is it worth the money and time....

and can u post a diagram of the system

and also a parts list of what you need to complete a drysump .....

thanks

_________________
new to the buggy world so any help would be great

Yes, the dry sump system is worth your time!! It's like an insurance policy for your motor.

needed parts list:
-dry sump pump
-power pulley or next size smaller to clear the pump (depending on which pump you use)
-dry sump tank
-High psi oil lines/fittings
-good oil cooler
-two remote filters (well thats what we use)
-Good place to mount tank (usually behind the seat)

Here's a good diagram:


-Dakotah

_________________

-Dakotah/koko
keep on keepin' on!!

Couldn't of said it better!

_________________
When in doubt, hit it in second gear!

Could you do that diagram thingy for the bugpack pump please?

It'll be the same plumbing and everything. All of the lines go to the same place as one of these pumps.

-Dakotah

_________________

-Dakotah/koko
keep on keepin' on!!

The Bugpack pump plumbs quite different than the CB pump.
Had to call a buddy of mine to verify this.
Didn't have a BP pump in front of me to check.

Bugpack pump has two ports on each side.
This is an Autocaft pump but it should be similar.
The red body deal on the end is to drive a fuel injection pump.
Yours will have a flat cap.

When the pump is installed, the port closest to the engine on the 1-2 side is plugged.
Should be an SAE threaded O-ring plug, possibly 3/4-16.
Port directly across from that on the 3-4 side returns case scavenged oil to the tank.
There again this is the port closest to the engine on the drivers side.
The port on the 1-2 side furthest away from the case is plumbed to the bottom of the tank.
This pulls oil from the tank, pressurizes it and then through the opposite port, again on the 3-4 side furthest from the case, and is plumbed into the full flow pressure port that you have tapped in the case.
I like the oil filter and cooler on the scavenge discharge line that returns to the tank.
Filter first then cooler.
There is no pressure on this line and the filter keeps the cooler and tank from being contaminated if an engine lets go.
Some add a second filter to the oil pressure to engine feed line that goes from the 3-4 side outermost fitting then through a filter before it plumbs to the port in the engine.
This prevents any debris from getting pumped into the engine should the tank get contaminated from an external source.

_________________
Gary

Turbo VW Sand Racer
Polaris Ranger



"If you don't run into the Devil every once in awhile, you must be going in the same direction!"

Davis Motorsports FaceBook Page

I am using a fram hp1 filter on my full flow set up. What are the Oberg filters? Would that be good for the pump to tank line?

Oberg fitlers are a PIA as far as I am concerned.
You have to unbolt the halves to get to the element for inspection or cleaning.

If you want a reusable filter get a Geers.




http://www.geersengineering.com/

_________________
Gary

Turbo VW Sand Racer
Polaris Ranger



"If you don't run into the Devil every once in awhile, you must be going in the same direction!"

Davis Motorsports FaceBook Page

Speedway has some dry sump screens that are suposed to go in the scavage line, the one from the pan to pump but with the vw you cant do that. So if some thing breaks in the motor it has to go through the pump. That could be bad.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/1663,11 ... lters.html

I could do this one on the scavage line

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/576,118 ... lters.html

then i would do the hp1 after the pump b4 going into the block.

I got my breatherport in the tank plumbed to my breather box for the valve coer/filler thingy good or bad idea?

bump

We plumb the tank into the breather system too with no problems.

Those scavenge line filters are great but as you mentioned, can't get them into the case suction side of the pump without a bit of effort.
You can use this adapter if you feel you need to have that filter.

But you will loose a bit of ground clearance.
These are no thicker than the -10 SAE fitting you see in the picture.
And these have a screen in them too but will only get the big chunks.
Can't restrict the suction side too much with a fine mesh filter.

_________________
Gary

Turbo VW Sand Racer
Polaris Ranger



"If you don't run into the Devil every once in awhile, you must be going in the same direction!"

Davis Motorsports FaceBook Page

I am using the blue aeroquip line -10 with the aluminum push on fittings. I should have the Moroso inline filter here tomarrow to look at but ,placement is getting to be challenging! I am buying Lotery tickets so I can do up an autocraft engine but unless i hit it soon i will run what i have till I can do a autolinea case scat type stroker thank you for sharing the knowledge it is apreciated much!

hose
http://www.aeroquip.cc/index.asp?PageAc ... tegory=254

fittings
http://www.aeroquip.cc/index.asp?PageAc ... tegory=257

I got tho thinking about a scavenge filter for the stock style case.
Leave the original screen in place.
It will catch all the big stuff.
If you have much of that you have more serious problems anyway..........

_________________
Gary

Turbo VW Sand Racer
Polaris Ranger



"If you don't run into the Devil every once in awhile, you must be going in the same direction!"

Davis Motorsports FaceBook Page