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PostPosted: Tue Feb 17, 2009 4:05 pm 
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Location: Girard, Ohio
I have learned a lot over the years & am going to incorporate the best ideas into my soon to be started from scratch rail. The only thing that I have limited results with is front suspension design. I want to stick with a beam based frontend for strength. Is wider better or stock width? Stock length arms or extended? Ill be running steel spindle mount wheels but do I run a tall tire or stick with the 4.0 3rib that I run now? I want to keep the center of gravity low & am affraid too much frontend height will screw up the balance but I am sick of digging the front into the high center between the ruts & either getting stuck or losing momentum. Which way do I go??

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 17, 2009 4:44 pm 
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Location: Zanesville, OH
2 1/4 x 1 front arms with +3 combo spindles. nice travel and nice 3 inch lift in the front. I like to keep small tires so your not fighting the wheel, but still get good clearance. this is what i will be running on the new rail. costly though around 900 for arms, spindles, and pins/shims. tough offroad part though also tough to break.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 17, 2009 9:41 pm 
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The bigger the front tire the smaller the bumps, ruts and ledges.
The wider the beam the more potential for wheel travel you have with rack & pinion.
The longer the arms and 3" drop spindles make a big difference.
I'm running 2 1/2" x 1" arms, 3" drop. 11' wheel travel , 3" droop, stock width beam. 5.00X15 Goodyears (which suck) and coil-overs. If I had a wider beam I could have more travel.
I have no problems with stability, other than the nut behind the wheel.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 17, 2009 11:10 pm 
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Location: chewton pa 16157
i have a stock balljoint front end i rolled it back some to sit higher and put a set of tires on with higher sidewalls i have not run these tires yet but i can clear a 5 gallon plaster bucket under my frame bigger tires can make rubbing the frame a downside while turning left or right but with the widened beam it wont be a problem i have about 15 -17 inch ground clearence in front and back


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 17, 2009 11:21 pm 
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i just got the third one down on the list and love it i get the height i need with a soft ride and no fab work involved

http://www.dansperformanceparts.com/bug ... 0front.htm

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2009 6:27 pm 
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Does anyone have any ideas on how to make a beam frontend air adjustable on the fly?? I was thinking air or nitrogen shocks hooked to an air supply to adjust for conditions. I like the idea of airing up to clear obsticles & airing down for a steep hillclimb to lower the fronts center of gravity.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2009 6:55 pm 
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Cut out the center spring stays make something like an adjustable beam would have and hook it to an air cylinder.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2009 3:16 am 
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I'm a big fan of taller front tires. Less rolling resistance is HUGE in any form of motorsports. They don't have to be wider, just taller. I haven't found a big difference in force it takes to turn the steering wheel. You do loose on your turning radius, but that's what the cutter brakes are for.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2009 10:46 am 
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I think there is a huge difference in force required to turn with bigger tires, actually its damn near a fact haha. You can turn my 5.00X15 3 ribs with one finger on the wheel. Now with some larger old military heep style tires the wheel would like to rip your arm off. Getting the lift from the spindle still allows the smaller tire and get clearance. Now if you go power steering by all means run some 42's on the front :)

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2009 11:11 am 
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MadMike wrote:
The bigger the front tire the smaller the bumps, ruts and ledges.
The wider the beam the more potential for wheel travel you have with rack & pinion.
The longer the arms and 3" drop spindles make a big difference.
I'm running 2 1/2" x 1" arms, 3" drop. 11' wheel travel , 3" droop, stock width beam. 5.00X15 Goodyears (which suck) and coil-overs. If I had a wider beam I could have more travel.
I have no problems with stability, other than the nut behind the wheel.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 21, 2009 10:28 pm 
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Run power steering and you can always turn it with one finger..

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 22, 2009 12:05 am 
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I ordered 2 new 6.70-15LT Traction Implement fronts for mine this week, 28" in dia. That should smooth things out some

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