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PostPosted: Tue Feb 05, 2013 1:46 pm 
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I've finally got my buggy running like a top! Now to figure out the shifting issue.... It is a 3 rib bus transaxle with an "EMPI" Shift box. The gear pattern is VERY tight. First gear is very difficult to find, and sometimes it simply will not go into first. Reverse is WAY to easy to get.... I know nothing about the shifting system. Do any of you fine gentlemen have any pointers??


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 05, 2013 2:29 pm 
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Linkage might just need adjusted. Id check that first.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 05, 2013 2:45 pm 
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shift coupler wore out?

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 05, 2013 2:51 pm 
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post some pics of the shifter setup and the connection at the trans, i agree that it sounds like worn parts or a misadjustment somewhere

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 05, 2013 5:04 pm 
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check the set screw where the shift rod connects to the trans, then take it loose and see how it shifts with vice grips.Some of those old 538' had a steel ball inside the nose cone that would get really sloppy and cause it. Nothing to do with your trans but if a trans is hard to get into ANY gear while driving except 4th, then your clutch is stuck to the flywheel not letting the gears slow down enough to change.(1 purpose of thick gear oil).(4th is basicly 1:1 so it will always shift easy).The way to free it up is jack 1 wheel off the ground, crank motor while in 1st then release the floor jack.Jack both wheels if you have a stuck brake drum.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 05, 2013 5:11 pm 
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I vote adjustment, since the pattern is tight.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 05, 2013 8:58 pm 
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the adjustment just inside the gear dope hole?


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 1:08 am 
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As far as I can tell, everything seems to be fine in the shifter box. I will try the idea posted above. Do these help?

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 11:04 am 
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I have never used a shift box like that one but the ball in the nose cones on some 002 transmissions were plastic and they do fail. I usually try to avoid EMPI products.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 11:16 am 
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i had an early 538 once that had a steel ball that looked like an egg .I asked a machinist to make me one and as he was lathing it I called the stealer and they had it for 80 cents!lol. He unchucked the 1/2 square 1/2 round steel ball and threw it at me as I went out the door.lol. that was about 1991.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 12:47 pm 
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post pics of the connection at the tranny also, however those shift boxes (well the jamar brand at least) tend to feel stiff and it shouldnt go in reverse without holding down on the "small black button" which i personally find very annoying/difficult especially if your in a "situation". if it were mine i would eject that shifter all together and put in regular shift box and scat shifter or if money was and issue i would use a shortened stock shifter

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 12:53 pm 
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Chris my thoughts exactly

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 3:45 pm 
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Where is this "Ball" located that could be deformed? Anyone have a shortened factory shifter by chance???? Yeah.... reverse is SUPER easy to get. Second is tough, third pretty easy, and 4th is really easy. Now, I'm tearing down the buggy for a rewire and frame repair. I'm going to need some pointers with the rewire! I'll post in the wiring section.


Chris, I need to give you a call back!




This forum has been a GREAT help!!!


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 5:42 pm 
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The plastic ball is under the nose cone and it connects the golf club to the gear selection forks. It sounds like a replacement shifter and box may solve this problem with out tearing into the trans.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2013 2:21 am 
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Red Barron wrote:
The plastic ball is under the nose cone and it connects the golf club to the gear selection forks. It sounds like a replacement shifter and box may solve this problem with out tearing into the trans.

agreed, im thinking something is monkeyed up in the shifter itself

you say it goes in reverse easy but does it go in reverse without even mashing the button?

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2013 11:45 am 
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Red Barron wrote:
The plastic ball is under the nose cone and it connects the golf club to the gear selection forks. It sounds like a replacement shifter and box may solve this problem with out tearing into the trans.




Yes... It goes into revers with out pushing anything. It's the easiest gear to get into... haha. Where is the "nose cone"? First I'll try a different shifter. Anyone have one laying around? Have a good link for said shifter?

If that doesn't fix it then I'll check this "ball" out... I have a 3 rib bus by the way.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2013 11:53 am 
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Don't even mess with the trans until you have a replacement shifter and box installed. Look on Appletree, Mooreparts.com, or Pasificcustom.com. Get a replacement coupler for the nose connection and if budget allows get the adjustable shift rod kit to weld in it will make adjusting the shifter easier.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 9:38 am 
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check this link out it may help you.

http://www.outfrontmotorsports.com/shif ... e_tips.htm

it could be anyone of the issues that the other guys have mentioned before me.
but try this to see if it helps first.
good luck and i hope this fixes the issue for you.
also, if you got someone to give you an extra hand that will be helpful as well


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 10:30 am 
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disconnect the shifter and shift with vice grips to rule out shifter. Then remove trans then nose cone. Inside if it ain't the ball or the bronze bushing that the "golf club " rides in , I've had that big , 2.5" ball bearring go bad where the balls are laying over to one side and the shaft is laying over to the other side a little. A cracked nose cone. Trans not mounted snug. Long ago I noticed that if it's hard to get in 3rd then a pinion bearing was on it's way out.


Last edited by 2800passat on Thu Feb 14, 2013 10:53 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 10:46 am 
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2800passat wrote:
disconnect the shifter and shift with vice grips to rule out shifter. Then remove trans then nose cone. Inside if it ain't the ball or the bronze bushing that the "golf club " rides in , I've had that big , 2.5" ball bearring is bad and the shaft is laying over to the side a little.

I'm ya boi! yer olest boi! nama carl.At DD yoosta have busted 538's stacked up like cord wood, ummmhm.The mostess he could keep one back in the 90's was 2.5 rides. He hated em a good bit and what not.ummm.Then he took a notion to take suma the biggons...Yessir.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2013 1:36 am 
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im with red barron, i wouldnt fool with anything ele till i got the shifter changed out, if its going in reverse without mashing the button something is most likely screwed up in the shifter, if it was out adjustment that bad it probably wouldnt swing enough in the other direction to get 3rd and 4th

for parts you can check the places red barron posted or drews offroad in ohio, davis motorsports in indiana, southern buggys in kentucky, the speed shop in tennesse, mitchells vw service center here in bama, or dans performance in california all of which are sponsors here on woodsbuggy

here is another place in cali with links to the parts i would suggest

shift rod and adjuster
http://www.piersideparts.net/BP5529.html

shift rod coupler "early style"
http://www.piersideparts.net/BP5548.html

or the "late style" coupler (the one i prefer)

http://www.piersideparts.net/CB6110.html

with this adjuster (6th pic)
http://www.dansperformanceparts.com/bug ... shift2.htm

shifter box
http://www.piersideparts.net/BP5503.html

shift box bushing
http://www.piersideparts.net/BP5506.html

shifter i prefer
http://www.piersideparts.net/SE80500.html

cheaper option i would consider (just shorten the handle)
http://www.piersideparts.net/113798121A.html

but stay away from empi, jamar, and latest rage (there basically the same quality just repackaged) brand parts as much as possible

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2013 9:38 am 
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I have a super shifter, that looks very similar to that one, mine is adjusted so I don't use the button.
Of course 3 and 4 are pretty far to the right.

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