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 Post subject: Subi running like crap
PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 10:07 am 
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Just got back from a wellsville shakedown run with my new brakes and front end, and the motor started running bad. I have giveitagallon's old buggy, and everything motor related is exactly the way he gave it to me. He set it up with no O2 sensor, ran fine before without it.

I know this isn't the case, but it sounds like a carb is dumping too much fuel and fouling out the plugs. I ran into a guy up there that said his friend had the same problem, and it was one of the sensors. He told me that there are 3 main sensors that the motor needs, and his friend always carries spares of the 3 because water messes them up. He was sober, and told me what my buggy was running like without even hearing it run. It seemed pretty believable, he described exactly what my buggy sounded like after I said 'it running like crap'.

Is he right, and I just need to swap around a few sensors and check some connections? That said, what sensor(s) am I looking for? I *think* the only ones needed are the Mass Air Flow, the Cam Position, the Throttle Position, and Temperature. I haven't done much yet other than washing and looking around, everything is plugged in right at least. Right now it is running fine though, so I guess I won't know if it's fixed even it I do get it right.

I think while I'm at it I'm going to unplug every wire and put dielectric grease in, then electrical tape them good to try to keep them dry.

Mad Mike, if you read this, the front end is awesome. I upgraded the rear brakes to 3/4 ton Chevy front calipers and vented S-10 rotors while it was apart, it will throw you foreword in the seat as soon as I touch the pedal. I need to upgrade to a bigger master cylinder now though, and my cutters are leaking out of the seals a bit. It locks pretty far down in the stroke with the 3/4" master, I'm going to go to either 1" or 1 1/8" I think.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 10:22 am 
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Not sure on any of the engine stuff. But I run chevy s-10 calipers, which are the same as 1/2 ton and a 7/8 MC does great.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 10:33 am 
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nitro_mudder wrote:
Not sure on any of the engine stuff. But I run chevy s-10 calipers, which are the same as 1/2 ton and a 7/8 MC does great.


Good to know. Do you have a nice firm feel? When I did the brakes on my Ranger with 1 ton axles I went from a 3/4" to 1 1/4", it made a huge difference. I'm running F-350 front calipers and 1/2 ton Chevy on the rear, I needed to push a lot more fluid.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 10:43 am 
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My motor did something similar. I would check all the sensor and computer plugs for any corrosion before assuming a sensor is bad. I had a timing advance issue and it was all due to one alt plug pin shorting over to the one next to it because it was full of water. I put super black over the ends of all my harness plugs where the wire goes in to keep water out and lots of bulb grease in plugs and no problems since.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 10:47 am 
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lngtrvl2332 wrote:
My motor did something similar. I would check all the sensor and computer plugs for any corrosion before assuming a sensor is bad. I had a timing advance issue and it was all due to one alt plug pin shorting over to the one next to it because it was full of water. I put super black over the ends of all my harness plugs where the wire goes in to keep water out and lots of bulb grease in plugs and no problems since.


Makes sense. I was going through a 'puddly' section when it first started messing up. Probably dried out overnight and that's why it runs good now.

What is superblack? Some sort of caulk-like sealant I'm guessing? Or do you mean the Black RTV?


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 10:48 am 
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Mine feel great on the 7/8. Now when I added front brakes last year i needed a bigger master for all four. So I went with the dual res setup from CNC. I run a 3/4 for the front wilwoods and the 7/8 for the rear chevys. It uses a balance bar to adjust which set you want more bias on. Next week will be my first test run with this setup to see how well I like it. But on the road its great.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 11:59 am 
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nitro_mudder wrote:
Mine feel great on the 7/8. Now when I added front brakes last year i needed a bigger master for all four. So I went with the dual res setup from CNC. I run a 3/4 for the front wilwoods and the 7/8 for the rear chevys. It uses a balance bar to adjust which set you want more bias on. Next week will be my first test run with this setup to see how well I like it. But on the road its great.


My bias is pretty much spot on right now, I just need to push some more fluid. The front proporting valve is set to full brake and it's right, so I have plenty of adjustment if need be. Those Chevy brakes are awesome.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 1:38 pm 
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Jules I neve did solanums the wires in the spark plug holes . Pull the plug wires and short are in the holes , if any water comes out that should be your problem . It's arcing the spark in the holes . The first time I washed her it ran like shot and thought I had a wire issue and pulled the wires found water , blew it out real good ( off wire end to ) and fire right up !
Hope this helps !!!

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 3:36 pm 
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Giveitagallon, I checked that first and they were dry. That's why I'm thinking a connector somewhere. I have some other work to do also, so it's no big deal hitting all of the connections. I have to tear it partway down, I found some cracks in the frame while washing it today, and I have to put a bigger radiator on somewhere. I put plates and insurance on it, but it overheats on the road when you are working the motor constantly. I think I'm going to lower the battery and computer, move the gas tank in front of the crossmember, then put the radiator where the gas tank currently is. I moved the seats up last year (I'm shorter than you) so there's room behind them now.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 5:26 pm 
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Ok just wanted to make sure it was not something simple like that . Have u flashed the ECM yet ? When I put the harness in the box i put a little yellow light on the side . If u plug the self diagnostic mode up it should flash a code if there is a error the ECM is picking up .
If it ends up connectors the only ones there was was to the fuse box and fuel pump and starter . The main firewall harness was cut out and soldered and Shinkansen wrapped so I hope there is no problems there . But I know u said the fuel pump connectors were bad when u got her so I hope the others didn't do the same thing !
Hope this helps alitle !
Jason
And that car rips it !!!!!!

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 8:58 pm 
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I've never flashed the ecm, I actually have no idea how to.

It runs good now, so I'm thinking it has to be a connector that's exposed somewhere. I'm just going to clean, grease, and seal everything. The fuel pump sounded funny all day, might even be a connection I made. It seemed louder or something.

The car does rip for sure. I'm excited for summer to be here.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 9:22 pm 
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I once ran just 1 O2 sensor and the plugs would last about 25 hours b4 fouling.So you know the extra gas could be washing the oil out of the rings aswell.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 9:36 pm 
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Jeez I never read what I wrote but it's crazy what auto correct does ! Supprized you remotely understood what I was saying ! Lol

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 11:33 pm 
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2800passat wrote:
I once ran just 1 O2 sensor and the plugs would last about 25 hours b4 fouling.So you know the extra gas could be washing the oil out of the rings aswell.


The 2.2 only has one I believe. That's still one more than I have. I killed one motor already with running too rich, I think I'm going to put an oxygen sensor on while I'm messing with it.

Giveitagallon, you aren't kidding about the auto correct. :lol: Is there anything crazy I would need to do to hook the oxygen sensor up? I believe the wire is hanging there, is there anything else I should know? Thanks.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 7:34 am 
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Nope just get one and thead it in that o2 bung and plug it in then plug that's is already ran back there .

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 9:10 am 
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You really should run an O2 sensor as the ECM sees no sensor as a lean condition and goes to safe mode that is rich.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 10:51 am 
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2800passat wrote:
I once ran just 1 O2 sensor and the plugs would last about 25 hours b4 fouling.So you know the extra gas could be washing the oil out of the rings aswell.

Sorry. I have to correct my last post. My motor and compt. was made from the factory for two O2's.(the compt. averages them together). Just run how many your motor calls for.AND they both look identical but have different part numbers.That's on my VW Passat.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 3:22 pm 
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I have two buggies one calls for 1 o2 sensor and the other calls for 2 o2 sensors i use what it calls for... One time mine got to where it was runing off 2 back cylinders and it was the computer went bad....

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