Has anyone seen these or tried them? It's a new twist on an old drag racing trick. You can read the whole thread on pirate, but in the end I believe the approval rating is pretty high. (14 pages w/ alot of good info, I recommend reading ALL of it) I can do both rear wheels, inner and outer beads for less than $30 and a sunday afternoon. Gotta love something cheap that works! The 4x4 guys are using these and airing down to 1-2 psi without problems.

http://www.inchwormgear.com/store/index.php?cPath=34

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=340906

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I dont know anyone who has done that and I considered it my self. After carefull consideration I decided it would be better to use standard bead locks that clamped the tire. My logic is that when you do get a flat I dont think the screws will hold up nearly as well as a clamp type beadlock. They will end up ripping the tire. Give it a try and let us know, what the hell its only a $500.00 test!

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Water cooled Dry Sumped Subaru Powered Turbo Charged Fuel Injected 2500CC Tank. Oh Rah! He who dies with the most Toys not only wins, He also wears them out!

$500... Ha! You haven't seen my tires!!

Of course it's better to use standard beadlocks, but where's the fun in that??

Seriously though, if you read through that thread, there are claims of people riding on sidewall cut flats for miles, up to speeds of 30mph without damage. I really think it depends on the sidewall stiffness. This is on heavy ass trucks too, so...

Looks good if it works, costly experiment if it doesn't

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The tires on the back of my chaindrive are poor boy beadlocked and it works great. Dragracers have done it for years. They sell a kit in jegs and summit books. There grade 8 rim screws not just a selftaper.

Did you install your screws horizontal into the bead, like the drag racers? Or did you put them in vertical behind the bead, like it's shown in the picture? They recommend that you drive them in just catching the bead but not into the core of it. This locks the bead in place and also prevents spinning.

Good point about the self tappers. The screws sold here http://www.inchwormgear.com/store/index.php?cPath=34 are not the everyday sheet metal self tappers. They are grade 8, fine thread, 3/4" (i think) so they don't stick up any higher than the bead itself. They're supposedly hard to find in small quantities. I would imagine the Jeg's rim screws would work just as well but need to be pre-drilled?

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the last set i seen came with a drill bitt that had a stop on it so u couldnt go to deep and they work great,the yellow buggy that is in some of wilborns videos has had them fo years,if he has to take the tires off he jus puts a little blue silicon on the screw jus to be safe from leaking

Y'all are about to talk me into it...

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I have seen that used before. It will work fine. Put them in like it says and you will have no problem.
Thanks for the poor boy solution to a problem we all have. Keep us updated on your project.
Thanks
Dean

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It's amazing what you can accomplish when you don't care who gets the credit.-
Harry S. Truman

summits part number for rim screws sum-g1495 set of 35 screws 11.95 also u can get an aluminum template for a 15" wheel for 17.95 sum-g1497 is the part #

Just an update...
Top pic shows the screws from Inchworm
Second pic shows the screws from Summit
I believe the fine thread screws would be better at sealing the holes from leaks, still using silicone. Also doesn't need pre-drilled. Making a jig for this is easy.
Last pic shows the recommended way to install these, is this how y'all have seen it done?

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i would go with summit and order the template and put them on the outside,i never seen them inside the rim like the pic

I appreciate the input...

If and when I decide to do this, I'll be installing the screws like in the pic. If anyone is interested, read through that entire thread on Pirate4x4 for the details. There's alot of info and first hand experience with this mod.

Putting the screws in vertically puts them in shear and they have a 2000lb shear strength each. When horizontal, there's the possibility of ripping the bead off the screw when you take a big sideways hit. It's just screwed into rubber, not really taking advantage of the strength of the screw. Summit's screws are designed for drag racers to eliminate the wheel spinning inside the tire, which puts the screws in shear...

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To clarify,
By vertically I mean like in the drawng
By horizontal I mean like the Summit way

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Put it this way I took a set of brand new 44" swamper and a new set of rims and put the screws in horizontal. Knock on wood but no problems so far. I did this four years ago`. My little buggy had the same thing they ran that way too. also I run tubes in all my tires always have.

Hmmmm...
Ya know, I didn't think about running them with tubes. That would be really hard to do with the screws in vertical. Horizontally, the tube itself would push out on the tire, the screws would keep from ripping the valve stem. I'm starting to like that better especially since I'm sure there's less leaking around the screws that way. Thanks for the moment of clarity.

Dang it

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Did you do the inside bead too?

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Yes Sir. I think there is 20 screw per wheel. Hope that helps.