http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1252462

Good idea or bad? I am re working the quality of my shift... I have the Drag Fast shifter and the normal shift box that goes back to a badly worn coupler... I was about to order a new urethane shift coupler...

thanks

I would buy it? But I guess the stock square urethane bushings work also.

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

One guy says it will vibrate but seems like the tighter you get the linkage the better the shift...

not sure which to get... guess I will do more research... and order one or the other tomorrow...

You could always replace the stock hollow pine with a bolt and nylock and use the square urethane style. The round Empi style suck do not buy it. the inserts beak lose from the urethane and then say goodbye to 3 &4.

_________________
Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

I hate to hijack your post, but I easily fabbed a side shift last month. I unbolted the yellow ball and re-installed it pointing up of coarse. Then took the factory shift rod and drove the roll pin out of the bottom of the cup, and rotated the cup 180 degrees and re-installed the cup with grease and slipped them over each other. Then ran the shift rod thru a hole in some 1/8" plate bolted to the side of the nose cone.The rest of the shift rod ended where a regular shifter would sit and ran it thru an old VW rod turned up side down. I'll have pics some time this week.Just got a new camera.

I will try the bolt in place of the pine and screw... it that gets it tight I guess no need to spend the 50.00 right now... if not I am going for the billet connector...

let me know what you guys think?

Cool man it is always about stretching the shrinking dollar. If you have the stock rubber squares they maybe shot. I have run the red urethane square bushings.. I think I am also going to remove the stock fastener with a bolt and nylock nut

_________________
Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

Yeah, I bet the rubber is shot... but I will start with the bolt and see... Not sure of the size and all, but I will pull it apart this weekend and see.

looks cool and all but i have yet to see one of them bolts come out on a stock one once it is screwed into the sleeve!99 percent of the time you cant see that in the rail anyway, i'd go with the stock one myself

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ANTI- antifreeze!!!!!!

Curiosity got to me... I orderd one. Will let you guys know if its a waste or not....

OK guys, I got the coupler today and I plan to try it out tonight (at least the install)... It is really nice, high quality stuff...

for now here is some of the guys info: (Note... I went with the 10mm option for curiosity)

I now have 2 options with this part. It comes standard with a 3/8 shoulder bolt cross shaft which is what will be shipped if you do not specify. This will bolt right in to your 64-79 type 1 car.
OR...
you can drill the shift shaft to 13/32 and use the supplied 10 mm shoulder bolt cross shaft to restore your shift shaft cross bolt hole to round. After a minimum of 35 years of shifts there is bound to be some wear in your hole...

Please specify which option you desire.

Item fits 1964-1979 type 1. It will fit earlier cars with a shift rod swap.

$40 shipped to your door for the first one, all others in the box ship free, $35.00 for the 2nd, up to 6 total (that's how many I can fit in the box). If the ride is paid for, let em hitch!

International orders welcome, $55 for the first one, The rest (up to 6 total)$35 each

Made in the USA!
NoBars@aol.com







Install pics will follow later tonight...

OK a few pics then questions.... I cant seem to get any movement out of my shifter (which is what brought me to the coupler)...



Yes I know... I broke the drill bit (cheap)






Should I have a bushing here?




Ok... so when I move the shifter side to side in neutral I don't think its swinging far enough to get out of first/second... I do feel it slop into reverse when the trigger is up though but trigger down it feels locked in first and second stroke...

I shoved some cardboard in the gap where the shift rod comes out and it helped... so I am wondering if a bushing goes there... or any ideas?

looks like my shift rod is bent slightly to the right I can lay it on its side and see a bow, then roll it over to see it bow the other way... Also the shift rod bushing has a crack on the bottom (is this normal).

So now I am wondering should I straighten the rod or get another one. also what is the best way to be sure the shifter box is welded in square for the trans? I want to be sure all is in line.

I will be working on this thing forever..

there are a few ways to go about this but if it were mine i would get a new bushing for the shifter box (by the way the one you have is on backwards) and a new shift rod plus an adjuster

mock it all up and weld in the shifter box on an angle (rear higher than front) or make some brackets to raise up the shift box so the shaft runs level

_________________
Just Stand On It!!!!

Chris

I will take the advice... These parts look ok?

http://www.pacificcustoms.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=AC711995

http://www.pacificcustoms.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=AC711991

http://www.pacificcustoms.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=AC710002L

Also you say the bushing was backwards, you mean the round part goes facing into the shift box?

And as far as the shift box being level to the nose cone of the tranny... It's pretty darn close to perfect I think... But I will check agn though...

Thanks for the thoughts... I was saving up for my wire harness but I need this right first.

I just ordered the parts above... looks like to be what I need... I want to do this right... Or else it will come back to bite me.

thanks for helping me. I will just wait for the parts... I still don't have a welder... but I bet my local muffler shop will hook me up on this one.

More to follow when I have the parts.

yep just the parts i had in mind, and yeah the "lip" on the bushing should fit snugly in the hole on the back of the shifter box

one more bit of info is when your measure and mocking up for shift rod length make sure your adjuster is set about center on the threads so you have equal adjustment both in and and out

_________________
Just Stand On It!!!!

Chris

Parts are in, I made a few quick cuts and just need someone to weld it up for me now... I did as you said... I put the adjustable ens at about the middle, then held the shifter cup (whatever its called) in about the center of the shifter box hole made a mark and cut (knowing perfect was not needed due to the adjustable end)..


Few pics: (more will follow when I get it welded and put paint on it (should I paint?)...

thanks for you help and ideas...















sorry, I like the pics... hoping this may help someone sometime or another...

looking good, that is how i did mine except i used a sweet mfg steering u-joint i had and welded a locking coller on each end that i cut off of 2 old factory style couplers in place of that new aluminum piece you have, and with a new scat dragfast shifter it has been the best shifting setup i have ever driven in a vw setup so far

also i painted mine and it was a little tight/stiff in the bushing but with a spray lube and some use it lossened right up

_________________
Just Stand On It!!!!

Chris

OK so I was able to get it welded on and I have mocked up the shifter... in order for me to get reverse to lock out and 1st and 2nd to line up I had to drill a hole and knock the lockout plate over about 2mm... after that it glided up and down in 1st and second and would slide over into 3rd and 4th... reverse was locked out and the trigger engaged it. So now what I am looking at is the slant in the shift rod due tot he fact that the trans is higher than the shift box... should I keep as is and let the new bushing wear in or cut the shift box out and weld in a bit higher so its horizontal?







I need a welder... I wish I could afford one right now...

Seeing as you don't have a welder I would lube it and let it eat. If you have access to some one with a welder then you can cut the box lose and tilt it to match the angle of the shifter rod, that is what I did.

_________________
Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

thanks... I will keep it as is for now but know what I need to do to get it better... Its already way better than it was...

would one of those 110 flux core welders be good enough for 120 wall tube and the tabs and brackets like this?

If you are going that route get a good machine like a Miller that can be used 110 or 220. Or you can get one like I have that is a SP125 Plus by Lincon it work real well for buggies. The 110 units have a shorter duty cycle but it doesn't sound like you are going to be building a bridge. Check Craigs list and call your local welding supply sometimes you can get a demo unit less expensive.

_________________
Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

Just bend or bow your shift rod down, til it's level.

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A good friend will bail you out of jail. A best friend will be sitting next to you saying: "Damn that was fun!"



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A5wGMaUMXUQ

I was a welder once upon a time... no need in my life right now to have something hard core... I just want something compact... I dont have 220 only normal house 110... so if I could get something that will do 120 wall or some frame repair when needed and then put it back away when not used... I just dont have the space...

miller is a great name, but with a cost... I will look on craigslist and see what I can find... I know a local welder (guy who welded the shift rod) he said he may know someone that will make a house call... thing is I feel like I will be doing lots of things like this... and trips back and forth would cost me a small fortune I bet...


let me know if you run across a deal on something that fits my problem... thanks for taking the time to give me some guidance too... I keep telling my kids they will love this thing once I get it to run... but each time I take a step forward it seems like its 10 steps back... hope I catch a break ...

its getting there....