Ok, having a concern. I'm bolting a new engine into a fresh 6 rib that I just got back from chuck jones. It goes together an can get top bolts tight but has about 1/8 gap at the bottom.


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Seems like the input shafts were longer or the bell housing swap issue

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I had chuck cut the input shaft off to what it's suppose to be. However I still like it could still be to long. Bolts get tight before case seats against the tranny. Don't like it at all.... Anyone know how long it's suppose to be from the splines to the end?


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That happened to me once. It turned out to be a bad line bore. But I bet you are using the wrong style pressure plate with the wrong throw out bearing.

I talked to Tim at southern buggys. Earlier an he told me I had the right throw out bearing. Running a Kennedy stage 3. I snugged the bottom bolts an with 2 plugs out you can't turn the engine over. It's binding against something. I loosened it enough that it started to free up. Took engine back off to see if I could see any signs of rubbing. No luck... Guess ill sleep on it an try again tomorrow.




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dont mess something up. make some phone calls! tim would know what p/p and so forth. jiggle the hell out of em sometime or turn the input shaft to get better teeth alignment . did you line the pressure plate and clutch up with "that tool"

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Spray paint every thing lightly then re install motor and spin, then remove motor and look for smeared paint. Bell housing, press plate, input shaft, everything! Maybe a different color for trans and motor sides.

Yea, I used "that tool" lol. It only likes closing up about an 1/8 in. At the bottom. Cage isn't on it so it's not hitting anything on the outside causing the inside to bind. This is my first build setting everything myself. A lot of people may go head an tighten it but I'm kinda skeptical. I know something is binding/rubbing, one thing is for sure i will figure it out. But wanted your guys opinions, sometimes it never hurts to listen. Once I figure it out ill post what it is.


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Never heard of that one before. I will need to give that a try sometime.

What bell housing are you using? 3 rib or a 6 rib? Have you verified that the input shaft was actually cut back?

If you loosen or even remove the top 2 bolts, will the bottom go in all the way in and leave the gap at the top?

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check and make sure t you have the correct starter for the bell housing that youre using.

did you put a little bit of grease on the input shaft and also try loosening your tranny mounts sometimes that helps tighten up after of coarse

Some of the aftermarket gland nuts have a shallow bore to them where the pilot bearing is. This may cause the transaxle input shaft to bottom out in the gland nut. Worth checking into if you have an aftermarket gland nut. You might have to take another 1/8 inch off of the input shaft.

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Guess pictures are not working with the app. Anyway thanks for all the replies. Here is what I've found, I do have a aftermarket scat chromoly gland nut. Looks like the input shaft is hitting pilot bearing on the taper going up to the splines. I've measured and have plenty of room for the input shaft it's not hitting crank.. Grind the taper of the splines back??? To accommodate the aftermarket pilot bearing?



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What I meant to say was some of the aftermarket crankshafts have a shallow bore on the end causing the input shaft to bottom out in the crank.
Some of the aftermarket gland nuts also have the pilot bearing installed at a different depth than the stock gland nut causing the input shaft to bottom out on the pilot bearing. Sounds like this may be your issue.

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I would not grind on the input shaft splines. I would switch it out to a 3 rib input shaft before i would grind on it. I think the 3 rib shafts have a shorter splined section than the 6 rib shafts if I remember correctly.

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At chucks jones, he's cutting splines back a little to allow for bearing. I think this will fix it


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Go back and delete the pic and it should show up


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Some imput shafts are different on the gear end I think. Not for sure though. I've allways cut the end of shaft off and taper it so it will slide in hole better. Lol


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Cutting the splines back worked! I have a scat gland nut in it now, the pilot bearing is at the very end of the gland but on the hex end. That being said a stock vw glam but is recessed towards the crank 3/16 which allows the input shaft plenty of room. Chuck said this is only 2nd time he's seen this. Just glad to be going in the right direction. Hope to throw some fuel an oil In her by end day Tuesday! Thanks guys for the input.


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Glad you got it. I have only seen this a couple of time myself.

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Thanks!


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GLAD YA GOT IT FIXED. I WAS ABOUT TO CHIME IN AND TALK ABOUT A NEEDLE BEARING FALLING LOOSE IN THE GLAND NUT.