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PostPosted: Wed Sep 10, 2008 9:47 am 
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I want to break ground with my master disconect switch. this will let me wire my alt. direct to the battery and not go through any devices as well as powering my main with out going through another device. I cam shorten some runs up as well that way. I had corosion problems with my old switch an my charging system went down due to coroded terminals this would solve that issue. OPinions? thanks


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 10, 2008 12:49 pm 
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I use a disconnect on my ground. Its the style that would normally mount to a side post battery. Every circiut is disconnected this way and I feel its the better way to do it. Breaking the ground cable insures you dont get power to any circuits thru ground loop feedback. The only downside is if you have a device on borard that requires battery back up such as a clock or radio. I have mine mounted to the ground stud on my frame were the cable would normally go so I dont have to remove my battery cover to get to it. A green LED on the dash tells me if the disconnect is on or off.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 10, 2008 7:43 pm 
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Same here.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 10:09 am 
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Another point about breaking the power. If you have an ECU controlling the motor you need to have a constant +12 VDC to retain the memory of what the ECU has learned about your motor. Each time you drop power to the ECU it has to start over an usally takes a few hours to relearn the Data. I believe this is why my Buggy would run better as the day went along.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 3:25 pm 
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I never ran a disconnect switch on my rails, but I am going to put one on my new one for safety reasons, and I think if you use an Optima battery, it will never corrode at the terminals whether you disconnect them or not. The ground switch that you talking about IMO is not necessary, if you already have a positive switch, you should disconnect it to where you won't have any hot wires to short out to ground when working on the buggy. I see what you're saying here though.....you want to wire your alternator directly up to you battery, that should not be necessary, I run mine straight to the positive on the starter because you have a heavy wire running to it anyways straight from the battery and it runs through the disconnect anyways. The wire from the alternator should be 8 or 6AWG because it will only put out around 50 amps.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 10:27 pm 
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Something to consider is when the master disconnect is turned to the disconnect state while the engine is running. It may still continue to run off the charging system if the RPM is high enough. When the ground is disconnected the battery is removed from the circuit but not the charging system. This can also cause the charging system to go into a over charge state and damage sensitive electronics.

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PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2009 11:02 am 
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that is the way they are intended to be set up. it should work as a kill switch. isolating the battery alone is not enough.


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PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2009 11:51 am 
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I use a continuous duty solenoid. I run hot from battery to alt,,,and hot to ingition switch,,,the ingition switch when on powers up the continuous duty solenoid whch powers everything else,,,,I also use seperate continuous duty sonleoids for my cooling fan, and air compressor. I like them better than the little plastic cube relays,,,however I still use the subaru factory relay for fuel pump. The continuous duty solenoid will brake hot or ground . It's just an electric switch. Maybe I'm off subject,,,sorry

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