putting my axle back together i forgot on tgohe outer bearing does the chaffered side go toward trans axle or can anyone post a good exploded view??

This is what I used to put mine together.


"Don't believe everything you read on the Internet."--Abraham Lincoln

That should be a sticky... good info there

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The second notation should have said "This other spacer has a champher on the outside. This champher needs to face the wheel."

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thanks guys

Yea it should have. I had pic on phone and I didn't even catch that.


"Don't believe everything you read on the Internet."--Abraham Lincoln

is the small o ring used on a irs i saw somewhere that is not.what yall think.

ok guys i need some input my axle has the inner and outer spacers and two more one long one like in the picture and another one thats like about 3/4 inch.and when i put it all back together the hub does not come close to the paper gasket.any ideas.

That extra spacer, I'll bet is a spacer that's needed for those cheapo one piece rotors. Put it together as the picture shows then it will work, honest.

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Yes, those Brazilian discs are cheapos. The spacer style is for swing axles only. Get the longer spline hubs for irs. The short spline hubs shear in about 4 months. A parts guy mislead me and I wasted nearly $200 the hard way stuck in the woods and a wasted ride and towed back to trailer twice. That's 1 reason I love the Passat rail. Ford car rotor $15, caliper $10, aluminum sport rim $25. ALL Pull a Part. Everything factory! No Chinese cheese or California crap.

ok thanks again guys i'll try again today.it's a new buggy to me so everything is what it is as they say.wish me luck.

will my 1/2 drive impact tighten the axle nut to tight. also tore it down and put it back together and the hub with the seal still does not come close to where the paper gasket is.could i need a different seal?the lips or ridges or whatever ya call them on the hub bottom out on housing before it gets to the paper gasket.

Axle nut takes 250 ft-lbs
I made the mistake of under torquing it.

"Don't believe everything you read on the Internet."--Abraham Lincoln

Is this the gap your talking about?

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passant you anywhere near gardendale

yes mike

That gap use to be occupied by the brake backing from the stock application. Forget the paper gasket and maybe a little silicone around the retainer.

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thanks mike that sounds right . now will my 1/2 impact tighen the axle nut to tight.

tighten it ride it, tighten ride it , tighten it one more time and you should be good.

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thanks guys yall are the best

The torque, if I remember correct 220ftlb. So depending on what impact you have, it could.

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The huge torque is not really a factor. Steel against steel is steel. They basicly don't want back off. The vw axle could handle 500 maybe. I used to torque axle nuts on F4 fighter jets in the 80's and early 90's. Just keep it tight so the bearings don't walk around. bluuh. We transferred to Boeing KC 135 air refueling jets in '95 and their wheels were much bigger and their torque was 105.

The reason for the 220-250 torque is just what was covered earlier in this thread, keeping the hub up tight so the splines don't start walking around and eat up the soft cast iron in the hub. These are not tapered roller bearings so the torque does not affect the bearing clearance, preload, etc. Forget everything you thought you knew about traditional wheel bearings. The ball bearing takes care of the thrust and the straight roller bearing takes care of the radial load. If you don't have a reliable torque wrench, use a 2 foot breaker bar and put what you estimate is just over 100 lbs force on it, or 75 on a three foot bar. I wouldn't recommend much more than this as you risk stripping the nut or axle out, but 100 won't do the job. When you tighten this up, as mentioned before, you are clamping together a joint with a lot of interfaces - nut to cast hub, cast hub to spacer to bearing inner race to long spacer to inner race to spacer to stub axle. Also, look carefully at the splines before you put it together, if they are already damaged and worn, even if German, they won't last, and from the feedback on here the Chinese ones won't last regardless.

the reason i think i got it to tight when i got it tight my rotor would not turn.i backed the nut off and it would turn.

got it all figured out thanks guys