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 Post subject: New Garage
PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2015 9:17 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2008 7:12 am
Posts: 215
Location: F***** PA
Well,
I would like to throw this out to the guys that have built a garage, not the one with deep pockets or the one your brother in-law built with deep pockets. This is kinda my dream garage or my first real garage. Mind you I was not born with a silver spoon in my mouth, so I don't want to come off as that. I am very humble and thankful for the opportunities that I have been given.

With that sentiment over with. Like most of us I have shampane (sp) taste and beer money. I can spell beer. We just sold our bi-level and are upgrading a bit and I have been given a budget of about $10 g's on a new garage.
I might be able to squeeze a little more out maybe 14-15 g's. I am around a month away from saying yes I want/need that... (closing of new house).

The dream garage size would be a 30x40 on a concrete radiant heated floor.$$$$$$$ about 30-35 g's

AND TIME TO COME BACK TO REALITY.....

I have to keep it under 1000 sq ft to keep the taxes down and COST. so I was looking into 30x33 (990sgft).
I was looking at having a pole barn being installed on a 4" slab, I have a couple quotes for about $16g's.

Now after speaking to a friend who has his own wood working setup (the dude builds stuff with wood) (cabinets, tables, chairs... Said I should do a 6" slab and stick build it with my friends. I am really trying to keep the cost down so that I can build/have built something that I will be satisfied with for the next 20-30 years AND upgrade as I go I.E. windows, permanent heat and a/c, elec and air psi.
If I go with the Pole Barn I would contract that out, if I do the stick built I would do my buggy bud thing.

Has anyone ever did the buggy bud garage build and survived it or been part of it? How fun/miserable were you?
Also whats your thought on the whole thing, I know I left some stuff out but fire away.
AAAAH forget a I said Fire, I read the one topic about garage fires on here....
thx in advance.
Jim

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 Post subject: Re: New Garage
PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2015 10:29 am 
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Location: Northwest Indiana
Most important rule.... It will always be too small... if you think you need a 30x40 then you actually need twice that, you just don't know it yet.

The materials (minus concrete and doors for the 40x45 pole barn we are starting on was about 6k from Menards.

Pole barn is same as stick built just with half as many sticks as stick built. My dad and I did our whole first pole barn with just the two of us and a skid steer.

Warning! Unless you pay TOP DOLLAR. Most builders will half ass a pole barn. 2 of my buddies have gone that route and said they would have done it themselves if they would have known the quality of work they were getting.


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 Post subject: Re: New Garage
PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2015 10:31 am 
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Joined: Sat May 29, 2010 12:20 pm
Posts: 465
Location: Northwest Indiana
13 years ago we built our 40x80 with a 4" floor. Still no cracks.

When we built that barn it cost us about 22k for everything. A builder quoted us double that to build it...


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 Post subject: Re: New Garage
PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2015 10:37 am 
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Joined: Thu Sep 25, 2014 5:05 am
Posts: 163
Location: Pittsburgh,Pa.
I am doubting that "pole barns" are recommended.
Yes, new pole barns are erected every day, but
a workshop should be something more than just
a storage area.
Your workshop should have all of the features of
any manufacturing facility (eventually):
1) high ceilings.
2) concrete floor with drain(s) and floor anchor pots.
3) front and rear, high and wide insulated door(s)
and remote-controlled power skylights to vent
welding fumes when needed. They should shut
automatically when it rains .
4) 220electric, air, water, toilet, cable, phone, security,
HVAC, smoke and CO detectors, gas, etc.
5) workbenches and loft storage.
6) car lift.
The building foundation should be:
1) poured footer below frost line with french drainage
inside and outside of the walls.
2) below frost line downspout drainage.
3) floor drain(s).
4) thick poured concrete floor with fluid heat on top
of compacted aggregate covered with vapor barrier.
5) Knee concrete block wall, prefabbed or poured walls
(depending on your geographic proximity to a
concrete plant).
6) If wood walls are mounted to a knee wall, they should
2X6 insulated on 16" cntrs. and bolted to the knee walls.
7) After lots of outlets are installed, use 5/8" "X" board
drywall minimum.
8 ) Follow ALL building codes.
9) Don't listen to just one single person about any of this.
10) A walk through truss system or stick roof adds lots more
storage. I have a 7-12 pitch which is the steepest pitch
I would EVER want to shingle ever again, but I can almost
stand up in my loft. Local codes dictate how high your
building can be.


Last edited by jimp on Tue Sep 08, 2015 8:14 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: New Garage
PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2015 11:09 am 
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Joined: Sun Feb 19, 2012 5:33 pm
Posts: 286
Location: portage county ohio
lngtrvl2332 wrote:
13 years ago we built our 40x80 with a 4" floor. Still no cracks.

When we built that barn it cost us about 22k for everything. A builder quoted us double that to build it...



I've done a lot of concrete for work, and 4" is ok only if all the prep and soil is ok, its best if you have gravel under it and put wire in it. Its also very important to use the right mixed and put it down right. and if the space is not heated and you get moisture under it can lift and go to shit. I would recommend 6", at 33 x 30 a 4" slab is about 12.5 yards of concrete and a 6" is about 18 yards, at 90 bucks a yard its ain't Mutch more in the big picture of what your spending. The prep will be about the same amount of work either way.

As for heated floors, the pex to put in is reasonable and you could put it in and hook it up down the road, once ur floors are in you would not wanna tear them out and add it.

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 Post subject: Re: New Garage
PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2015 11:13 am 
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Joined: Sat May 29, 2010 12:20 pm
Posts: 465
Location: Northwest Indiana
I was gonna add soil is important. We are on hard clay with a good stone base and we dont own anything really heavy. I would also say go thicker just do even a small area with pex for radiant like cush said. I couldn't talk my dad into it at the time we built. Warm feet build lots more buggies than cold ones.


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 Post subject: Re: New Garage
PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2015 12:17 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 12, 2011 7:16 pm
Posts: 711
Location: hayden, al
Im in the middle of building a shop myself.. its all old pasture land and about half is grown up 20 year pines. I picked the highest spot which was the crest of an old terrace on the edge of the pines, i cleared it and cut it down level. Water shouldnt be an issue as it should flow away on all sides. Im gonna dig a 2' w x 1' deep footer and 4" gravel under the slab w/ 4 or 5" fibercrete and wire... should be there till the cows come home. Will be 60w x 40 deep and have about 120 x 80 leveled off. Ill try to post pics 8)

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 Post subject: Re: New Garage
PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2015 12:32 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 14, 2014 7:51 pm
Posts: 21
Location: Galveston county texas
Just remember that the more you do yourself the more money you have to put into other upgrades. My dad and I built my 30x40 shop about 12 years ago. We did the dirt work for the slab and built all the forms and put the steel in ourselves and got a few south of the border workers to pour and finish the slab with us paying for the concrete. Used sheet metal skin and roof from a few buildings we demoed at work. The most expensive purchase other than the concrete were the 3 30 ftx12in steel beams to support the roof. Total cost came in at just under 7k. And believe it or not but even with the used material and being super low budget this building is strong as hell. The eye of Hurricane Ike went right over my property here and the only damage that was done was water damage from the 56in of salt water from the storm surge.


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 Post subject: Re: New Garage
PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2015 1:15 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2008 7:12 am
Posts: 215
Location: F***** PA
lngtrvl2332 wrote:
Most important rule.... It will always be too small... if you think you need a 30x40 then you actually need twice that, you just don't know it yet.
Though I am coming from a Bi-Level, I have a car and a half now... Anything more than that is a blessing, now I do feel that a 24x24 is way to small for what I have and the 30x33 I will grow into....

Pole barn is same as stick built just with half as many sticks as stick built. My dad and I did our whole first pole barn with just the two of us and a skid steer.
Here in PA when you search Pole Barn, they do have less sticks but the poles are buried in the ground/concrete, where stick is built ontop.

Warning! Unless you pay TOP DOLLAR. Most builders will half ass a pole barn. 2 of my buddies have gone that route and said they would have done it themselves if they would have known the quality of work they were getting.

I have looked at several in the area and spoke to people that have them and have the quotes from the ones I have saw.



jimp wrote:
I am doubting that "pole barns" are recommended.


Yes, new pole barns are erected every day, but
a workshop should be something more than just
a storage area.
Your workshop should have all of the features of
any manufacturing facility (eventually):
1) high ceilings.
2) concrete floor with drain(s).
3) front and rear, high and wide insulated door(s)
and remote-controlled power skylights to vent
welding fumes when needed. They should shut
automatically when it rains .
4) 220electric, air, water, toilet, cable, phone, security,
HVAC, smoke and CO detectors, gas, etc.
5) workbenches and loft storage.
6) car lift.
The building foundation should be:
1) poured footer below frost line with french drainage
inside and outside of the walls.
2) below frost line downspout drainage.
3) floor drain(s).
4) thick poured concrete floor with fluid heat on top
of compacted aggregate covered with vapor barrier.
5) Knee concrete block wall, prefabbed or poured walls
(depending on your geographic proximity to a
concrete plant).
6) If wood walls are mounted to a knee wall, they should
2X6 insulated on 16" cntrs. and bolted to the knee walls.
7) After lots of outlets are installed, use 5/8" "X" board
drywall minimum.
8 ) Follow ALL building codes.
9) Don't listen to just one single person about any of this.
10) A walk through truss system or stick roof adds lots more
storage. I have a 7-12 pitch which is the steepest pitch
I would EVER want to shingle ever again, but I can almost
stand up in my loft. Local codes dictate how high your
building can be.
and I have a quote from them.
Jimp... Thanks but I would have to cut about 95% of those luxuries out. Albeit, great upgrades just don't have that kind of money.

I would have to agree with you cush53...
6" slab with pex in it for later. $500 from 4"-6".

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 Post subject: Re: New Garage
PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2015 1:46 pm 
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Posts: 2226
Location: Boone County West (BY GOD) Virginia
http://www.hardlinecrawlers.com/forums/ ... ic=17593.0
Some good info here. Chad :mrgreen:

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 Post subject: Re: New Garage
PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2015 6:01 am 
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Joined: Thu Sep 25, 2014 5:05 am
Posts: 163
Location: Pittsburgh,Pa.
gasman wrote:
http://www.hardlinecrawlers.com/forums/index.php?topic=17593.0
Some good info here. Chad :mrgreen:


Thanks for the link!
To state the obvious:
Big comfortable "garage" equals jobs getting done,
especially during the "off season". I wasted too
many summer riding days working on the buggy or
car or truck because I did not do maintenance during
the off season.
Once your "garage" is usable and all of your vehicle
maintenance is done, you now start to do upgrades
during the off season.
Buggy upgrades are almost never ending. In the
"off season" every good mechanic should consider:

1) pulling all wheels and clean and pack bearings.
2) clean and inspect brake components and pads.
3) check for cracks in tubing. This includes grinding
away paint from joints.
4) Freshen up the engine if the compression goes
down in one or more cylinders.
5) Change ALL fluids. Water gets into ALL fluids and
ruins the fluid, even if the moisture has left.
6) Weld in additional gussets, brackets and accessories
that were missed on the last build.
7) Consider adding other accessories such as CB radio,
helmet cooling system, lighting, flag, dry sump
system, fiberglass body, new safety belts, power
steering, winch, roof, new shifter linkage, better
wheels and tires, etc.

Everything that you "fix" in the off season is one more
thing less likely to go wrong during the riding season.
Once you have a machine that rarely breaks, then you
will have more time to work on your riding buddy's
machine :-)


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 Post subject: Re: New Garage
PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 10:49 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 29, 2010 12:20 pm
Posts: 465
Location: Northwest Indiana
Here is one I just put some sounds in for someone... Might get it done... 8-)

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