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PostPosted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 7:28 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 08, 2009 4:43 pm
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Location: rittman,ohio ----------- wellsville, water cooled chapter
I'm trying to put as much info together for a set of chaindrive arms or baby chains for my buggy .
I have been doing google search and search on here with some help but none on specs .
Does anyone know what size sprockets and chain is my first question .
Thanks for any help !
Jason 8)

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 10:25 pm 
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Location: Birmingham, Alabama
I get my sprockets and chain from Motion Industries. They are made by Martin. I currently have a 80A24 tooth sprocket on the back and a 80A17 driver sprocket. the 80 means the size, "A" means a plain old flat simple sprocket and the last no. is tooth count. I think those big boys run a 13 front and a 33 rear with 44" tires. My 24t' cost $45 ea. and 10 foot of chain is about $ 140. Watch out for cheap cast sprockets that have special welding procedures and are not hardened like the good ones. With a 17 tooth and a 24 t' my 2nd gear is equivalent to a 451:1 final drive. I have a 3800 buick torque motor (not a good choice motor, 5K rpm tops and 400 lbs) but it turns the 40" Swampers well. Multiply 1st or 2nd gear x ring gear...Then like my sprockets, divide 483(ring gear) by 17. So 206:1 2nd gear will add up like 206x483x(483divide 17)x(24-17). That will give you motor rotations per 1 axle turn. from there I just compare the turns of any other bus trans.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 11:09 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 30, 2007 4:03 pm
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Location: leeds alabama
Need to get ahold of Kevin thomas or curt

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 18, 2014 2:50 am 
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Location: Birmingham, Alabama
true. I'm just a baby chain dude explaining the basics. You will really love chains which ever way ya go. But if baby chains, put the driver sprocket bearing inside the sprocket to keep the buggy narrow. To my knowledge they still use Vanagon bearing housings for the rear and they weld up the stub axle cones. I did not and they twist off easy if not welded. It's nice to have an assortment of rear sprockets and change your gearing from week to week. I doubled up my ball bearing side of the housing(2 bearings, 1 roller 1 ball). The torque on the stub axle will be bone crushing. And do not run no Chinese bus bearings, they are good for about 10 rides. Only factory. Put your stub axle on a lathe and spin it fast. You'd be surprised . 1 out of 8 are slightly not true and you will pulse going down the road with the sprocket wobbling. My machinist says , please select a sprocket that can be divided by 3 so it will chuck up centered. (The lathe has 3 jaws). Then he tack welds them on for me and spins it fast to check for up and down distorsion or side to side. Any hop will pulse while driving especially the bigger sprockets and you can't adjust the right tension either. Because , while you roll the tire, the chain will get tite, loose, tite, loose. Just a mm or less you will get hop and get loose tite loose.If you bolt your sprockets, they must be threaded for 7/16" or bigger. Marty and I concluded that.Six 3/8" grade 8 bolts will twist off the very 1st ride. Everything I just wrote, I learned the hard way. Dead center is critical and start with true stub axles.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2014 4:09 pm 
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Location: GEORGIA ON MY MIND
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