need help just replaced disk brakes on my new buggys.it has cnc pedals and cutting brakes.i need to know how to bleed the brake system.need input.

Is the question, how to bleed brakes? or how to bleed brakes with a cutter?

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jack the front end up as high as you can...remove resevoir cap and top off fluid set cap on loose.
pump up pedal and hold it, then hold cutter and crack bleeder for that side
release cutter, then release footbreak...repeat for opposite side. probrably have to do it several times...drive it a little and repeat. dont let fluid get too low while bleeding.if your doing it alone use 2 stiff bungie cords, one for pedal and one for cutter. not trying to sound like im explaing it to a shortbus kid, just trying to help you explain the way ive had best results and not knowing your mechanical experience or knowledge...

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Hey,can you hand me those zip ties and that roll of duct tape?!

thanks big chevy thats what i needed to know

You should never have to touch your cutters to bleed. If your cut brake is not mounted on floor you need to bring it horizontally. And if your calipers are on top they,may need brought to the back

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i disagree on not having to touch cutters....

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Hey,can you hand me those zip ties and that roll of duct tape?!

Me nor my group have ever touch cutters while bleeding. You sjouldnt have to. The petals will push the air out

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the cutter is mounted vertical its dual handle and the calibers cant be moved to the back brackets are welded in place.

You need to get turns horizontal. And just take the brakes put them on the back so when you're sitting there bleed them you just hold him on the rotor

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i will try that franken

The big thing is you gotta make sure sure your bleeders on top if its not on top you always have air in the system just as if you don't turn your turn breaks up you always have air in the system top of those cylinders. Best if the brake lines are higher than the front "top of the cylinders"

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i think i need to rebuild or just get me a new master cylinder.i get some pedal and then its gone until you pump it up about 50 times.

Here is method that works
1. Fill reservoir 3/4 full.
2. Depress foot brake and hold.
3. Crack bleeder screw on brake furthest from master cylinder.
4. While still holding foot brake down, stroke steering brake through all the way and hold.
5. Tighten bleeder screw, release steering brake, (some suggest keeping handle pulled), release foot brake.
6. Repeat until you get a steady stream of fluid, no air, while maintaining fluid level in m/c.
7. Follow same procedure for other side.

Here is the actual cnc instructions
IF PRESSURE-BLEEDING IS NOT POSSIBLE FOLLOW DIRECTIONS BELOW:
A. Fill master cylinder reservoir with clean brake fluid.
B. Push brake pedal down.
C. Open bleeder screw on right wheel cylinder or caliper.
D. Actuate cutting brake handle connected to right wheel. Hold.
E. Close bleeder screw on right wheel cylinder or caliper.
F. Release brake pedal.
G. Release cutting brake handle.
H. Repeat procedures for left brake.
I. Repeat process until all air is out of system.


I've never heard of not cycling the cutter brake when bleeding...

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Air cooled forever,i hate rusty tools!!!!!!!

ok rick ill try your method thanks.

x2 except wilwood master cylinders they are small fill them before releasing everything

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If it ain't broke ill fix that

and if you have drums in front the adjustment is critical to a good pedal

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If it ain't broke ill fix that

no brakes up front.i still cant get a pedal i just gonna get me a new master cylinder.anyone in bham sell cnc brakes?.this buggy has not been driven in a few years that could be the problem.

got brakes to working i did away with turning brakes.do you guys think a rediusal valve is needed.i know its not spelled right but anyway had a brain freeze.

It's not required but if you do any type of hill climbing you're going to want those turn breaks back on there

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Frankenbuggy06 is correct, at least from my experience and knowledge. You Must make sure your bleeder screws are at the highest point on the caliper while bleeding. If not, you will never get the air out because it can not get to the screw. Air rises to the top, this is the key. Look at any production vehicle caliper mounting, the bleeders are at the top.

Second I have found that the steering brakes will trap air if not horizontal or the outlet lines pointing up. If the outlet lines are lower than the inlet line while bleeding you will not get the air out.

I used to fight with bleeding brakes soooooo much to no end until I did these two things.

I actually have my turn brake mounted on a downhill angle so that the lines are almost the highest point of that system. Next to the master cylinder that is.

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I know a lot of people touch the cutter brakes when bleeding but if you either mount or move the cutters and calipers so that the outlets (lines to calipers for the cutter and bleeder valves for the calipers) are the high point, you can bleed the system like any production vehicle on the road.

I don't have to touch my steering brake either. Only pump and bleed.

i am going to rebuild the cutters if i can find a kit then try them again.i dont think i need them do mainly trail riding and watch the crazy friends climb the hills.

everyone has been giving you the same info i would give you, but i will add a few things as well.
my cutters are mount vertical and i had to install a residual valve, and i also had to depress cutters while bleeding brakes. also if you use a small hose that will fit over the bleeder, and have that run into bottle with some brake fluid already in it. this way it will keep from sucking air back into the line from your bleeders. also it will keep you work area free of brake fluid. for some reason these things can be a pain in the arse , but you will eventually get it.
good luck!!

Ill be honest, never had luck with rebuilding. Have you tried a "power bleeder?"

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