I've been running a/c since 77 and w/c since 01 so I do feel I've got some voice.I love all these Eco's and Subies and what evers. But PLEASE factor lite weight. My 3800 Buick was so heavy (400 with radiator) I could not even tickle the gas on a hill even with lowered suspension, lead on the front what ever, driver forward, taller tires....It dictated how I turned stopped climbed etc.Uncommanded wheelies were scary and once a month I would come up and over backwards. I had a wreck once so bad I was knocked out for several minutes and before I passed out from the pain I could feel the warm blood pumping out of my scalp and nose. I woke up in a huge puddle of blood and have pics.$1400 at the doc's that day, over 2 years of headaches and 2 cat scans. Unless you go chain drive , big n heavy is NOT the way to go.I know VW Bug has the advantage here but the w/c choice MUST be the best weight per h.p.discision you can make.Personnally I would go with the SHORT, LOW profile Soob.A long motor would hang off the back and also tall would hurt you aswell.My Passat set up is considered a mid engine so that is different.

'S why we put the rotary in.

I can say that extended trailing arms make a huge difference. My engine weighs a little over 300lbs and would do a wheelie pretty easy. Now with 3 X 3 arms I can't hardly make the front end come up.

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Dodge 2.2L Turbo Power Running Megasquirt-n-Spark MPI.
http://www.woodsbuggy.com/forum/water-cooled-engines/3584?p=24592#p24592

here is a pic i found in my photo bucket of what you was always flipping in

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I DO NOT FREE BASE COCAINE

WOW! I used to flip over going up a hill with no more than a 1/4" of throttle when the motor hung off the" back" . That pic must be '07. Now that frame is the Panzerwagen.Thanks for that ol pic Jesse! See ya at Windy!

Choosing the right motor dosen't seem to be the problem. The problem seems to be the transmisions. The goal would be to find a motor/trans combination where the trans will survive the long term abuse of off road. Who's tranys are the strongest with out altering it or adding $2000 worth of hipo parts? I'm not in the automotive buisness to see what's out there to say that so-n-so's motor/trans package is what we can run for the long term. Someone shows me the perfect out of the car, direct replacement, bolt it in and wire it up motor/trans, I'm there.To me there is only ONE way to go and that is a light weight computer controled, fuel injected, distributerless inginition, overhead cam water cooled power. At some point the VW transmisions will become very hard to find and if you can find one, your gonna pay through the nose to get it. I don't have $6+K to spend on a Mendela race trans, do you?

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Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.
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I wonder if a suby motor / trans combo from a hi performance car would hold up with the help of babychains,,, maybe next project.

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If your clutch ain't slippin,, you probably got it adjusted right!!!!!

i think it was like right after you put the gear reduction boxes or whatever they was down by the wheels

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I DO NOT FREE BASE COCAINE

No. The gear boxes were next to the trans.The machinist milled the bearing holes an 1/8 off.He was an idiot. The suby set up would have been awesome with baby chains but someone told me it would ride goofy back then.Listening to people that declare that they are all that, made me start doing and thinking every thing for myself. That way I can blame all the failures on myself.

I've been pondering one of those claimed Ecotecs. Seen some Saturn 2.4,16 valve, 160HP, 4 cylinder all aluminum beasts with automatic trans.Now that would look nice longways going into an irs diff.If my health and wealth will stay with me I can do it next spring.

Why not a all wheel drive suby and run a front end with small front tires .Just think all the times you could have made it if you had just a little help from the front end .My son had o 4 wheel drive mini buggy ....it went well

Soon adds some weight though when you need to run a prop, front diff, half shafts, and move the steering rack and arms...
Besides, if you wanted 4wd you may as well stick the engine in the middle/just behind the front axles and even the load out on the tires - but then you've gone away from a VW rail concept altogether.

TBH, it's not really a problem of how heavy the engine is anyway, it's more a problem with where you put it, if you've got something really heavy (big old V8 or similar), then really you want to move it a good few inches forward in the wheelbase - or bring the wheelbase back wrt the chassis - which is where the reduction boxes/chains come in I suppose.

Hey Rock, your sons 4 wheel drive buggy still goes well (when not high centered..lol), my buddy's daughter drives it now

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Mike
Got Honda?

thats what i'm talking about just bigger .That one was built 4x4 using a 4 wheeler set up but it went well for what it was ,,,,a light weight suby set up a-arm front end

that blue 4x4 mini buggy is awesome! got any more pics of it?

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If your not God, then don't judge me