I have been running 2x3 arms on my buggy with 930 joints and 18-3/4" axles. The axles are Sway-A-Way full floating with the long splines and no stop flange like you would see on a stock Porshe axle. They float around a lot when riding and I occasionally hear them banging into the stub axle flange. That's okay I guess but I am about to replace the transaxle drive flange center caps for the second time now because the axles are getting into them and grinding away the center part and they start to leak, slinging that stinkie crap all over the buggy (and there's NOTHING worse than stinkie crap all over your buggy!). So, it's time to chuck them up in the lathe and get 'em shortened down to the right length.

Has anybody got a suggestion for the amount I should take off each end?

Thanks for the help,

Dale

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I recently had the same problem,butmy axle was 19 and a quarter long. I went with stock bus 18and3/4 with no more problems. Maybe sway sways are made a little long? I have 2x3's also. U should be dead on with 18 3/4. Did yo.u put these axles in if not,they could be the wrong length

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Not so fast. Does one side hit or do both? If it is one side it could be the trans is not centered into the car. It could be a simple arm adjustment by moving the washer at the center pivot. It could be too much angle in the CV. It could be the CV's are not phased like they need to be. Lots of stuff to make sure of before you start cutting on some expensive axles.

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you could just round the ends a little leaving enough for the snap ring to hold, or just use silicon instead of the plugs. Its common for them to do it with long travel set-ups, and thats all I do is put silicon in them. My race buggy has 29" axles and it doesnt matter how much you take off, they still try to pull in and hit.

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Maybe you should chug on over to mamby pamby land....

Are the retainer ring clips not on these???

Without the clips it can slide clear from one side to the other and rub. There should be a grove for these about a 1/4" or so in from the ends. That right there may solve the whole problem.

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Hmmm. Well, actually it is only doing it on the driver's side, the passenger side is okay. I have spiral clips on both ends of each axle. The axles measure 18-3/4" exactly. Not sure about "phasing", I know this can be an issue with universal joints because the shaft changes speed slightly as it goes through each revolution. I thought that CV joints did not have this problem and that was why they are called "constant velocity". What should I do for phasing a CV joint? Years ago I ran Datsun 240Z axles and had dealings with phasing.

I like the idea of moving the washer at the pivot. This will make the arm slightly longer on that side and maybe gain just enough clearance to cure the problem. I will try that before I cut the axles. Has anyone else run only silicone for the center cap? Seems like it would take quite a bit to seal it up properly...

Thanks!

Dale

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here is an article about clocking cv joints
http://www.outfrontmotorsports.com/cv_assembly.htm

i personally use the factory seals but i have seen the silocone used many times and it seemed to work just fine

there are 2 thick washers at the pivot point and normally both go to the outside

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Chris

Ridenrace6, thanks for that link. That discussion was very helpful. I had heard of setting up the CVs that way but never paid much attention. I run a pretty steep angle and they have always popped a lot but I have never broke one. They have moly cages, undersized bearings, and were race prepped with my Dremel tool. I'm going to try the silicone only method and see how it works.

Thanks for the help.

By the way, we will be riding Windrock November 23rd through the 27th. Yup, that's Turkey day, but it's lookin' like we should have a pretty good crowd! Come on out, lets ride!

Dale

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