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Is it required for an Ecotec harness?

What exactly does it do?

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Bought Buggy- Sept. 12.
Currently fixing the things that weren't finished by previous owner, and getting the Title straightened out so it can truly be Street Legal.

Was it Cardo's?

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[url=http://www.TickerFactory.com/]

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No, God Fathers.

Lease was up on the building. Owners say they didn't realize it was up. They chose to close the store instead of signing a new lease. They expected our store to do the same business a store in Dayton, Ohio does . Which is simply not possible.

All I know is, everyone at the store, including the manager who had been there for 28 years, had a notice that consisted of them calling that morning and saying don't open, the store is done.

Feel pretty bad for the manager, 28 years to be dropped with a phone call and no notice what-so-ever. Hopefully he can get a decent job with his experience.

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Bought Buggy- Sept. 12.
Currently fixing the things that weren't finished by previous owner, and getting the Title straightened out so it can truly be Street Legal.

Well I dont know everything that they are doing for the calibration.
I sent my wiring harness and PCM to them last week on Tuesday.
I talked to Tom on this last Tuesday about the changings and settings.
He said that the harness and PCM should be done in about a week and a half.

What I do know to that they are removing or shutting off the auto thransmission input/outputs. Turning off the "vat" (anti theft) system. Turning off the speed sensor (speed vs tire size). Bump up the rev limiter. Setting the radiator fans to come on about at 160 deg. Making the emission sensors optional (turning off the smog stuff). They said they cant remove it legally but can make it optional. Not sure what else.

Turning off the transmission stuff and "vat" system was the main thing.
I'm sure their are other turners that can do the same stuff but these guys have done alot of Ecotecs and seem like they are willing to do whats needed to get you running.

Call them and ask them some questions. I called them 3 times before I decided to send them my stuff.

Norm

I will give my 2 cents on this one. To have one done right is to put it on a dyno and have it tuned. I had my emissions and vats turned off just to get it running. Then I took it to a dyno and had it tuned made 60+ more hp. The big diffrence is the intake and exhaust. I would have the harness done and then find a dyno shop to tune it. You can do the harness yourself if you have a little patience.

Im still tryin to find a dyno wide enough to fit my race buggy on!

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Maybe you should chug on over to mamby pamby land....

I agree with you 100% about using a dyno to get the most from your set up.
And man your buggy must be really fast being a supercharged ecotec. How much hp do you have, about 270?

I went with a "store bought" tune for a few reasons. The engine is a complete GM 2.2L crate engine with 145 hp and 155 torque. (e-bay for $899) It looks like with the changes to the exhaust, intake and ecu that I will be picking up 10 to 15 more hp.
Right now I have a type 1 trans in my buggy. I have a 3 rib to put in. I also want 3 x 3 or larger trailing arms and I only want to buy axles once.
I think that the hp and torque that I will have are about max for a 3 rib anyway.
If I can find a 6 rib at a reasonable price thats is close then I will step up to a dyno tune.

Flyer, I really like you setup with the Pack-rat and the SC ecotec. Thats what I want. It just means that I would have to leave the family at home and thats not an option.

Norm

SO I guess I need the PCM.

$400 for a good wiring harness, check.

Man, this whole buggy thing is really costly. But I figure I better do it right the first time.

After reading this site for nearly 2 weeks, I have started to decide what I want in a buggy. I want something that's reliable and wont cost me an arm and a leg down the road, so I'm leaning toward water cooled.

I know it will cost more to build, but hopefully it will last long too. Not to mention it should have some nice power.

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Bought Buggy- Sept. 12.
Currently fixing the things that weren't finished by previous owner, and getting the Title straightened out so it can truly be Street Legal.

i have a dead stock pcm and trimmed the harness myself. payed a shop that does dyno tuning and has software to reprogram ecm. as some said above they just turned off anti theft and trans inputs. car runs fine and they assured me they will get me some more power if i let them dyno tune it. i have a turbo and intercooler off an 88 t-bird turbo and told them i may try to install it next winter and they assured me they program for that too.

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Turbocharged Ecotec,vanogon midshift,Berrien WoodsBuggy wagon.

Passat VR6 2800, 1997.Just my input. I just clipped off all useless wires such as smog. Used the hot wires for water temp(will not run with out it), MAF(Mass Air Flow),o2's, Outside.Air.Temp. and throttle position, all going straight to computor. Ran fuel injection power wire , coil pack ignition power wire, and fuel pump power wire, thru toggle switches and then on to battery.Computer power wire directly to battery (always on so memory does not have to reprogram every time you start(DISCONNECT BATTERY WHILE WELDING!).Radiator needs to be controlled by HAND!That and not purged(burping) the air out of the radiator is why I've violently overheated about 7 times and my compression is going down hill.I had to learn by getting burned.If you run only 1 O2 you will change plugs every 20 hours because the computor(ECM) averages the pre and post catyletic converter o2's.To sum it all up I just have 4 overhead toggle switches, going to an external fuel pump from a 1984 Toyota Celica( 45 psi.) ,the coil ignition system, radiator fan, and the fuel injection system itself.The rest is going in and out of the computer like it was designed basically.The vehicle speed sensor (VSS) on the trans does not need to know or care what size tires you have.Last summer when the motor was new it was absolutely violent with 175 real h.p. Overheating is bad no matter what motor you have.I can back up what I say so call (205)369-7406. Keep on keepin on and it will start making sense.Keep your MAF sensor CLEAN and sprayed off with MAF Cleaner ONLY.Air filter is CRITCAL .The maf wire is heated and streched across the incomming air. The compt senses how much air is coming in by how its getting cooled by it, therefor the compt tells the injectors to richen up or lean.VERY Dirty air filters can play tricks on every thing.The compt don't know if the weather is 35 degrees outside or 85, so the OAT(Outside Air Temp) tells it so it can compare .All this is really simple and fun to learn.Buy a OBD2 Haynes book from Auto Zone. Oh and re use your OBD2 port fromunder the dash of a car.I think it only takes the original wire from the computer and a ground. You can diagnose your car with a borrowed hand held scanner from Auto Zone. Once I had a loose MAF wire and I stopped by Auto Zone with it on the trailer and it had a maf sensor no pwr input code.SO helpful!Oh. remove and wipe off the crankshaft sensor magnet every once in a great while because it picks up metal from normal engine wear.Takes about 5 minutes total.