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PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 8:27 pm 
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In all my years of buggying, I've never broke the end off of the pinion bearing.
Somethings wrong
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Busted nose cone and spit out plastic bearing spacer from mainshaft bearing
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Thats's the spacer, gotta love those weddle thrust plates, it's all that saved the gear stack
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Notice all the bearings no longer spaced, even though they are all there.
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Bellhousing removed and there lays a pinion nut with part of the pinion bearing in it
That was a very good pinion nut.
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Lucky me! the $1500 weddle gear stack is ok as is also the ring and pinion. Notice pinion nut with some of bearing in it.
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Called weddle and they want to see the bearing, as they have never heard of this happening, these were all new bearings 2 rides ago.
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 8:57 pm 
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that sucks!!!!! BUT, at least you still have most of your "goodies". Hopefully weddle will make it right.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 11:53 pm 
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Good one. But DON'T reuse the case.You know it has been overstressed or cracked somewhere.Mine would crack between the c/v hole and the lower rear corner (rt side).A weak case will let gears looze contact away from each other and then rip. Would you believe a motor with too much torque will micro twist your bell housing and make the starter gear contact too tight? Your gear will snap off on those new high torque starters.The guy at Kennedy Enginnering told me that after he got tired of me bad mouthing their starters.I had a Buick 3800 on it supported by the frame.Passat out


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 12:47 am 
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Hey thanks Passat,
I've got a buddy who just today bought a rail with a 2332 and the previous owner was having problems with the starter doing just that.
He was blaming it on the aftermarket lightened flywheel, I'll pass that along to him.
I've heard that the vanagon aircooled main case is stronger, any truth in that?
That is probably what I'll replace the maincase with.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 9:11 am 
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Yes, its stronger, buts its a type 4. get an aluminum case it yor after more strength.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 11:21 am 
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If you are talking about the TRANSMISSION main case then I would say no.That 3800 cracked 1 trans case every year in a side shift vanagon.I put a 1/8 piece of sheet metal between the bell housing and case on my sons buggy 5 years ago on his side shift an he 's still going with a 2100 cc and 38inch cut Boggers.But make sure the metal comes on out and secures to something. I had to park that 3800 until some one invented something new. I'm going chain drive with it now, so the chains and sprockets can relieve the stress.People ask me,"Why did you go with the front wheel drive longways with a shaft back to the independent diff?"I replied,"Oh I got tired of making California people rich."Reconsider my old post, Totally New Concept Buggy.But if you run a side shift look for ACW on the lower driver side corner just fwd of the c/v hole. It means its got a 4 spyder diff in it.All others are 2 spyder.Oh,and go back to a stock clutch with springs in the middle with a medium pressure plate.A heavy pressure plate wears out the thrust cut on your main bearring saddle on your motor.Someone told me about some kinda inline hydraulic valve or gadget that releases the pressure plate slowly to prevent violet snatches to help your whole drive train.I'll look in to that.I sure could have used that on the Buick. That big iron V6 had some MEAN torque but was UNDRIVABLE. It was too heavy and did too easy of uncommanded wheelies on a hill.Passat out.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 11:45 am 
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It's a suby 2.2l stage 1 kep plate with kushlock disk,091 german 4 spider diff, 486 r&p, 930's, 16x35x15 boggers.
I'll probably use the vanagon ac maincase I have and convert to end shift, a new alum case is $695 and weddle has no used ones.
I really think the pinion bearing musta' had a flaw.
The right tire hit a gully wall while fully wound out in 1st gear climbing coal hill at bittercreek.
It also pooped the snap ring out from the inner bearing on the stub axle, making the tire rub.
You would think it would have broke 1st gear or the r&p instead of jerking the end off the pinion bearing.
All in all I'm very lucky, and that hardy ever happens with me.
But hey, I made the hill.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 30, 2009 7:45 pm 
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Weddle stepped up to the plate, their replacing the bearing.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 09, 2012 6:04 pm 
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Well, I've done it again, jerked another german pinion bearing housing into 2 pieces.
I've figured all of the weaknesses that an 091 can have and modified every weakness so those won't break.
I have no idea how to keep a pinion bearing from breaking into 2 pieces, it breaks just where the threads bottom out.
Main problems, heavy buggy,35/15.5/15 cut boggers, and too many beers.
I wonder if someone makes pinion bearing housings from 300m material.
Eric any ideas?
One thing, I'm gonna have that heavy Subaru flywheel lightened.
I've been lucky both times, my $1500 weddle gearset has survived both times, thrust plates work.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 09, 2012 9:20 pm 
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Damn, Bill! Was that on the Suby?

You comin' to Windrock with us the 27th thru the 30th of this month?

Dale H.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 9:11 am 
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Yep,it was the suby and I hope to be there.
Bill

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 10:58 am 
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Never break or buy a trans again.Run front wheel drive with a stock bus cv shaft going back to a irs Ford 9" diff turned upside down.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 9:30 pm 
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where do you get a 9" irs?

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 10:41 pm 
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2800passat wrote:
Never break or buy a trans again.Run front wheel drive with a stock bus cv shaft going back to a irs Ford 9" diff turned upside down.

If I was starting from scratch, I would probably do that.
I still kind of amazed, that I can build an 091 so that the strength of the pinion bearing housing is now the weakest part.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 11:15 pm 
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from a newer Lincoln Cont. at Pull a Part.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 12:01 am 
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that would be an 8.8" but still a pretty strong diff.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 1:33 am 
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hey maddog have you tried having the steel sleeve mod done to case where the pinion fits?

also what bearings is it fag, skf, nsk, ntn, fafnir,timken, federal, etc......... might try a different brand if you can find one that will work :?

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 9:37 am 
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Nearly all bearrings say china these days on the back of the box.But what can you do. Even Motion Industries MSC books are Chineese bearings. :cry:


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 10:22 am 
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ridenrace6 wrote:
hey maddog have you tried having the steel sleeve mod done to case where the pinion fits?

also what bearings is it fag, skf, nsk, ntn, fafnir,timken, federal, etc......... might try a different brand if you can find one that will work :?

1st time was a new fag from weedle, made in Hungary, I believe.
2nd time was a good used fag [later style] made in Germany.
The pinion bearing bore is tight in my case, I don't think a steel sleeve would have helped.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 8:31 pm 
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Are you tightening the nut with an impact or a torque wrench?


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 8:14 am 
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:shock: Maybe you shold try a different brand beer! once was bad enough, now ya did it again? What did weddle have to say last time? bad bearing?

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 8:28 am 
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Damn, I'd have to try something different assembly-wise! Give Chuck Jones a call, he can set ya straight.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 10:30 am 
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Aaron Creech wrote:
Are you tightening the nut with an impact or a torque wrench?

Weedle replaced the 1st bearing, this one was original german oem later style.
I have been torquing it to about 230-250 lbs [large flange chromo nut] as Eric has suggested.
There is nothing wrong with my assembly skills, I've just reached all that an 091 is capable of.
Everything rotating in the trans is weedle, except the bearings, ring and pinion.
I could always abuse it hard, til I mounted the 15.5/35/15 cut boggers on this 2000lb + buggy.
Considering what I was doing both times, something had to break, it is just that the pinion bearing now seems to be my weak point in the trans.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 7:06 pm 
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Have you considered putting a tapered style bearing on the small end of the pinion shaft to take a little load off the pinion bearing. I do this to all the type 1 drag trannies I build and it really helps with forward movement of the pinion.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 11:20 pm 
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Aaron Creech wrote:
Have you considered putting a tapered style bearing on the small end of the pinion shaft to take a little load off the pinion bearing. I do this to all the type 1 drag trannies I build and it really helps with forward movement of the pinion.

I'm not familiar with that setup, does weedle have that bearing?
How would I get info on that setup?
I rebuilt the tranny today, turns out I had put another made in Hungary bearing in, It now has a made in Germany bearing in it.
I really need to get my suby to VW flywheel lightened, it is very heavy.

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