what do you guys use for floor pans, and where do you get it and how much does it cost.
i would really like to use some diamond plate aluminum. I have priced a 5x10 sheet at 2 different places for about $320., i know that sounds like a big piece, but i have 2 buggies to do. one i'd like to do pretty soon. the other can wait a while. but i figure it would be cheaper to buy enough to do both of them up front. But i'm cheap and I dont really want to drop $320 right now so what else can i use for a floor pan, i really dont want some little thin sheet metal to put in there.
or is there anywhere around NW bama that i can get the diamond plate aluminum cheaper. or even somewhere that would cut just what i need for a reasonable price?
The first frame already has tabs welded in so i need 4 different pieces. not just one big piece.
any ideas or suggestions?

I wouldn’t do separate pieces. Try to keep it one piece if possible. Mine has 5 pieces between the floor bars and the bars are taking a beating. If you keep it one piece it will act more like a skid plate and not catch every rock you slide over.

Very good point. only reason i was gonna do it the other way was because those tabs were already welded in... but i might consider grinding them off/out and do what you said, use one bigger piece.

If you do not want to spend a lot of money, Street Signs work fantastic.. They are light weight aluminum and still plenty strong to support the floor. However, you need to check with your county to see where you can pick-up old street signs.

My first buggy had a street sign I "found" on the side of the road that said "Bridge Out Ahead".. Just kidding.

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Micky Mouse you are the freaking man, i actually know the guy that is the "street sign guy" for my city.
have known him all my life, wow, that never crossed my mind but i'll have to look into that.

I have a floor made of expanded sheet metal. I believe most people call these "cheese graders". It sucks, don't use it.

You would think it would be easy to clean but it's not. The mud washes away and the leaves and rocks magically bond to the floor and you end up picking it all out by hand. Or you just say "F" it.

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Why do I hate everyone?...................because they deserve it

a thin aluminum works sheet with many tabs and fender washers,pedals mount on thick plate and can move,my cheap way,seats have angle iron under them.

Depends on the terrain where you ride.
Rocky and rough should probably have 1 piece floor like hillaholic suggested.

Where we ride it's mostly dirt and muddy terrain.
I like pieces cut to fit the chassis and a slight gap around the edges.
Makes it easier to clean out the mud when you hit it with a power washer.

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Gary

Turbo VW Sand Racer
Polaris Ranger



"If you don't run into the Devil every once in awhile, you must be going in the same direction!"

Davis Motorsports FaceBook Page

The area under my Kirkey seat (20" wide x 24" long) will have a 12 gauge steel plate welded (to protect my ass). The 2 1/2 feet behind my front beam will be flattened expanded steel (I look through my floor during a hillclimb when the wheels are off the ground to keep me on my line). From there back it will be one solid sheet of aluminum diamond plate all the way to the rear of the buggy. I lowered my floor 2 inches at the rear to slick bottom mine. The aluminum will be held on with these cool carriage bolts that have a 2" flat washer for a head.

One question....What thickness aluminum plate for Wellsville? I was planning to use 1/8"

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I just got a 4' x 10' sheet of .100 aluminum for my woods buggy for $160. My race buggy has a .060 thick or should I say thin floor and thats WAY to thin for the woods.

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Maybe you should chug on over to mamby pamby land....

HEY MAN. YOU MAY WANT TO CHECK YOUR LOCAL SALVAGE OR RECYCLING YARD FOR SOME ALUMINUM DIAMOND PLATE. I WAS ABLE TO PICK UP A PIECE OF THREE SIXTEENTH TO USE FOR MY ENGINE TRANS. SKID PLATE FOR $.30 A POUND. STREET SIGNS ALSO WORK WELL. I BOUGHT A 4X8 SHEET OF ONE EIGHTH POLISHED DIAMOND PLATE IN JULY. IT WAS 263.00.

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Don't sweat the petty stuff, pet the sweaty stuff.

Star Supply in Youngstown has 4x8 sheets of 1/8" aluminum diamond plate for 200 bucks. Im getting mine from American Metals in Cincy for 130 bucks. Thats the cheapest I can find it for.

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for a buck thirty a sheet, is that polished?

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Don't sweat the petty stuff, pet the sweaty stuff.

thats pretty dang cheap how far from medina area are you?

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Theirs no replacement for displacement !

I live about an hour from you. If you need me to pick something up give me a call. Ill be awake till tomorrow night. The weather may delay my steel pickup till next week. I can meet you in Summits parking lot to save you a trip. 330-307-6368 Keith

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ok it may just be a brain fart but im confused

so what are the recomendations 3/16, 1/8, .060, .100 or what and where does each thickness go as in engine/tranny skidd, under the seat, under the main floor in front of seats, and does anybody leave the front open?

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Just Stand On It!!!!

Chris

My opinion....leaving the front open will give an opening for rocks & tree stumps & roots to jam into & hang you up. 1/8" aluminum will take a pounding without adding too much weight. I personally want at least 1/8" steel under my seat. My Kirkey bolts to the floor & isnt very thick. Even 1/8" aluminum will puncture & frankly one hole in my rear is plenty. If you run poly seats its not as big an issue.

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The front is open on mine, lets alot of mud and water hit you on a cold rainy day. It will be closed off by spring. I also agree with turbo, a solid piece is a better skid plate, but cleaning sucks. It would be nice to have drain holes if you are going to use a solid piece.

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[url=http://www.TickerFactory.com/]

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If anybody was wondering the aluminum diamond plate from American Metals in Cincy is polished & the price was $129.24 I think. BTW they have an outlet in Louisville for you KY. boys. Google them

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1/8th alum all the way ....25 years no problem...want to see what it looks like http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XY85S51QZbo

What broke on the right rear?

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