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PostPosted: Mon May 18, 2015 9:56 am 
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Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2015 10:16 pm
Posts: 38
Location: Kansas City mo.
I've got and have had 1835cc for 7 years. The buggy and I have learned how to drive and not tear each other up....went to the dyno last weekend and I total thought I had more horsepower and believed I was lighter than I found out. Still happy with the solid facts about my buggy. BUT now knowing, makes me want more. So the question is out there. Turbo or more cc's? ????


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PostPosted: Mon May 18, 2015 11:34 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 17, 2013 1:33 pm
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Turbo the 1835 unless you wanna stroke it


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PostPosted: Mon May 18, 2015 12:34 pm 
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Location: S.W. Pa. Wellsville Water Cooled Chapter
Stock water cooled something, anything will beat the brakes off anything you can do to a VW. I know, I know that's not what you want to hear, but the facts are facts, unless your a liberal then facts mean nothing.

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PostPosted: Mon May 18, 2015 6:28 pm 
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Location: Tcounty Ohio
^^^^^ that's the facts jack
Can't beat WC


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PostPosted: Mon May 18, 2015 6:58 pm 
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Posts: 286
Location: portage county ohio
I have to agree especially if you don't have a huge budget, I'm almost double your Dino numbers with a bone stock 2.2 ecotech and I have like 300 bucks in the motor and maybe another grand into parts for the swap, you could never build a 150 HP 150 torque VW for 1500 bucks if you had to buy all new parts. And they don't weight that much more. If you do mostly trail riding you would love a fuel injected motor


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PostPosted: Mon May 18, 2015 11:10 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2015 10:16 pm
Posts: 38
Location: Kansas City mo.
I made an impulse buy. More cc's. Now I'm second guessing myself.


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PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2015 5:44 am 
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Joined: Thu Sep 25, 2014 5:05 am
Posts: 163
Location: Pittsburgh,Pa.
It is certainly no debate that water-cooled is the way
to go for more horsepower and reliability. The headaches
associated with air-cooled will push you toward changing
teams sooner or later.
Unfortunately there are the holdouts like me that keep
(and invest) in aircooled because of:
1) nostalgia- great air-cooled memories!
2) low centers of mass- low and close-in hardware. It's just me
and my drive train flying up and down those trails. A bonding
experience, if you will.
3) no radiator- I loath radiators. Leaks drive me insane! I have
had damage on every radiator that I have owned, even my
Bobcat! Cleaning radiators is cumbersome too.
4) no burning anti-freeze smells- I get sick smelling anti-freeze
fumes. Leaks never seem to go away completely.
5) no loss of skin due to anti-freeze burns during
maintenance. Working on or getting hit by boiling anti-freeze makes exhaust burns look trivial. The anti-freeze sticks to the
skin and prolongs the agony.
6) End of season maintenance- I can quickly remove my aircooled
engine and closely examine my clutch and pressure plate. I
want to know that my clutch is not cracked and that my pressure
plate has a good surface on it.


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PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2015 7:21 am 
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Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2015 10:16 pm
Posts: 38
Location: Kansas City mo.
Thank you. I will be doing an engine swap this coming weekend. One thing I am concerned about is jetting my carbs I believe everything else will go smoothly. By the way dose anyone want a 1835 long block pushing 72 horse 91 foot pounds? I'll be swapping for 2275cc.


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PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2015 11:01 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2015 10:16 pm
Posts: 38
Location: Kansas City mo.
With this new motor...what up grades do I absolutely have to do? Electronic fuel pump vs mechanical? Msd ignition vs bosch .009? I know i dont want points anymore. Msd is so expensive. Electronic ignition anything? What should I stay away from? I don't have any gauges...so I'm thinking cylinder head temp, oil pressure, tach? Volts? You guys are the pros (in my mind) so please everything helps.


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PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2015 6:05 am 
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Joined: Fri Dec 05, 2008 9:02 am
Posts: 771
Location: bardstown, ky.
009 with a petronics igniter will do just fine. As far as guages I prefer a oil press guage and a oil light to catch your attention. Also we use a light instead a amp guage so you know if you throw a belt. Easier to see.


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PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2015 7:30 am 
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Joined: Tue Jul 12, 2011 7:16 pm
Posts: 711
Location: hayden, al
X2... also stay with a mechanical pump, it will do fine and is alot more reliable

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PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2015 10:19 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2008 8:53 pm
Posts: 3056
Location: Atlanta, GA
For me... upgrading to a MSD ignition was a HUGE benefit. Significantly improved performance and reliability.

x3 on the mechanical fuel pump. They work fine and I do not believe I have every heard of some breaking down on the trail because their mechanical fuel pump broke. I am sure it has happened but not with me...

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PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2015 9:31 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2015 10:16 pm
Posts: 38
Location: Kansas City mo.
Do you guys have the quart and a half sump under your buggy?


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PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2015 10:18 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2015 10:16 pm
Posts: 38
Location: Kansas City mo.
So just take the points out and install petronics igniter inside where points were. Wire it up. Sounds easy enough.


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PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2015 4:09 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2015 10:16 pm
Posts: 38
Location: Kansas City mo.
Maybe I did something wrong with the igniter. Um it never hit the light in the same spot. BDC to somewhere in the middle to 30 degrees before TDC back to bottom. I was getting sick....After awhile and a couple beers later took it out. Put the points and condenser back in set the time and it fired right up. Wtf?


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PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2015 8:25 am 
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Posts: 1599
Location: Petersburg, Ky
did you wire it backwards? that is a popular mistake. if so, its time to buy a new one!

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