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| FYI for anyone going watercooled... http://www.woodsbuggy.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=17821 |
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| Author: | milt101 [ Wed Oct 07, 2015 10:44 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: FYI for anyone going watercooled... |
you could always try BBB, they sometimes are all it takes to get things rolling... even if they arent members, it will reflect on the website. |
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| Author: | Go Big Or Go Home [ Thu Oct 08, 2015 8:28 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: FYI for anyone going watercooled... |
I still have the motor and I have it dialed in now. I ended up having to take it to another shop to have it tuned. They agreed to give me a refund for the bad fuel pump they sent me, the retune, the plenum that grenaded and the other stuff that resulted bit I have been told twice that the check was in the mail and I am guessing I will never get it. And just for the record I would have been fine with them retuning, sending me a new pump and etc but when I can't get a hold of them and get it resolved over a period of months I searched for an alternate option so I could actually ride this season. It is stupid that I was even in the situation. After spending several thousand dollars I would expect a call back within 24 hours not 24 days of at this point we are working on 24 weeks. I agree that it is a shame. The concept of what they were offering was great. Their billet products and harness are great but their customer service and attention to detail is non existent. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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| Author: | 2800passat [ Thu Oct 08, 2015 10:06 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: FYI for anyone going watercooled... |
Y'all quit turning everything into a science. Take the motor out of the car and follow the schematics. After it runs like a scalded dog, THEN you will suck up the glory on your build. DAM sending off crap to California or Ohio to do your math. Paper, pencil, math= glory. Damit, use your brain cell! You get the biggest high when it is all YOU! ooooh look at me..... I spent $$$$$ to get my shit right cuz I'm not all that. |
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| Author: | stevie [ Thu Oct 08, 2015 10:28 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: FYI for anyone going watercooled... |
Alphafab has been returning my emails pretty promptly lately and being helpful, I know that doesn't help you but he's making an effort |
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| Author: | stevie [ Sun Oct 11, 2015 9:04 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: FYI for anyone going watercooled... |
Here's an update on mine I went for a ride today and it started out the same... chuggy, vibrating, slow and backfiring Then all of sudden while cruising at 55mph, it just took off like somebody flipped a switch... running smooth, pulling hard and no backfire I've had it out three more times today and it's still running great I have no idea what happened but it's like riding my motocross bike, any amount of throttle breaks the tires loose and you better be hangin on lol 
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| Author: | lngtrvl2332 [ Sun Oct 11, 2015 9:09 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: FYI for anyone going watercooled... |
Maybe your ecu finally made the free switch to Windows 10... 
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| Author: | stevie [ Sun Oct 11, 2015 10:04 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: FYI for anyone going watercooled... |
lngtrvl2332 wrote: Maybe your ecu finally made the free switch to Windows 10... lmao  Maybe it's because I've been leaving the battery disconnected during the install and it has to learn each time? I've only run it a couple minutes each time |
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| Author: | helmetguy [ Mon Oct 12, 2015 7:56 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: FYI for anyone going watercooled... |
Do you it could have been a fuel pressure or clogged fuel filter issue?? Just thinking, it would be nice to know for sure Sent from my SCH-I545L using Tapatalk |
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| Author: | 2800passat [ Mon Oct 12, 2015 11:24 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: FYI for anyone going watercooled... |
use your OBD2 test port. just a wild guess. Maybe your throttle position control or an intake leak between it and maf . Fuel pressure gauges are nice to check for weak pumps and fuel pressure regulators. Maybe you have to get over 50 mph to have enough vacuum to work the fuel press regulator. Do you have black smoke b4 it clears out? Also, check cam pos. sensor. These magnetic pick-up type sensors can have metal particles on them and play games with their signals to the compt. My crank pos. sensor had metal and it took 30 secs to remove wipe off and go. Spark plugs foul if your O2's ain't right, after about a dozen rides. Continuity checks on each wire to compt is nice. Same with ohm checks on sensors and plug wires. Stretched timing chains have terrible acceleration and misfires. |
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| Author: | helmetguy [ Mon Oct 12, 2015 12:15 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: FYI for anyone going watercooled... |
Passatt I think you have don't all !!! From steam engines to obd2!!!! Good for you man!!!! Sent from my SCH-I545L using Tapatalk |
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| Author: | stevie [ Mon Oct 12, 2015 12:22 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: FYI for anyone going watercooled... |
2800passat wrote: use your OBD2 test port. just a wild guess. Maybe your throttle position control or an intake leak between it and maf . Fuel pressure gauges are nice to check for weak pumps and fuel pressure regulators. Maybe you have to get over 50 mph to have enough vacuum to work the fuel press regulator. Do you have black smoke b4 it clears out? Also, check cam pos. sensor. These magnetic pick-up type sensors can have metal particles on them and play games with their signals to the compt. My crank pos. sensor had metal and it took 30 secs to remove wipe off and go. Spark plugs foul if your O2's ain't right, after about a dozen rides. Continuity checks on each wire to compt is nice. Same with ohm checks on sensors and plug wires. Stretched timing chains have terrible acceleration and misfires. It's not throwing any codes Fuel pressure is right 58lbs I'm going to check the plugs, if they look like everything else on this motor maybe they were all gunked up I think this motor has been sitting for a long time, maybe it took a few minutes for it to clean out |
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| Author: | Go Big Or Go Home [ Mon Oct 12, 2015 12:33 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: FYI for anyone going watercooled... |
I know my initial fuel pump would run 58 psi no problem but when you took it for a drive it and stood on it it would drop to 25psi or less. Didn't figure that out until we put a remote pressure gauge off the fuel rail. |
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| Author: | 2800passat [ Mon Oct 12, 2015 4:52 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: FYI for anyone going watercooled... |
When you open the throttle, the vacuum in the manifold drops low and the vacuum operated fuel regulator opens with less vacuum to let more fuel in. At 50 mph , I can see where the manifold pressure would be back up and there fore lean the fuel just rite. |
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| Author: | stevie [ Mon Oct 12, 2015 5:12 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: FYI for anyone going watercooled... |
2800passat wrote: When you open the throttle, the vacuum in the manifold drops low and the vacuum operated fuel regulator opens with less vacuum to let more fuel in. At 50 mph , I can see where the manifold pressure would be back up and there fore lean the fuel just rite. I plugged the vacuum on the plenum and ran the regulator vacuum port open as suggested by the regulator manufacturer areomotive should i run a vacuum line to it instead? it's running perfect at all rpms right now |
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| Author: | helmetguy [ Mon Oct 12, 2015 6:58 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: FYI for anyone going watercooled... |
My 2.0 has a vacuum line running to the regulator Sent from my SCH-I545L using Tapatalk |
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| Author: | bluebuggy [ Mon Oct 12, 2015 10:17 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: FYI for anyone going watercooled... |
Just turbo and sc need vacuum to up the psi to overcome the boost. Not needed on n/a motor. |
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| Author: | 2800passat [ Mon Oct 12, 2015 10:57 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: FYI for anyone going watercooled... |
Assuming the smog pump is thrown in the trash and vacuum is blocked off which is good. You can trick sensors and gadgets, but your power has issues , response, fuel savings, plug longevity, etc. Situations make you learn. So says the Bible. I'm guessing a vacuum leak fooling your regulator or a bad regulator. The same vacuum hose to the reg. also sucks the smog pump switch. Plug wires are always the 1st to check b4 any diagnosis. A bad fuel injector has the identical symptoms as a bad plug wire. Sometimes you can tap on one and free it up temporarily. Cleaner additives will not work if one is too far gone because they have to have circulation to get the cleaner thru. Regulators do not show up on vag com tests. Maybe, if you get an over rich o2 code. Remember, I am not King dingaling go-to guru. I'm just chiming in with my guesses. Go to pull a part and put a regulator in your pocket. |
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| Author: | jimp [ Tue Oct 13, 2015 6:54 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: FYI for anyone going watercooled... |
Having worked on fuel injection for many years, I can tell you that the basics still rule: 1) NEVER weld on a fuel injection machine. The results can be a lifetime of ghosts in the machinery. 2) Good electrical connections are a MUST! Solder all crimp connections and protect with HST (heat shrink tubing). Fuse connections must be pristine. Battery ground must go to chassis and a separate ground to the engine case. 3) Use the correct compound on oxygen sensor threads. 4) Check cylinder compression. 5) Keep all seals fresh. This especially includes valve cover gaskets. Crankcase vacuum is critical. 6) If no OBD (on board diagnostics) codes, use a quality software tuner. Keep a baseline library of graphs, especially the dyno results. You will want to know if your spark advance curve is causing other problems such as high exhaust temps and/ or pinging. Ping sensors are OK, but not the do all to end all. You still need to if detonation is a problem because of how many things can cause it. Fuel, plugs, compression, water-injection, etc. 7) Find a dyno tuner that will share information with you. You will have to pay him extra money in some cases, but sometimes he will share a world of knowledge with you, including software;-) |
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| Author: | PhillipM [ Tue Oct 13, 2015 3:48 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: FYI for anyone going watercooled... |
1) Welding isn't an issue, just pull the earth off the battery. 2) A properly done crimp is much better than a solder for high-vibration use. Don't solder anything that you can crimp instead unless it's just to seal an open end. And use leaded solder. |
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| Author: | 2800passat [ Tue Oct 13, 2015 9:49 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: FYI for anyone going watercooled... |
I agree . Here is how solder works. If it has a hair line crack, every thing still works great. But the next time you ride, it cooled and the crack opens and there is no connection. That is why aircraft keep everything running with avionics with circuit boards, when they pull into a terminal. |
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| Author: | jimp [ Tue Oct 13, 2015 11:08 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: FYI for anyone going watercooled... |
http://www.nspa.com/sealedcrimpandsolder.html For any signal connection ( data, sensor, analog, voltage, serial, digital, etc.) , especially for automotive, please consider: Crimp, then solder, then seal it! All three! I have seen crimp connections fail way too often. I have seen solder fail even more often. I rarely see sealed connections fail. Many people may not realize how important it is to clamp down on wires. A wire that bounces around puts tremendous stress and strain on copper wire. This cold working helps promote corrosion and eventual failure of any type of termination or junction. |
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| Author: | lngtrvl2332 [ Wed Oct 14, 2015 9:19 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: FYI for anyone going watercooled... |
Solder is alot like weld... Anyone can get two wires to stick together, but the patience and eye for a proper solder joint takes some practice. Especially on heavier wires. I used to sell one of the loudest subwoofers made. It came with 3 ft leads of speaker wire coming out of the speaker and that was it. No fancy push terminals or spade lug terminals. We asked them why and they said the same as Passat and Phillip. Way too much vibration for solder. They said it can also add resistance if the solder joint isn't good. |
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| Author: | PhillipM [ Wed Oct 14, 2015 11:07 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: FYI for anyone going watercooled... |
Yep, crimp the wire, and take the stress/strain on the insulation, not the core, and you'll be happy for a long time. |
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| Author: | stevie [ Tue Nov 10, 2015 9:59 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: FYI for anyone going watercooled... |
So.... Go Big Or Go Home Did you ever get what you were promised from Shawn? I was promised gaskets a main seal to replace the ones that are leaking oil all over my car and garage but never got them. Sent a couple messages to Shawn and he's says thy're coming but it's been weeks and I have to figure it's just lies Someone saw my car at Glamis and wants to do the conversion. They saw the Alpha Fab sticker on the motor and asked if I'd recommend them, sadly I had to say no... spend a little more money and get support In other news, I added some more tubes and support to the cage, had to raise the torsions a notch to support the extra weight of the motor  Spent Halloween weekend at Glamis blasting up and down Oldsmobile hill. Ecotecs Rock! 
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| Author: | Go Big Or Go Home [ Tue Nov 10, 2015 10:14 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: FYI for anyone going watercooled... |
Negative. I got a reply to my last message... It only took two weeks this time. He gave me some run around about a slow couple months and he would get it out to me asap. Like you I am now figuring that's a lie and I will never see it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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