) then your running on the primary spring. Now lets talk about how numbers work. Spring rate is calculated by this formula:
S1 X S2 divided by S1 + S2
Say for example both springs are rated for 200#. When both springs are in play then the calculated rate would be 100#. Once the top spring transfers the load to the bottom spring then the rate would be 200#. So its easy to say when both are the same rate you would simply divide them by 2.
Now lets complicate it with different rates. Top spring 100# and bottom spring 200# then the calculated rate would be 66.6# per inch of compression when both springs are in play. Once transfered to the bottom spring it is still 200# Simple enough. Hope that helps ya! :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2013 7:48 am 
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Here is some pictures of what she Looks like now , just need to get some extra time to finish her up and go ride !

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2013 7:51 am 
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2013 7:53 am 
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2013 10:23 am 
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When's the first test and tune wellsville beating???? :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2013 12:02 pm 
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Hey that looks just like the buggy at the top of the page DVS1s old buggy

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