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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 11:38 pm 
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You are right the 3.0, 3.2 and 3.5 Odyssey are the same heads. The MDX 3.5 that makes 350 hp has a different head with a different combustion chamber. I can't even think about making them that inexpensive. I like my factory manifold they have huge runners and the factory exhaust uses a pipe in a pipe that reduces the ID fro 2" to 1 1/2" they great thing about using the Y pipe is you can place your O2 sensor to pick up all six cylinders. If I ever go that route I'm going turbo for 420 HP already have the fuel pump and injectors.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 8:46 am 
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I've got the computer and all supporting components to turbo the engine but I don't see the need for me. Pushing close to 300hp is way more than my transmission budget will allow. I'm selling all my turbo stuff off still and could easily megasquirt the engine and turbo it. The guy I talked to in Phoenix said he did a conversion on a rail from a Subaru to the Honda. It was a stock 3.5 with a K&N and a set of headers. On the dyno through a built 091 it made 260hp to the rear wheels. He said the manufacturers are pretty conservative with their factory hp ratings on most engines. That's more power than I would ever need......for now anyway. :wink:

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 11:30 am 
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Forty, you say that now but like anything you get use to it quick and it just doesn't seem quite as powerful. I remember the first drive it was just unreal fast and I guess it still is but like anything more power is better. I dynode my car last week just to get a base line prior to changing to a new throttle body. My 3.2 made 260 hp at the rear wheels with the larger 3.5 throttle body. It is the type S though rated at 275 by the factory.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2013 10:15 pm 
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I was fooling around on speedways site through the link madmike posted and found some Honda books on sale that might interest you and red Barron. They have several listed through out the sales section listed so scroll through the pages.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Web-Site-Sales.html Chad :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 02, 2013 11:50 pm 
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I was wondering were you got your wiring harness. Possibly a contact number or a website would be very helpful :D


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 03, 2013 7:47 am 
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Brandon is on http://www.glamisdunes.com and he has a screen name of Kraut_n-Rice. He charges $650 for the harness and provides the computer. The computer I have is from a 99 Integra I think. I didn't buy from Brandon because I found a deal "used" but never installed from another person. Brandon is in Phoenix, I think, and will answer all your questions. He returns calls quickly and knows his stuff. 480-570-0743

Casey at 702-845-6750 goes by jse4golf on http://www.glamisdunes.com. Casey built my harness. He used to build a lot of them and specialized in Honda swaps at his shop, Southwest Performance (I think). Now he specializes in side by sides, like Rhino and razors. He will still builds the harnesses. He doesn't modify a factory harness he builds a new harness using the connectors. It is a very nice harness and he also charges $650.

Both of the setups require minimal wiring. A relay for the fuel pump, relay for the fans, a tach wire if you have one, a low oil pressure light if you have one, a couple power leads- switched and unswitched.

This was a very easy install and the only thing most will struggle with is fitting the intake and water ports into the frame since they go out the back. Intake can be flipped to face the back of the frame with a little work.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 03, 2013 11:38 am 
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fortydegnorth wrote:
I've got the computer and all supporting components to turbo the engine but I don't see the need for me. Pushing close to 300hp is way more than my transmission budget will allow. I'm selling all my turbo stuff off still and could easily megasquirt the engine and turbo it. The guy I talked to in Phoenix said he did a conversion on a rail from a Subaru to the Honda. It was a stock 3.5 with a K&N and a set of headers. On the dyno through a built 091 it made 260hp to the rear wheels. He said the manufacturers are pretty conservative with their factory hp ratings on most engines. That's more power than I would ever need......for now anyway. :wink:

260 hp on a vanagon trans that was overbuilt but originally came with a 70 hp motor. That's nearly 4 times! Then add steep hill, roots, rocks, monster grip tires vs 14" 215 street tires. Would ALL the w/c people speak up. I hid the truth myself until I had a pile of side shifts that a show dog could not jump over. I'm too wo' out to start another project, but would somebody take any fwd Honda and trans and run it sideways normally like it came out of the car. Each 1" axle will run thru (2) 1/2" plates and a 1"x6"x 20"aluminium trailing arm will sandwiched between them. With narrow baby chain sprockets.(Maybe a 13 tooth driver and a driven) I wish I could draw it out and post it on here. Automatic would be nice .Look! No adapter plates , high torque starters, clutch ,press plate, 6 rib, with special gears,4 spyder diff, slave cyl, and weld a $10 chrome Auto Zone extension pipe on to the stock exaust. The Stock Honda harness will be fine if you learn up on it. The stock shifter is cable operated . Just bolt it to the floor and you are done. It will not be as rear end heavy as what you are trying to build. It will smoke the daylights out of anything at the hillclimb. That automatic would go thru those gears like a wife in a shopping mall. With 14" wide Firestones it can be as narrow as 68". Great for maneuvering the turns at a hill climb.


Last edited by 2800passat on Wed Apr 03, 2013 11:52 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 03, 2013 11:52 am 
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2800passat wrote:
fortydegnorth wrote:
I've got the computer and all supporting components to turbo the engine but I don't see the need for me. Pushing close to 300hp is way more than my transmission budget will allow. I'm selling all my turbo stuff off still and could easily megasquirt the engine and turbo it. The guy I talked to in Phoenix said he did a conversion on a rail from a Subaru to the Honda. It was a stock 3.5 with a K&N and a set of headers. On the dyno through a built 091 it made 260hp to the rear wheels. He said the manufacturers are pretty conservative with their factory hp ratings on most engines. That's more power than I would ever need......for now anyway. :wink:

260 hp on a vanagon trans that was overbuilt but originally came with a 70 hp motor. That's nearly 4 times! Then add steep hill, roots, rocks, monster grip tires vs 14" 215 street tires. Would ALL the w/c people speak up. I hid the truth myself until I had a pile of side shifts that a show dog could not jump over. I'm too wo' out to start another project, but would somebody take any fwd Honda and trans and run it sideways normally like it came out of the car. Each 1" axle will run thru (2) 1/2" plates and a 1"x6"x 20"aluminium trailing arm will sandwich between them. With sprockets. I wish I could draw it out and post it on here. Automatic would be nice .Look! No adapter plates , high torque starters, clutch ,press plate, 6 rib, with special gears,4 spyder diff, slave cyl, and weld a $10 chrome Auto Zone extension pipe on to the stock exaust. The Stock Honda harness will be fine if you learn up on it. The stock shifter is cable operated . Just bolt it to the floor and you are done. It will not be as rear end heavy as what you are trying to build. It will smoke the daylights out of anything at the hillclimb.


I agree with you on this. If I hadn't already built the buggy with everything the way it was I would have pursued an option like you describe. I still may chain drive it once I get to play a while. Almost 8 years of building and rebuilding, I just want to play!! :lol:

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 03, 2013 2:01 pm 
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Forty, how did you connect the six wires from the ECU to your chassis harness? I am in search of a factory six pin male and female connector to make all my engine harness connectors plug and play. As it is now I have to pull the intake plenum and pull all the wires off the engine to pull it. It would be so much easier to pull the engine with the harness in tact

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 03, 2013 2:35 pm 
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My ECU has two plugs and then 4 individual wires that plug into it. I can just pull those 4 wires and two plugs to remove the engine. The ECU and chassis wiring all stays in the car. The fans run on a Spal controller so I just pull a plug at the sender on the engine and they are free as well. So basically two radiator hoses, the 4 plugs and 4 wires, and fuel lines free it up except the bolts.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 03, 2013 5:49 pm 
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Red Barron wrote:
Forty, how did you connect the six wires from the ECU to your chassis harness? I am in search of a factory six pin male and female connector to make all my engine harness connectors plug and play. As it is now I have to pull the intake plenum and pull all the wires off the engine to pull it. It would be so much easier to pull the engine with the harness in tact


You could use something like this.

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+ ... Mgodv04AEw
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