Hey Guys:

The time has finally come to upgrade to 930 joints and some quality axles. I am also installing an 091 superdiff in my 5-rib and getting rid of my tubular 2x3 trailing arms in favor of boxed trailing arms (bent the right arm pretty badly on the Labor Day ride ).

I will be getting Sway-A-Way axles which are available in lengths 15.625", 16.250", 16.375", 17.500", and 18.750". I need to keep my current width with 2x3 arms the same due to trailer width limitations. I will be building the boxed arms myself and I have adjustable arm jigs that can be set up in any combination from stock to 5x5.

My question is, what would be the correct axle length with 2x3 arms, a bus 5-rib, and 930 joints? I am thinking 17.500" but has anyone done this? I could also build arms in a shorter combination, like 2x2 to get a particular axle length to work, I can also do half sizes on the arms, like 2x2.5. Does anyone have or know of a formula that can calculate what the axle length should be based on the joint type, transaxle, and arm configuration?

Any help is appreciated,

LUVSDIRT

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Lets RIDE!

One thing you should do is to build the arms the way you them,,,then measure for axle length ,,and order to suit. If you can't get the exact size you need you can order the next size up and trim. The aftermarket axles have extra long splined sections and a quarter inch or half inch trimmed won't hurt anything,,,,just make sure you get a new lock ring groove my a machinist.

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If your clutch ain't slippin,, you probably got it adjusted right!!!!!

Hi Just putting my 2 cents in. Take the hand held high speed cutter peanut wheel thingy thingy and grind a groove around it while it is in a vice. Tighten a zip tie around it to show you where you want it and cut along side it.The same high speed grinder will cut your axles to length also. My porshe axles on my yellow buggy (The Wedge)are 29.5 inches. An OVERKILL I know. 1 wheel has to stay up in the bushes while I climb. It's next to impossible to climb.

I ground my own with a cut-off tool and they popped out. They were on the top side and I stripiped the splines out of several joints so I flipped the homemade clip groove to the outside and it stays in. That is why I say let a machinist do it ,,the cut-off wheel leaves a rounded bottom on the groove and the clip will pop off if it is on the inner CV.

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If your clutch ain't slippin,, you probably got it adjusted right!!!!!

just wondering, i thought 18.750 was pretty much the accepted lenght for 2x3 arms and a bus transmision if its with a car torsion. 15.625 for stock arms and 19.250 for 3x3. just my two cents.

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John 3:16

My joints and axles are over 8 yrs. old.
Lobro joints with hardened cages. Upgrade to 300m cages.
300m axles.
I broke my 1st cage ever on our last ride.
Make sure you get lobro joints with 300m cages, and 300m axles.
Get you some 1" flappy sanding wheels for your die grinder and polish up the races.
Don't buy the empi with chromoly cages, they're made in china now.
Since you're building your arms, build 3x3's and use 19 1/4 axles.
The hills you were climbing last ride, are better suited for 3x3's.

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A good friend will bail you out of jail. A best friend will be sitting next to you saying: "Damn that was fun!"



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A5wGMaUMXUQ

this is correct

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Just Stand On It!!!!

Chris

Bill:

You broke a CV cage on the Huntsville ride Labor Day? I don't remember that.

I have Lobro joints on the way. I will get the good SAW axles once I figure out what the length should be. I have mocked up for a 2x3 boxed arm, thought about 3x3 but am still worried about the trailer width. Like you said, maybe it's time to modify the trailer. I don't think I will be cutting axles with no dang angle grinder! If I have to cut them and make a new snap ring groove it will be done on the lathe.

Thanks for all the advice guys.

LUVSDIRT

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Lets RIDE!

Here is my new trailing arm mockup with foam board on my adjustable jig set for 2x3. I have already transferred the shapes to the CNC Plasma cutter software and will get the pieces cut as soon as I can get to the metal place and get the necessary steel. These will be a combination of 1/4" and 3/16" steel with the upper and lower mains and bearing housing being 1/4" and the inner brace pieces 3/16". The ears sticking up are for my brake caliper. I had that roll of masking tape that was exactly 108mm, 930 joint diameter.

I know everyone and their brother is building trailing arms these days, but if anyone needs a set I can make them any length from stock to 5x5 for $350. I will post more pictures once I have the finished product.

Hopefully, I won't bend these!

LUVSDIRT

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Lets RIDE!

Yep, remember the clanging it was doing downhill, broke inside joint cage towards boot.
Evidently it didn't affect the pulling side as I pulled Noel for 5 miles with it broke.
I think the star on the outside "axle side" caused it as it was pittted badly.
Had it been on the pulling side of cage, it wouldn't have lasted 10 ft.
By the way my cv's are running near if not more than 28 degrees,
Still you should go 3x3, old guy, givin you advise, I told you so, duh?

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A good friend will bail you out of jail. A best friend will be sitting next to you saying: "Damn that was fun!"



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A5wGMaUMXUQ

Just a side note about the 091 superdif. You will also need the adjustment rings and seals from an 091 and 091 drive flanges with the right CV flange face to work in a 5 ribber.

Yup, I have already ordered the 091 - 930 flanges. My transaxle mechanic has the 091 adjustment rings and seals which he will install (as well as a new reverse gear).

Thanks,

LUVSDIRT

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Lets RIDE!

One more sugestion, get chromo bearing housings for your new arms.
They will hold up alot better when you bounce that rear tire off a tree.
Get chromo stub axles as well.

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A good friend will bail you out of jail. A best friend will be sitting next to you saying: "Damn that was fun!"



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A5wGMaUMXUQ