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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 7:44 pm 
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MickeyMouse wrote:
You should buy the chain drive the Jesse posted. It will climb ANYTHING, plenty of ground clearance with Power to spare, Reliable Motor and a buggy that has been built to last.


it is a good deal i have to admit i will look at it again, problem is propane? i dont see how that would work, its more of a hassle? and what engine does it compare to 1915cc?

off topic-- are you the admin of this site? i downloaded the app on my nexus 5 and i cant log in and cant see forum anymore, it just says connecting to server for some reason.


thanks guys i appreciate, it i have to admit i ask a lot of questions


Last edited by TheOriginalOne on Tue Nov 18, 2014 7:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 7:45 pm 
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frankenbuggy06 wrote:
Give me a call.... 330 858 3401

Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2



it would be a long distance im in canada quebec can we talk here?


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 8:09 pm 
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Location: medina, ohio -- wellsville a/c chapter
Buddy has a classic 295 frame with king pin front end, 6 rib and 2.2 ecotec. 2 seater. Full body, nice rear cage. Tested and proven
4500
Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 8:17 pm 
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Location: Fort Worth , TX and Woodward OK
TheOriginalOne wrote:
MickeyMouse wrote:
You should buy the chain drive the Jesse posted. It will climb ANYTHING, plenty of ground clearance with Power to spare, Reliable Motor and a buggy that has been built to last.


it is a good deal i have to admit i will look at it again, problem is propane? i dont see how that would work, its more of a hassle? and what engine does it compare to 1915cc?

off topic-- are you the admin of this site? i downloaded the app on my nexus 5 and i cant log in and cant see forum anymore, it just says connecting to server for some reason.


thanks guys i appreciate, it i have to admit i ask a lot of questions

Propane is bad ass ! It doesn't slosh like Gas , it will run upside down , only other worry there is oil seeping past rings or not getting to sump ....
burns cleaner alot of propane motors the engine oil stays clean longer . Yeah it is a little more of a haste to get refilled but might be worth it for the hard core climber .... iv also heard it gets more mpg or what ever the equivalent is....

If you cant fix it with a hammer it aint worth fixin!!!!


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 8:21 pm 
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frankenbuggy06 wrote:
Buddy has a classic 295 frame with king pin front end, 6 rib and 2.2 ecotec. 2 seater. Full body, nice rear cage. Tested and proven
4500
Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2



Thanks but i dont want to go eco tec too heavy.

i texted the guy with the chain propane buggy.

he said its a bus 1800cc with a m10 turbo powerful? sound powerful ahha

he says around 2200-2500 LBS is that normal weight for a buggy or on the heavy side?

thanks


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 8:23 pm 
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Location: Fort Worth , TX and Woodward OK
Mine weighs 2100 w/o passengers ...

If you cant fix it with a hammer it aint worth fixin!!!!


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 8:25 pm 
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Location: Tcounty Ohio
Buggy weight poll....
viewtopic.php?t=7335


"Don't believe everything you read on the Internet."--Abraham Lincoln


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 8:25 pm 
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Location: Fort Worth , TX and Woodward OK
That ecotec won't weigh more than a 2.3 ford , and i have no problems with my weight . Iv heard good things about ecotec

If you cant fix it with a hammer it aint worth fixin!!!!


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 8:32 pm 
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Location: medina, ohio -- wellsville a/c chapter
Ecotec is the best bang for the buck

Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 8:37 pm 
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Location: Fort Worth , TX and Woodward OK
Cpt.Matt wrote:
Mine weighs 2100 w/o passengers ...

If you cant fix it with a hammer it aint worth fixin!!!!

I lied 1850 lbs ....

If you cant fix it with a hammer it aint worth fixin!!!!


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 8:52 pm 
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Cpt.Matt wrote:
Cpt.Matt wrote:
Mine weighs 2100 w/o passengers ...

If you cant fix it with a hammer it aint worth fixin!!!!

I lied 1850 lbs ....

If you cant fix it with a hammer it aint worth fixin!!!!


yea 2200 is on the heavy side if compared to the poll, he will send me pictures tomorrow of the front of the buggy and engine for more details.

thanks


Last edited by TheOriginalOne on Tue Nov 18, 2014 8:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 8:56 pm 
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Location: Tcounty Ohio
MickeyMouse wrote:
You should buy the chain drive the Jesse posted. It will climb ANYTHING, plenty of ground clearance with Power to spare, Reliable Motor and a buggy that has been built to last.

I told my wife she needs that buggy :)
She didn't buy it :(


"Don't believe everything you read on the Internet."--Abraham Lincoln


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 10:12 pm 
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Location: portage county ohio
TheOriginalOne wrote:
frankenbuggy06 wrote:
Buddy has a classic 295 frame with king pin front end, 6 rib and 2.2 ecotec. 2 seater. Full body, nice rear cage. Tested and proven
4500
Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2



Thanks but i dont want to go eco tec too heavy.

i texted the guy with the chain propane buggy.

he said its a bus 1800cc with a m10 turbo powerful? sound powerful ahha

he says around 2200-2500 LBS is that normal weight for a buggy or on the heavy side?

thanks

What are you basing that off of, you seem to not have any experience so why are you ignoring advise, so I just spent 10 min typing you that previous post to help u and u can't even say thanks. Fly ur a$$ down here and I'll show you the difference between a Eco buggy and a 1915, and you'll go get u a ecotech real quick, 2200 lb buggy with a bus motor hmmm so if my calculations are correct 36 pounds to 1 hp, or my beefed up Eco buggy is about 1800 lbs so 12 pounds to every 1 HP, remember I'm trying to help u go in a good direction, nothing wrong with a VW buggy but don't say things that you don't really know. I swapped out my VW for a ecotech before this season and I ran the same air pressure in my rear air bags before and after and the buggy only sat about half in lower with the eco, not that much difference there and I about tripled my power and that motor cost about 200$ bucks and is completely stock 2.2


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 10:24 pm 
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Location: portage county ohio
Sorry I just realized it had a turbo so maybe 16 to 20 pounds per 1 HP, still not all that impressive, chain drives are awesome but gotta have the HP for that heavy of a buggy


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 10:33 pm 
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Cush53 wrote:
TheOriginalOne wrote:
frankenbuggy06 wrote:
Buddy has a classic 295 frame with king pin front end, 6 rib and 2.2 ecotec. 2 seater. Full body, nice rear cage. Tested and proven
4500
Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2



Thanks but i dont want to go eco tec too heavy.

i texted the guy with the chain propane buggy.

he said its a bus 1800cc with a m10 turbo powerful? sound powerful ahha

he says around 2200-2500 LBS is that normal weight for a buggy or on the heavy side?

thanks

What are you basing that off of, you seem to not have any experience so why are you ignoring advise, so I just spent 10 min typing you that previous post to help u and u can't even say thanks. Fly ur a$$ down here and I'll show you the difference between a Eco buggy and a 1915, and you'll go get u a ecotech real quick, 2200 lb buggy with a bus motor hmmm so if my calculations are correct 36 pounds to 1 hp, or my beefed up Eco buggy is about 1800 lbs so 12 pounds to every 1 HP, remember I'm trying to help u go in a good direction, nothing wrong with a VW buggy but don't say things that you don't really know. I swapped out my VW for a ecotech before this season and I ran the same air pressure in my rear air bags before and after and the buggy only sat about half in lower with the eco, not that much difference there and I about tripled my power and that motor cost about 200$ bucks and is completely stock 2.2


Woah im sorry i missed your post, i just read it. No i have no idea what to compare with engine wise and it a two seater is just as good or not on trails and mud. Ive been looking no one here has these vw buggies they all have side by sides, there are also no association here in quebec.

What i heard is that eco techs are heavy and the lightest buggy wins, but then again i have no personnel experience so its everyones opinion that i take as guide line.

I just want a buggy to do offroad in mud lots of it, trails so i want it fast with control and i like sand pits.

i just want to make sure to buy the right buggy!

Thank you!


Last edited by TheOriginalOne on Tue Nov 18, 2014 10:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 10:38 pm 
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Location: portage county ohio
Your welcome I just want to help, but I would not rule one out there not to heavy, there a little more but I promiss what your looking for you wouldn't be disappointed in performance


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 10:43 pm 
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Location: Fort Worth , TX and Woodward OK
2.3 ford turbo stock u can make 250 hp just by turning up the boost ;)

If you cant fix it with a hammer it aint worth fixin!!!!


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 10:48 pm 
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I'm not trying to stir up the huge debate between ac and WC, what I'm saying is ecotech is a great bang for your buck, a 1835 or 1915 are close to same amount of power and are no were close to being in the same performance as a Eco buggy, I had 1835 and a six rib with 31" tires, it wouldn't get out of its own way, I had to hit every hill with momentum and always feathering the clutch to get up hills, with the Eco its like I got to much power, I can start moving with ease on a hill and never run out of power and torq. Plus with a VW a lot of the time you gotta constantly rev them to clean them out before hills, with a Eco it can sit and idle all day and hit the throttle and always have instant power


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 11:00 pm 
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Cush53 wrote:
I'm not trying to stir up the huge debate between ac and WC, what I'm saying is ecotech is a great bang for your buck, a 1835 or 1915 are close to same amount of power and are no were close to being in the same performance as a Eco buggy, I had 1835 and a six rib with 31" tires, it wouldn't get out of its own way, I had to hit every hill with momentum and always feathering the clutch to get up hills, with the Eco its like I got to much power, I can start moving with ease on a hill and never run out of power and torq. Plus with a VW a lot of the time you gotta constantly rev them to clean them out before hills, with a Eco it can sit and idle all day and hit the throttle and always have instant power



alright, i truly did not know about that side of the eco tecs, i will look into that to see if there are any good deals.

Thank you


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 2:05 am 
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If you wanna play in mud stay away from the Vw go with the Eco if you wanna be top dog and climb the most hills you want a single seater with second gear trans and a 2500cc Vw motor nothing but a well built Chaindrive will outclimb one no Eco buggy will now if you want something really reliable go Eco and honestly for what it sounds like you wanna do Eco would be your way to go water and mud is bad on a air cooled motor the water cooled one will last you forever and it will be more fun for fast trail riding

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 11:47 am 
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TheOriginalOne wrote:
MickeyMouse wrote:
You should buy the chain drive the Jesse posted. It will climb ANYTHING, plenty of ground clearance with Power to spare, Reliable Motor and a buggy that has been built to last.


it is a good deal i have to admit i will look at it again, problem is propane? i dont see how that would work, its more of a hassle? and what engine does it compare to 1915cc?

thanks guys i appreciate, it i have to admit i ask a lot of questions


There is no comparable VW engine. It would have to be a 3500cc dual turbo with NOS to compare to the power of a chain drive.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 12:31 pm 
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jesse wrote:
If you wanna play in mud stay away from the Vw go with the Eco if you wanna be top dog and climb the most hills you want a single seater with second gear trans and a 2500cc Vw motor nothing but a well built Chaindrive will outclimb one no Eco buggy will now if you want something really reliable go Eco and honestly for what it sounds like you wanna do Eco would be your way to go water and mud is bad on a air cooled motor the water cooled one will last you forever and it will be more fun for fast trail riding


Alright thanks, would the chain drive you posted be reliable? its vw though 1800 with m10 turbo. it looks like a beast

there is not alot of eco tecs for sale

thank you


Last edited by TheOriginalOne on Wed Nov 19, 2014 3:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 12:33 pm 
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MickeyMouse wrote:
TheOriginalOne wrote:
MickeyMouse wrote:
You should buy the chain drive the Jesse posted. It will climb ANYTHING, plenty of ground clearance with Power to spare, Reliable Motor and a buggy that has been built to last.


it is a good deal i have to admit i will look at it again, problem is propane? i dont see how that would work, its more of a hassle? and what engine does it compare to 1915cc?

thanks guys i appreciate, it i have to admit i ask a lot of questions


There is no comparable VW engine. It would have to be a 3500cc dual turbo with NOS to compare to the power of a chain drive.


Alright! ive been looking at vids of chain drives and reading about them. there seems be be alot of good advantages as getting alot of ground clearance which can be good for mud and offroading?

thank you! and the app now works for some reason :)


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 4:05 pm 
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Location: Clarksville, TN
My opinion, for what its worth.

First off, do you want something that you can just get in and go, and never have to work on? Or do you enjoy tinkering?

W/C is just get in and go. No adjusting, just start it up and take off. Yes, a little heavier, but much cheaper to replace. Availabilty of parts is a definite plus, just go to your local parts store and they will likely have it. Can't speak for the power as I have never personally driven one, hear they run well though. Will require more knowledge to teardown and rebuild if necessary. Also, you have more parts that if there is a problem, will require more troubleshooting. (Bad sensor, etc.)

A/C will keep you constantly tuning, especially with dual carbs. Parts aren't so easy, and chances are you will have to mail order them. Very simple motors, they are easy to learn to teardown and rebuild. A stock 1600 is pretty mild, but decent. Equivalant to most 4 cyl grocery getter cars. A built A/C is another story. I personally have a 2332 on the back of my buggy, and have a hard time shifting the gears fast enough while its planting me in the back of the seat. Under the same breath, I have blown the motor twice. (Remember the time bomb comment....)

Swing axles are no go's. Weak tranny, and just bad design overall for offroad. You can, however, convert a swing axle into an IRS by replacing the torsion. My buggy was originally a swing, and has been IRS for several years. Just find someone that is a good welder and can fabricate, and you can make a swing axle frame IRS with a little effort.

Chaindrives are a different breed all their own. Same basic idea of an IRS, with the exception of the final drive is modified by the size of the gears for the chain. Could be a reduction drive, equal, or the opposite. You can have a small motor that will have ridiculous power at take off, but no top speed. Or the opposite, all depends on the gearing. Can be A/C or W/C. Depending on what w/c motor, may or may not be a cheap replacement. 4.3 liters aren't as plentiful and will be more difficult to find than say a eco or subie, and will probably cost more.

Transmission selection will also play a part in how fast the buggy feels, also due to gearing. You could have a 2500 with a 6 rib thats fast. Or you could have a 2500 with a 3 rib that has a higher gearing, that is gonna feel faster, but isn't going to go fast on the top end.

Me personally, I started out with a stock 1600 single port a/c. It was fine until I got behind the wheel of a 2500 a/c with a 6 rib. Then I had to build a motor because I wanted that raw power. Ya don't know what your missing if you've never experienced it. So start out small if you want, and use the remainder of your budget to customize to your liking. If and when you go bigger, its gonna cost you. Downside is its gonna cost more later than it will if you just buy one already built. So if you know you want lots of power, buy one thats already built.

Biggest advice I could give, would be physically go see and drive any buggy before you buy it. The only way I would even slightly consider buying a buggy and having it shipped would be due to someones reputation on this site and several people that can back it up that everything is as advertised. And even then, you have to keep in mind that if it has a built motor, it could blow up on you soon after you get it, and the previous owner had no inclination or knowledge that it was ready to let go. Or it could last you several years, who knows... If it is w/c and it blows, no biggie. Local junkyard, couple hundred bucks and you try again. If its a/c and it blows, depending on a severity, could be couple thousand to rebuild.

Pros and cons to all approaches. Weigh them out and see what fits you the best. Just my two cents.

Now as far as reliability, general rule of thumb is the more stock it is, the more likely it will be reliable. Any motor that is built, a/c or w/c, is basically a time bomb.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 4:19 pm 
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streetstock174 wrote:
My opinion, for what its worth.

First off, do you want something that you can just get in and go, and never have to work on? Or do you enjoy tinkering?

W/C is just get in and go. No adjusting, just start it up and take off. Yes, a little heavier, but much cheaper to replace. Availabilty of parts is a definite plus, just go to your local parts store and they will likely have it. Can't speak for the power as I have never personally driven one, hear they run well though. Will require more knowledge to teardown and rebuild if necessary. Also, you have more parts that if there is a problem, will require more troubleshooting. (Bad sensor, etc.)

A/C will keep you constantly tuning, especially with dual carbs. Parts aren't so easy, and chances are you will have to mail order them. Very simple motors, they are easy to learn to teardown and rebuild. A stock 1600 is pretty mild, but decent. Equivalant to most 4 cyl grocery getter cars. A built A/C is another story. I personally have a 2332 on the back of my buggy, and have a hard time shifting the gears fast enough while its planting me in the back of the seat. Under the same breath, I have blown the motor twice. (Remember the time bomb comment....)

Swing axles are no go's. Weak tranny, and just bad design overall for offroad. You can, however, convert a swing axle into an IRS by replacing the torsion. My buggy was originally a swing, and has been IRS for several years. Just find someone that is a good welder and can fabricate, and you can make a swing axle frame IRS with a little effort.

Chaindrives are a different breed all their own. Same basic idea of an IRS, with the exception of the final drive is modified by the size of the gears for the chain. Could be a reduction drive, equal, or the opposite. You can have a small motor that will have ridiculous power at take off, but no top speed. Or the opposite, all depends on the gearing. Can be A/C or W/C. Depending on what w/c motor, may or may not be a cheap replacement. 4.3 liters aren't as plentiful and will be more difficult to find than say a eco or subie, and will probably cost more.

Transmission selection will also play a part in how fast the buggy feels, also due to gearing. You could have a 2500 with a 6 rib thats fast. Or you could have a 2500 with a 3 rib that has a higher gearing, that is gonna feel faster, but isn't going to go fast on the top end.

Me personally, I started out with a stock 1600 single port a/c. It was fine until I got behind the wheel of a 2500 a/c with a 6 rib. Then I had to build a motor because I wanted that raw power. Ya don't know what your missing if you've never experienced it. So start out small if you want, and use the remainder of your budget to customize to your liking. If and when you go bigger, its gonna cost you. Downside is its gonna cost more later than it will if you just buy one already built. So if you know you want lots of power, buy one thats already built.

Biggest advice I could give, would be physically go see and drive any buggy before you buy it. The only way I would even slightly consider buying a buggy and having it shipped would be due to someones reputation on this site and several people that can back it up that everything is as advertised. And even then, you have to keep in mind that if it has a built motor, it could blow up on you soon after you get it, and the previous owner had no inclination or knowledge that it was ready to let go. Or it could last you several years, who knows... If it is w/c and it blows, no biggie. Local junkyard, couple hundred bucks and you try again. If its a/c and it blows, depending on a severity, could be couple thousand to rebuild.

Pros and cons to all approaches. Weigh them out and see what fits you the best. Just my two cents.

Now as far as reliability, general rule of thumb is the more stock it is, the more likely it will be reliable. Any motor that is built, a/c or w/c, is basically a time bomb.



Thank you very much for all the explaining it really makes it all clear now.
this the chain drive is really interesting ( http://woodsbuggy.com/forum/topic?uid=1 ... 473&start= ) cheap and would turn out at around 3.5k with shipment. but i would probably drive there.

but like you said it is built and can blow since it is turbo, but if it blows is it possible to put a eco tec in there?, and yes i love working on stuff changing personalizing, im good with 2 stroke carbs but no experience with the 4 stroke stuff im a die hard 2 stroke for motorcycles.

Thank you! :D


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