I moved my thermostat to the upper hose to help it cool better. I made an inline thermostat housing from 2 suby goosenecks.

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If your clutch ain't slippin,, you probably got it adjusted right!!!!!

i like it

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lets just ride

Thats a good idea! I dont even have one on the race buggy cuz I couldn't get it to flow, it would just get hot and never open, so I put a restrictor in it. I might try that

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Maybe you should chug on over to mamby pamby land....

I replaced mine with a restrictor plate. No real need for a thermostat unless your winter driving.

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Water cooled Dry Sumped Subaru Powered Turbo Charged Fuel Injected 2500CC Tank. Oh Rah! He who dies with the most Toys not only wins, He also wears them out!

I never could understand why the thermostat was on the bottom hose..when thermo would open it would introduce cool water and shut up again. I read once that Subaru did that for better heater reasons . I found the upper thermo fix on another site. I suppose that the engine would like to remain a moderate constant. I think that I never really had a full coolant system during my last engine failure,,,that and low oil.

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If your clutch ain't slippin,, you probably got it adjusted right!!!!!

The 4 cylinder motors have a line coming from the water crossover on top of the engine that always keeps hot water on the thermostat. I suspect the 6 bangers have it too.

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Water cooled Dry Sumped Subaru Powered Turbo Charged Fuel Injected 2500CC Tank. Oh Rah! He who dies with the most Toys not only wins, He also wears them out!

I think your right,,,I also think that at the thermstat there are heater lines,,,another reason to use a loop on the heater connections,,,,I guess Anyway I like the upper therm fix,,it opens quicker and lets the heated water get to the radiator quicker

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If your clutch ain't slippin,, you probably got it adjusted right!!!!!

I suspect that is because you heater hose circuit is blocked, the heater curcuit must be looped or allowed to return hot water to the thermostat. Block the heater circuit and the thermo will never open.

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A good friend will bail you out of jail. A best friend will be sitting next to you saying: "Damn that was fun!"



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A5wGMaUMXUQ

Marty, where did you get the idea?
I'm currently converting a vanagon to suby, that might be better than what I've fabbed so far.
The vanagon curcuit shuts off the heater flow when not in use, so I had to build a bypass system, which I think could have been avoided using your method.

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A good friend will bail you out of jail. A best friend will be sitting next to you saying: "Damn that was fun!"



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A5wGMaUMXUQ

see if this will get you there,,,,,bout half way down the page


http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/forums/show ... at&page=15

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If your clutch ain't slippin,, you probably got it adjusted right!!!!!

Did you figure out using 2 thermo housing necks, or has somebody already tested this?
I really think the vanagon conversion guys, will eat this up,if the heating is still good.
At any rate, I'm really looking forward to hearing your results.

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A good friend will bail you out of jail. A best friend will be sitting next to you saying: "Damn that was fun!"



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A5wGMaUMXUQ

the double gooseneck is my idea,,I found a thermo that would fit and took the rubber gasket off it,,,then cut a paper gasket for the thermo to fit inside,,then used a couple of 1/4-20 x1 1/2 bolts,,along with some blueglue,,actually I had some blackglue,,it works great, and I got it at 90 degrees which I needed in my application.

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If your clutch ain't slippin,, you probably got it adjusted right!!!!!

Have you ran it yet, if so how did it do?
Great idea on the cheap.
One of the conversion group guys said, by having it on top it will cause large coolant temp swings,evidently it is very important that open deck engines not be exposed to that.
I guess being on the return coolant side and being supplied hot coolant by the heater return, the thermostat,can have a more gradual effect on how quickly cool coolant is introduced into the engine from the radiator.

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A good friend will bail you out of jail. A best friend will be sitting next to you saying: "Damn that was fun!"



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A5wGMaUMXUQ

I have only ran it in the garage,, I was able to add a gallon of coolant after doing this mod and the radiator hoses both warmed up easy,,before one would be scalding and the other cold. ,,,seems like on the exit side it would keep the engine at thermo temp just as well,, ( as most nearly every engine out there) ,not sure

you can buy inline thermostat housing on ebay or summitt

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If your clutch ain't slippin,, you probably got it adjusted right!!!!!

It might be that one way is better for racing,,,the other better for commuting. Maybe you could experiment with it. Someone with a suby in a suby car might be able to give a fair comparison. All my old carbed engines have the thermo on top. Mine may be doing better because I got more air out,,and I am pretty sure the thermo location had a little to do with that. Without a heater in my buggy I don't know if I can proove which way is more ideal.. In the shop I have no doubts as for my particular application. I will know more when I take it for a spin at the Huntsville Monster Truck Show.

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If your clutch ain't slippin,, you probably got it adjusted right!!!!!

A good temp guage will probably confirm one way or the other.
The conversion guys are kind of anal, when a different way is suggested.

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A good friend will bail you out of jail. A best friend will be sitting next to you saying: "Damn that was fun!"



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A5wGMaUMXUQ

Well like I said some of the conversion guys in my forum are anal, but then Scott at Turbovans chimed in with this.

Very good thinking !
It might work.
It's very old fashioned to have the t-stat at the top of the engine at the hot
outlet.
VW has never made a water cooled engine that way, for example.
I believe the disadvantage is less control over how the engine warms up.....
like some areas might be warmer while others are cooler, etc.
Almost without exception , I believe, all modern engines have the t-stat on the
return hose at the bottom of the engine.
But hey ..
try it out !
not a whole lot of effort to build it at least to try.
I think it's a brilliant thing to try.
I would drill a small hole in the edge of the t-stat so there is always a tiny
bit of flow anyway.
Any conventional 'single door' t-stat should work fine.
like a 180 or a 190 F.

Scott
www.turbovans.com

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A good friend will bail you out of jail. A best friend will be sitting next to you saying: "Damn that was fun!"



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A5wGMaUMXUQ

That is reassuring MadDog,,,I did drill a small hole in the topside of the thermostat to let air bubbles out, ( it was one I am installing,,a 170, the engine I removed had an OEM,,,they are too tall to fit this mod),,Suby OEM thermostats have a little dingle thing,,,the one I had that fit did not.. In my application if for no other reason ,,and for some reason,,,,the system filled nicely. I did get the buggy out in the yard for several hard runs and had no issue. I also realized something I did wrong a long time ago,,,,my dumb ass had the overflow bottle plumbed wrong I wonder if one is even necessary If you decide to give this a try I hope it works for you. If the Vanagon uses water flow for heater control you may still need a loop...Water flow may help the engine temp even out.

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If your clutch ain't slippin,, you probably got it adjusted right!!!!!

I ran this setup pretty hard at Fultondale,,,hit the rev limiter often and the engine never spewed a drop of coolant. I think this is a good upgrade to the stock thermostat location for high rpm running.....so far

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If your clutch ain't slippin,, you probably got it adjusted right!!!!!

This is SO interesting!

I always said the weak link in my XT6 was the tstat location. the housing is the highest point in the system on an ER27 (even has it's own cap), and as a result, any bubble that gets in there, means the tstat doesn't open. It's what eventually killed the car.

The EJ/EG cars don't have nearly the cooling issues with the EA/ER ones, and I fully believe that the tstat location is a big part of that.



BUT, in your case, with the heater hoses blocked off, and the radiator mounted entirely above the engine, this is an excellent alternative. Very nice work!

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Subaru wiring: NumbchuxConversions

My heater hose is a loop to allow circulation...I also bypassed the throttle body, , this hose also is a loop to allow a cooler throttle body. My first suby engine,,,an ea81 has the thermostat in the top hose (same radiator). I think the thermostat in the bottom is fine for grocery getters. It is the continuous high revs that overcome the cooling system with the thermostat on the bottom.

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If your clutch ain't slippin,, you probably got it adjusted right!!!!!

Did you drill any holes in the thermostat?

,,

Yes,,,,because,,,,,the original thermostat would not fit in my homemade housing ( big spring making it kinda large) ,,,,the original thermostat has a little jiggler that will allow air to pass,,,but it would not fit in the homemade housing. However I had an aftermarket thermostat (170 btw) that would fit but it had no jiggler,,so I drilled a small hole ( maybe 1/8 or smaller) in it and oriented the hole to be at the top so air would pass through.

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If your clutch ain't slippin,, you probably got it adjusted right!!!!!

Ok, I was wondering about putting 2 holes in mine.
Mine is a ecotec. I replaced the stock thermostat housing with a aftermarket part mainly to relocate the radiator hose inlet and added a extra port for a gauge. You can not put a thermostat in the new one.
So I got thinking that I should have a thermostat. I got a inline housing. I was thinking that it would open sooner if it had some water flow by it so I drill a couple holes in it.
I wish I has seen yours before I bout mine.

It is odd that your aftermarket housing does not accept a thermostat. The inline housing does though,,,right,,,,cool,,,,put one there. I believe in thermostats..they help control the flow so the engine trys to stay at a comfortable temp. I prefer the thermostat on the return line to the radiator so it opens to allow hot water out to the radiator. Make sure it is not in backwards. Just my opinion though,,,,good luck.

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If your clutch ain't slippin,, you probably got it adjusted right!!!!!