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PostPosted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 3:24 pm 
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Any body use the bracket that mounts the lower end of the slave cylinder that supposenly corrects the angle of of the clutch arm? I ask because because no matter what I do I can not get my clutch to engauge before the very top. I am using a Kennady stage 2 with a brand new Cushlock. The flywheel has been recently ground on both the mounting and friction surfaces. I had the same issue with it before I replaced the clutch from when it started slipping. I believe this issue is the reason it went the first time. The only thing different is the bracket. I am thinking maybe its not allowing the arm to be pulled back enough. My free play is 1/8"

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 3:55 pm 
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I've had best luck setting hydraulic clutches right at the point where there is no free play, then lock down the jamb nut. I know cable set ups needs a little , but I had same problem with hydro you are having until I started doing this.

It works on all three of our buggies and they are all hydro w/ KEP plates and Kushloks. No fancy brackets, though.

Larry


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 6:33 pm 
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you need more freeplay if you want it to grab before the top


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 8:17 am 
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i've got that bracket, and its no cure-all. in fact, I think it is more out of line now than b-4. But it is shiney, and chicks dig it.... so it may be worth it after-all.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 11:26 am 
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sdbillyg wrote:
you need more freeplay if you want it to grab before the top


You are right, I m just saying how to set up the slave cylinder to make it feel right, at least to me, and the four or five other people who's buggies Ive done.
Why would you not want the clutch to engage/disengage near the top anyways? As long as it aint AT the top to where its slipping, I would not want to have to push clutch half way down or more when I want to shift, or slip it a little when climbing.

Larry


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 7:18 pm 
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I didnt say you was doing it wrong set it up how you like it.I thought he wanted it to catch more towards the middle so he needs more play to do that.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 9:27 pm 
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hmmmmm i know the perfect answer for all of u do away with the clutch and just jamm it in gear :D




haahaha just joking just thought id put my 2 cents

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 05, 2008 9:16 am 
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kybuggy1 wrote:
I've had best luck setting hydraulic clutches right at the point where there is no free play, then lock down the jamb nut. I know cable set ups needs a little , but I had same problem with hydro you are having until I started doing this.

It works on all three of our buggies and they are all hydro w/ KEP plates and Kushloks. No fancy brackets, though.

Larry


Larry with this method does the throwout bearing tend to engauge after the clutch and trans get hot. ? Have you had any issue with the throwout bearing going after awhile.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 05, 2008 9:33 am 
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No, not that I have noticed. Koko's 2387 has I think three years on the same t/o bearing. It made a little noise ride before last, but stopped and was fine last weekend. Dont set it with absolutely no free play at all, just where you can grab the clutch arm and pull it maybe a 1/16" , then give the adjuster nut another half a turn tighter. Thats what works for me, anyways.

Larry


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