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PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 4:06 pm 
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Okay I finally got my clutch and pressure plate that fit the flywheel. Me and my dad tried to fit the motor up today and ran into another problem. The motor would not go on all the way it lacked about 3/4 inch and we moved it around forever trying to get it to go over the pilot bearing and no luck. After looking for awhile to try and figure out what was causing it not to go on we discovered the pressure plate didn't have a big enough hole to go over the sleeve that is on the transmission where the throw out bearring rides. The pressure plate hole is approx 1 1/4 and the sleeve is approx 1 3/8 to 1 1/2. The transxle is a 5 rib with front shift and the motor is a 1972. I ordered the clutch pressure plate and throwout beaarring from autozone since they were telling me they were all the same for several years. In the papers for the pressure plate it says doesn't show the sleeve or whatever you call the piece in the center of the pressure plate that the fingers push. Can this piece come out. Any info would be greatly appreciated.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 4:15 pm 
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Sounds to me like you have wrong pressure plate.does your pressure plate have 3 arms that come out to a round plate in the center,or does it have a bunch of little fingers in the center with or without a round plate in center? Chad :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 4:21 pm 
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It has alot of little fingers and the sleeve in the center. I was wondering if I could take the sleeve out of the center but wasn't sure.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 4:30 pm 
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You need the one with out the center plate. Your is for the older style trans.it runs a different type throw out bearing.the sleeve on the trans is for the throw out bearing to keep aligned up. Don't know if you can just remove ring from the new plate and make it work or not but hate to tear a new one up if it won't work.maybe someone else will chime in. Chad :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 5:05 pm 
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Typically the friction ring is held in place from behind with a spiro wound clip that you unscrew so to speak. You will have to remove the pressure plate to gain access to the spiro ring.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 5:28 pm 
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I had a simular problem the guys i ride with said i could remove the ring again this is whatvi was told im no expert


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 5:40 pm 
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No clue on the whole story here. But wrong gland nut will cause this too depending on the setup. Make sure that isnt bottoming out on the shaft .

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 6:31 pm 
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Jayrod don't think it is bottoming out on the shaft. I think I will try and just remove the friction ring or whatever you call it. I threw away the box it came with thinking I had the right clutch and pressure plate so I am stuck with it either way.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 7:16 pm 
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easy to remove. just make sure you get the correct throw out bearing.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2013 1:25 pm 
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yes, you can remove it

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2013 5:14 pm 
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Well I pulled the center sleeve out today and motor went on fine, but have another problem now the engine is all the way up to the transaxle and the bottom two engine studs are to short to go through the bus transaxle and the bus adapter brace which is only approx 1/4 inch. Do they make longer studs for the bottom of the motor? I am about ready to push this thing out of my shop and light a fire under it. UGHHHHH


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2013 11:19 pm 
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Trials and tribulations of buggy building, suck it up and move on as the net result will make you smile as you running down the trail. Buy a 1' long piece of metric grade 10.8 all thread rod and cut it to length. You can order it from McMaster Carr if you can not get it locally.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 16, 2013 10:29 am 
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OR.. you can find a junk 1.7-2.0L bus engine in the junk yard and pull the studs out of it and install them into your motor. This is a common thing that you have to deal with. Not out of the ordinary.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 16, 2013 11:45 am 
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Now there's a novel Ideal lol. :mrgreen:

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