I WAS WOUNDER WHAT WOULD HELP MY SINGLE SEAT BUGGY IT HAS NOTHING FROM 1000 TO 2000 RPMS IT HAS A STOCK 6RIB WITH A 2387 MOTOR W/35"BOGGERS AS LONG AS IT STAYS ABOVE 2GRAND IT WILL COME RIGHT UP BUT IF IT DROPS IT HAS NOTHING

You are geared pretty high for 35" tires with a 6rib.

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A5wGMaUMXUQ

thats a tall first gear in those and with 35's on i'd say you would be geared a little high.what cam are you running and what carb?chad

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NOW GAS IT!!!!!

My first thought is a lack of bottom end torque depending on what cam is in the engine. Thats a lot of tire diameter coupled with a 4.56 gear. 5.37 gear & 31's or 33's would probably cure that in most instances.

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i have a one seater with a 2332 with a 4.56 and it
has no problems with 35" boggers but they are on aluminum beadlocks

At low rpm's its all about torque. Cam selection, porting, carb selection, exhaust diameter all affect torque. A couple degrees advance on the cam can kill torque substantially. Heavy steel wheels & tires are rough to turn. I overcammed my 1915 & had no bottom end below 1500 but it screamed once you hit 1800 or so rpm.

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the engine has a 110 cam in it and 44 carbs. i was thinking it was geared to high but wasnt sure which was the best way to change lower 1st and second or change the r/p. im sure neither one would be cheap. im also running steel wheels would alum. make a big difference

1.25 ratio rocker arms would help low end torque, with that cam.

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A5wGMaUMXUQ

I was assuming you were way overcammed but WOW thats a small cam for that engine. Im thinking 1.4 rockers if they will work with that cam. Thats a good cam for a 1641 or 1776 max. You need .520 ++ lift & .300 ++ duration for that size engine to wake up. Aluminum wheels will reduce rotating mass as will cutting & grinding on the tires & make it feel like you have 25 more HP. I would swap rockers & wheels first & see what that does.

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1.4 rockers wont work on a 110 but the 1.25 rockers will

ive got buddies running that setup on everything from a 1915 to a 2500 and in between and they all like it and most are running 33 or 35 boggers with a 5 or 6 rib trans

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Just Stand On It!!!!

Chris

Give the 1.25 rockers a shot. I wasnt sure if 1.4 could be used on it. If your engine was apart I would say degree the cam but thats not an option. Between the cam, keyway & gears mfg. tolerances you could be advanced a couple degrees. I forget the exact quote but a builder in Hot VW said 2 degrees can kill something like 20 percent of torque.

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Going to 1.25 rockers will raise your lift to .490, you are now .430 lift.
Duration will be .284, and that is good.
You will be throughly amazed at the difference that will make.
Also get new pushrods that you will cut for correct length to get your rocker geometry correct, that also makes a big difference.
Adding lash caps might enable you to use your old pushrods, or at least be able recut them for correct geometry.

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A5wGMaUMXUQ

what kinda heads are you running?chad

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[quote="ridenrace6"]1.4 rockers wont work on a 110 but the 1.25 rockers will

1.4 will work if you have aftermarket heads if not you can get 1.3 ratio rockers and they will work with stock vw heads but the 110 is the best all around cam bar none do kentucky special on it 1.4 on the intakes and 1.25 on the exhaust

That eng shoud pull stumps . what carbs dual44 or single what compression ratio what heads what is the timing what jets I run a 2387 dual 44 6'' stacks 55ides 155 mains 0pump jet 195air 32* timing comp 10.5 50/50 race gas i no Chris & Koke run 2387

Im running that exact same set up in my motor. When I went from stock rockers to the 1.25 rocker I lost a little bottom end. I run 36 inch buckshots on a very heavy 2 seater and have no problems with bottom end or top end with a stock 4.56. That just dont make since having rhat problem on a one seater.

I have just finished cutting my boggers to the cord hoping to cut down on the rotating weight. As far as the motor goes iknow its a 2387 w/a110 cam and stock rockers but not really sure about the comp.ratio or the jets in the carbs. I have heard a few people talk about a zero pump jet and say its the only thing you should run but havent ever tried it would it be worth trying ? I was also woundering if iput 1.25 rockers should i pull the head to check the valve clearence or just hope for the best? As far as the heads go i know they have big valves and have had alot of porting and polishing done. I think that could be part of the problem but really not sure. Does any body have an idea of what it would cost to gear a 6rib down

Valve clearence will be fine .But you can pull the head and see & see what comp you have

Increasing valve lift generally increases low end torque, depending on heads.
Increasing duration builds more hp at high rpm, but kills the bottom end torque.
The last 5.42 ring&pinion I bought from weddle was around $360.

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A good friend will bail you out of jail. A best friend will be sitting next to you saying: "Damn that was fun!"



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A5wGMaUMXUQ

its hard to say whats wrong,but if you dont know whats inside your motor this doesnt help out either.i cant see putting this size motor together with stock rockers on big valve heads myself.but this maybe alot of your problem.the 110 cam is not your problem.most buggys ive been around that runs monster valves seems to perform better in the mid to higher rpm range.id pull the heads and see what i was running before you go adjusting gear ratios.it dont matter what gears you run if your wanting low end torque i would look at my motor.chad

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NOW GAS IT!!!!!

See what jet you have & timing 250$ for5.43 R/P + laber.Or about 1000 for 1-2 + laber & keep your 4.57 Beat gess on $. Call Drews or Chuck Jones or ? Where are you at Drews has a Dyno to tune engines

I have had the heads off of the motor but didnt think to check the valve size or comp ratio because it was on another buggy w/a 3rib and v treads and it had some bottom end power. When i went to the single seat i put the 6 rib and 35s on the buggy. I'll tiy to check the jets in the carbs this week. Is a 6rib much diferent on the inside than a 3rib?

i grew up in a machine shop i was all ways told big valves= high rpm, hp small valves=torque,mid range rpm and there is a fine line in the middle i ran a 1914 with stock heads vz15 cam counter weight crank stock fly wheel and a 5rib trans 35 boggers i could out climb my buddies buggy with a 2300 vw in it

i got a chance to check the jets in the carbs idle 65 tubes are f11 air jets 175 and mains are 135 w/a55 pump jet. also the reason i asked the difference in the 6 &3 rib internals is because I have fixed several 3 ribs but havent messed w/any 6ribs. I would be thankful for any advise on those.

If you can fix a 3 then you can a 6, just stack up the gear stacks and pay attention to the differences as you disassemble .

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A good friend will bail you out of jail. A best friend will be sitting next to you saying: "Damn that was fun!"



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A5wGMaUMXUQ