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 Post subject: Gearing
PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2015 11:01 am 
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Location: F***** PA
Ok..
I am by far no expert on transmissions/gearing..
Not to say I have not done my due diligence on attempting, I am no spring chicken here.
I just can't get the understanding of gear ratios..

With that said.. I ride in Trevorton PA. Mostly trail and some playing on coal hill. Coal hill is, well take a look, loose rock. NOT ME BUT FOR REF>>>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z-2FuwgvULk

I put in an ecotec 2 years ago and love it.. But I have blown 2 6 ribs so far. This time was because I was practicing 2nd gear launchs and shattered it. (to much right foot and not enough left foot) I think mostly operator error. Learning curve. Call it what you will. stupidity

Some of the guys I ride with run a three rib and swear by the gear ratios are better in the 3 rib vs the 6 rib, they say the 6 rib sucks for gear ratios, and strength of the 3 rib over the 6 rib cuz they beat the snot out of there buggy with big dub motors.
Their knowledge over mine when it comes to buggies is way better but I have been into VDUBS for 20+ years and buggies for 6 years.
I don't have a ton of dough but a budget of maybe 12-1500 bucks to upgrade/rebuild my trans. (was going to buy a 4 seater frame with that money) I now have all winter as I am moving into a new house and this is now my last ride. Save some pennies.
One of my friends just had one built and it cost him way up in the $4500 range. (all...ALL Weddle) DON'T have that money.
I don't want to start a 3/6 rib debate just looking for some sound advice on rear rations 1 & 2nd (31x15x15.5 v treads).
I was looking to go to Rancho and get there pro bus trans 3 rib.
I think also I need to change to a stock clutch and get rid of the 6 puck, still keep the kennedy 1 Pressure plate.
Actually thought about getting the JIG and rebuild myself or just going Subygears.
Thx Guys.
I know passat.... baby chains....

Looking at you transmission guys as to what/where I need to be.

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 Post subject: Re: Gearing
PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2015 2:30 pm 
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:lol:


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 Post subject: Re: Gearing
PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2015 2:50 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 25, 2014 5:05 am
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Location: Pittsburgh,Pa.
I was eating transmissions every season because
of not pushing the clutch after a launch. Once
you start remembering to push the clutch, the
transmission issues almost go away...sort of.
Your tire size makes it even worse. Wide tires
and heavy rear weight are great for traction...
which is why you are ruining transmissions.


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 Post subject: Re: Gearing
PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2015 4:15 pm 
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jimp,
Sorry for miss explaining.. I ment launch from a stop not in the air.. :D I did exactly what the guy did in the video.. Rolled in, stopped, 2nd gear, rolled and snap goes 2nd. now sounds like a fork in the garbage disposal.

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 Post subject: Re: Gearing
PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2015 8:45 pm 
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Stock first in a 6 rib with some 31's is good for 30+ mph if you need it... Why use second?

If you expect anything that says VW to hold the abuse of 2nd gear "launches" you are gonna buy alot more 6 ribs... or alot of clutches either way...


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 Post subject: Re: Gearing
PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 5:57 am 
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BAJABUGNUT wrote:
jimp,
Sorry for miss explaining.. I ment launch from a stop not in the air.. :D I did exactly what the guy did in the video.. Rolled in, stopped, 2nd gear, rolled and snap goes 2nd. now sounds like a fork in the garbage disposal.


I risk stating the obvious, but are you dumping the
clutch rather than slowly letting out the clutch? You have
to slowly release the clutch in order to take the backlash
out of the drive train.


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 Post subject: Re: Gearing
PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 10:40 am 
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call weddle. they can explain it and already know what gears you want. even if you don't buy it from them, its worth the call. this is all they do.

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 Post subject: Re: Gearing
PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 1:11 pm 
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Honestly,
I am still trying to get used to this thing, the clutch set up I have I am not sure I like, it seems more on off than slip. going to try stock clutch with my current pp when I replace the trans. Where we climb, its good to have the wheel speed.

Our sub base is loose baseball and smaller sized slag/rock/shale/dust. 1st gear is screaming and is ok for short burst up the hill but to do the big hill, you need wheel speed. The tires maybe moving 31 mph but the buggy maybe going 5 mph..

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 Post subject: Re: Gearing
PostPosted: Wed Aug 19, 2015 6:56 pm 
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The answer is kinda simple, you need to swap out your 4:56 ring and pinion for say a 4:86, 5:13 (diesel) or even numerically higher R&P. The higher the R&P number the shorter first gear becomes, read the shorter distance traveled from launch to 1-2 gear shift.

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 Post subject: Re: Gearing
PostPosted: Fri Aug 21, 2015 10:42 am 
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Buy a torsional input shaft from weddle. I have everything weddle in my 6 rib but the r &p. I've blown the pinion nut off 3 times ruining my r&p. I have 2 hard seasons on it with the torsional input shaft and it's holding so far.


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 Post subject: Re: Gearing
PostPosted: Fri Aug 21, 2015 12:34 pm 
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Location: bardstown, ky.
I put one in mine last time plus I got my fingers crossed

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 Post subject: Re: Gearing
PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2015 8:40 am 
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MadMike wrote:
The answer is kinda simple, you need to swap out your 4:56 ring and pinion for say a 4:86, 5:13 (diesel) or even numerically higher R&P. The higher the R&P number the shorter first gear becomes, read the shorter distance traveled from launch to 1-2 gear shift.

Madmike,
I wish it were that simple... Me trying to figure this out is like someone standing next to a bucket of water with their hand on fire and not sure what to do. I know enough to hold a conversation but understanding it is another world.

To see if I understand- so if I put in a higher R/P, I will get more wheel speed not top end.. so if I cruise say at 1500 rpm I will now do the same at SAY..... 1700 rpm. And taking off at the bottom of a hill will give me the wheel speed.....

I had about 5 runs up it in 2nd but I was drifting/moving a bit and I was feathering the clutch in the beginning of the run, once I got going, nail it and bam and I was flying up the hill.

The last time I was to aggressive, got into it to early and pop went 2nd.

So smaller R/P, 1 and 2nd weddle, superdif change to cushlock clutch plate, and look into a torsional input shaft.
How prevalent is a 4.86 R/P or even diesel R/P for a 6 rib?

Thx for all your input guys...

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 Post subject: Re: Gearing
PostPosted: Tue Aug 25, 2015 9:24 pm 
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Location: Florence ky
SUBARU! lol.

Just saying. I spent over 4 in my trans for
Weddle first and second
Greman superdiff
Kennedy 4 puck clutch and pp.
Input torsioning shaft.
Stock 6 rib r&p
Supposed to be good to 300 hp.
I plan on pushing 260-280hp
Out of a sc 2.4 but from what I hear I should be good.

However could of had a subaru for
500-800
And reverse r&p and a couple other goodies
And had a lot less then 4k in it.

Just my thoughts. Good info in yhis thread though!

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 Post subject: Re: Gearing
PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2015 1:23 pm 
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a stock trans can handle 500 HP with the right driver, a built trans can break with 100 HP from the wrong driver! don't think just because somebody claims it will handle "X" HP, that it wont break with less.

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 Post subject: Re: Gearing
PostPosted: Sat Aug 29, 2015 9:26 pm 
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Well I made one of those lists.... or both maybe... hahahaha ;)


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 Post subject: Re: Gearing
PostPosted: Sat Aug 29, 2015 9:35 pm 
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The guys at rancho sat me down and had a talk with me after the second transmission warranty (in all fairness they fixed my 3 rib twice for free and they knew it was in a buggy)....

They pretty much told me that 300 hp rating is based on wheel slip (a.k.a. sand). They told me you have 2 options how we play... spin the wheels or blow the trans... They pretty much said traction is the VW trans axles killer...

A light buggy with 33's throws dirt and a heavy buggy with 33's throws bearings....


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 Post subject: Re: Gearing
PostPosted: Sat Aug 29, 2015 9:47 pm 
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Lol!!! You got that right!!!

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