What where the specs on your shocks? Can't seem to find it in all these pages lol

Fox 2.0 Emulsion with the 7/8 shafts 12 inch travel... (14" 2.5"X 250 and 12" 2.5X 150 lb spring rates (I think)...

You are correct I am being stupid

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

OK I put it on paper, and this is what I came up with for starters... I almost feel like this is to much... What do you guys think? I cant afford to do all at once... I only want what I need to get the motor to run... I can add other things after... but I may weld on the brackets I need so its ready to bolt up (if I can figure out what they are). I think I only need the alt light and oil light for starters... and the ignition switch... all the other things can bolt on after.

My laundry list: (anything out of order?)

Head Lights:
5 forward facing, 1 reward
Running Lights: Turn signal?
2 front, 2 rear
Third Brake Light:
1 rear upper roof

Switch Box:
Volt, Oil Temp, Oil Pressure - Alt light, Oil light - 4 sealed switches (running lights, head lights, rear spot light, 12 volt accessory)

Console:
Ignition switch, Battery Shutoff, 12 volt accessory

Junction box (rear area) - Lowes box and flexible electrical tubing
(box will be in a place I can open up if I need to replace a fuse)

Rebel 12 circuit deluxe bug fuse box...

I think you have the basics covered. Think about using a push button or momentary switch for the starter then you can get a simple on off key switch. This a personal choice as I have had issues with the auto parts store universal switches. Put in a spare toggle and you have a ready made bypass in the event of a failure and then you weekend or ride isn't ruined.

Since you are running a fuse box carry spares, and think about using a $4.00 universal relay for driving lights or anything with high amp draw. It it will prolong the life of your switches.

Lastly when you are hooking up your battery be sure to ground to the chassis and the to the transmission. That is if you don't want the throttle cable to become a ground.

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

What do you think about the toggle switches... Ones with led built in or no? I was thinking it might help if its dark to see the switch... But as you stated, I may be over complicating this...

I would do what you like and what the budget allows. I use marine grade switches but they are all made in china now days.

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

i use the sand sealed switches now, i think they are bugpack, cant remember ,b ut the cheap autozone switches are a no-no, for that matter probably any switch they sell! been there done that nothin like lookin up half buzzed in the dark and wondering why your switches are smokin"!! all i run is an oil light and an alt.light with ignition switch.. and i know everyone is goin to say i'm crazy and shake there head, BUT, i do not have a single fuse on my buggy everything hardwired by ME

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ANTI- antifreeze!!!!!!

Put in an order...


Description Quantity Price/Ea. Total
k4s17-431-07 K4 GREEN 3/4 INDICATOR WARNING LIGHT MOUNTS INTO 3/4 HOLE - ALT ENGRAVED FOR ALTERNATOR 1 $15.00 USD $15.00 USD
k4s17-430-05 K4 RED 3/4 INDICATOR WARNING LIGHT MOUNTS INTO 3/4 HOLE - OIL ENGRAVED FOR OIL PRESSURE 1 $16.00 USD $16.00 USD
k4s16-125blk BLUE SEA HEAVY DUTY BLACK BATTERY CUT OFF ISOLATOR SWITCH WITH REMOVEABLE KNOB FOR A SINGLE BATTERY 1 $36.00 USD $36.00 USD
k4s13-140 ON/OFF SAND SEALED TOGGLE SWITCH WITH L.E.D. RED TIP - SINGLE POLE 30AMP 4 $18.00 USD $72.00 USD
AC903100SEALED COLE HERSEE HEAVY DUTY 4 POSITION SAND SEALED WATER RESISTANT UNIVERSAL 6 WIRE IGNITION SWITCH 1 $35.00 USD

I need a few more things... My new goal is to get the motor running...
Need gas line... Electrical box and wire loom still.... I think I have the rest... Minus the other things like breather box and oil cooler and filter... But that shouldn't stop me from getting it to run.

Till I get the parts I need to grind my welds and paint the new bracing... Also need to put my floor plate back in and work on the mounts for the switch box and console....

Gotta be getting close... All this work and I can barely fit in the thing... That bothers me a bit... But I guess I could cut and weld some new stuff in the roof to make me fit later on...

I'm trying guys

Fuel line - some people may not agree but you need to buy a Viton based hose, the cheap Vato-Zone hose will disintegrate with ethanol mixed gasolines. I have seen this F up some great carbs.

The battery cut off will be great just drill a hole in the shut off handle and safety wire it to the frame so it doesn't fly away. Been there and seen it happen. even saw a buddy lose his at Wind Rock.

Diamond Dave- No fuses just means you know definitively where the problem is as the wire smokes into oblivion. You know the WC cars have to run fuses due to or sensitive electronics once you let the magic smoke out a ECU it is back to the Pull a part for a replacement

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

Where do I get the fuel line? Why do they allow the knob to come off anyway... I guess so you can turn it off and walk away so someone can't take it? I have a keyed ignition coming too... But agree with your comment I need to secure them somehow...

No buggy work today woke up feeling bad... Didn't shake it... I also rememberd .... Lol I don't have any gaskets on my motor... No exhaust or intake any way... I need to make them due to the match porting brothers did... The heads are way bigger than stock. I bought some and was hoping I could just make them bigger well the hole is larger than the whole gasket... So I bought gasket sheets... Just need to find them... I don't think I found anything for the exhaust... I need to pull the motor and check it over. Also my cross bar linkage is purple... I want to get it back to the aluminum color... So I need to strip the paint off and polish. Who knows what I have forgotten... I let myself get side tracked on the frame...

Hopefully the hex bar has paint on it. I f they powder coated it you will have to sand it and paint it the color you want it. For exhaust gaskets order the copper gaskets and just use a dremel to open up the hole.

You can get the gasket material at NAPA and put some grease on the intake manifold then set it on a piece of card board then cut out a template. Just a trick but you can use ammo casings for gasket cutters for you stud holes if you got any laying around.

The fuel line I run I bought from a hose and rubber dealer called Amazon Hose and Rubber. You can get the Vitton Hose at Summit or NAPA. Just be prepared it is not inexpensive but you do get what you pay for.

Feel better dude

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

i like the ammo casing idea for a transfer punch. as far as making the rest of the cuts just secure the material to your manifold and take a hammer and smack the edges al the way around makes an exact match gasket.

this video shows what im talking about

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If it ain't broke ill fix that

Potato, Patoto

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

Thanks guys... Haven't seen that before... Will try to put it to use... More to follow...

Getting closer...



Too dang cold to get any work done though

I also ordered one of these:


I have a oil pressure and oil temp gauge on the way... then its time to wire it all up... well all except lights... gotta figure out how to swing that one yet.

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LEGALIZE BLUEGRASS!!!

Save a tree... eat a Beaver

for lights I think I am going to get a light bar... any reasons why I shouldn't? Kist seems quick and easy...

specs below:
Input Voltage: 9-32V DC
With Cree High Power 5W LED
Color Temperature: 6000-6500K
Housing Material: Die-cast Aluminum
Lens Material: PC
Mounting Bracket: Zinc Alloy
Electrically Protected against RFI/EMC interference: No radio noise at all!


10in TLB1030 - 30w / 2400 lumens : Flood pattern - $115

30in TLB1090 - 90w / 7200 lumens : Combo spot/flood pattern - $260

40in TLB1120 - 120w / 9600 lumens : Combo spot/flood pattern - $350


I am going to get the 30 inch one...




If I do... I will post the install and show my results... Also he may be willing to do group buy or something like that if you guys are interested... I can ask anyway?

Hi myrddin,
I have been also thinking about a led light bar.
I know that Rigid e-series are about the best you can get. They are also probably the most money also.
Here's another option, I found this place yesterday.
There 20" has more lumens then the 30" that you are looking at.
I dont know how good they are.
Norm
http://www.jtkustoms.com/lights.html

Thanks Norm... I am not looking to break the bank on lights... I have read a lot and I see the Rigid lights are second to none... but I have also done a lot of research on these lights as well... They are nice and come with a 1 or 2 year warranty... plus the guy selling them is really cool and I can see his reputation as far as support and such... that goes a long way for me. He has many lights that one is a spot flood combo so it will give distance and close patterns of light... He also will send a amber lens with some lights that you can use if your in a dusty environment... I do not know anyone that runs one myself but have seen many people say they are nice... I may bite the bullet and get one and try it out... if its nice I know he has 6 inch ones as well, would like one for a rear spot light and also 3 inch lights that may work well for additional driving lights up front if needed (not sure you would need it with a bright light bar). I have my finger on the trigger to buy... I sent him another question asking how the double row led light compare to the single I am looking at... I think its like 100 or so more but unsure.. might have been 60 more but no switch or harness which is fine by me... I can wire up a relay and already have my own switch.


I will let you know, if interested I can see if he will cut you and I a deal if we order two at same time... I like a deal if I can find one.

Ya I cant afford the Rigid lights either.
I also understand about having good customer support.
btw, the link was not for rigid lights.
I was just giving you a different option.
Ask you buddy what he thinks about the specks on the lights from the link I sent you.
They seem pretty good to me but that doesn't mean anything.
Norm

Yeah I see what you mean.. that is a nice price... I guess its brighter due to dual row... this is what he offers that close to those.

specs:
9 - 32 V DC
Real Cree 3 watt LEDS
30,000 hr lifespan
IP 65 certified
aluminum extruded housing (black anodize coated)
currently spot pattern available. will have flood and combo patterns soon.
Over/Under voltage protection
cast aluminum mounting brackets
replacable lens with color options available ($10 extra) amber, yellow, ect.
hardwire only (no plug)
Dimensions are 3" light face x 3 1/2" deep
4 1/2 " tall with mounting bracket.
6" = 2880 lumen overall width= 10 5/8" $135 ea.
12"= 5760 lumen overall width= 16 5/8" $205 ea.
20"= 7200 lumen overall width= 24 1/2" $300 ea.
30"= 14,400 lumen overall width= 34 3/4" $420 ea
40"= 16,000 lumen overall width= 44 3/4" $540 ea
50"= 18,000 lumen overall width= 52 1/2" $690 ea

as you can see they cost more... I will see what he has to say... I think its the same light..
this is a pic of his:


thanks for the heads up!!

I do like the led light bars.
I wish I knew some body with one to see for my self.
Here's a link from a test down under. I haven't even heard of some of these lights.
You can see the difference in the light patterns for led's vs round offroad lights.
Or skip to page 20 to see there suggestion.
Man those led's do look like they put out a nice pattern.
And these guys are calling the Rigid brand "The Best Value" light
Norm
http://www.readbag.com/lightforce-au-im ... wd-161-lr2

Nice... I checked and that 30 inch light by J/T the Cree LED Light Bar, is longer (judging on the other site) so I couldn't fit it... and the 20 would be 10 inches short of filling the space across my roof. I am starting to lean back to the other light for the money it sounds interesting... single row only 2 1/3 tall by 30 inches...

My thought are I have exactly 30 inches across the top on the windshield hoop... I might be able to mount it in front and level with the roof line... or flush on top the roof...

I am still looking...

Check this guy out too. I have not bought any yet but my friend has and is very happy with product and service. Price look good too
http://www.330powersports.com/Products.html