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PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 10:07 pm 
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Location: rittman,ohio ----------- wellsville, water cooled chapter
I have been researching the best suggested way to race prep and other things you can do to get the most angle , strength .... Ect out of a type 2 .
I am wonder if you guys have any suggested tricks up your sleeves that might help on this subject ?
Thanks for any help !

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 10:19 pm 
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Location: Jemison, Alabama
Touchy subject lol...The most problem I run into is breaking cages, and occasionally the bolts want to work their way loose. I was buying the 17 degree (most common) bus joints, but Keith introduced me to a German joint that cost about 20.00 more, but has a 22 degree angle along with a chromoly cage. Since I have run this joint, the breaks have been few and far between. It sold me! What have you found out since you been researching it?

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 10:26 pm 
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i took my bearing housing loose put a washer on top between trailin arm and housing tighen it and tack welded it it took some of the angle out still run stock bus joints it seems to work good

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 19, 2011 9:26 am 
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Location: rittman,ohio ----------- wellsville, water cooled chapter
The most I have found is were to debure and some say to polish any part that moves .
I was hoping to get some more feedback on this !

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 19, 2011 7:21 pm 
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Location: mooers hill IN
giveitagallon wrote:
The most I have found is were to debure and some say to polish any part that moves .
I was hoping to get some more feedback on this !

Polish everything The star where the ball ride and the top so the cage does not hangup debure the cage and polish . polish polish debure and poilish all parts . Clock the two cv on the axle . PS mark all parts before you take a part so you get the star & cage & outer togthere right.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 19, 2011 11:28 pm 
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Location: selmer tn. pickwick tn.
i have been running bus joints for ever,and the only time i see them break is when u dont have a stop on the trailing arms or limit straps,and i dont put both clips on my axles i jus use 1 on the tranny side and i dont break cvs but about 2 times a year and we ride 3 or 4 times a month


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2011 7:55 am 
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Chris you should be a 930 salesman :shock: o wait never mind :lol: :lol:


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 8:39 pm 
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Location: Bakersfield Ca
Type 4's will take more angle then type 2's .They are a little more money though.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 9:02 pm 
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Location: batavia ohio 45103
went to 930s....will never go with anything else again....grease them and forget them...

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 10:17 pm 
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chris38375 wrote:
i dont break cvs but about 2 times a year and we ride 3 or 4 times a month

rockrockets1 wrote:
Chris you should be a 930 salesman


LOL, if you go with 930's you may not be changing them... say 10 years of riding @ 2 per year= 20 bus cv's @ avg. of $55... $1,100 :shock:

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 10:25 pm 
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Make sure you have stops, the rite angle, and run clips only on the inners! Haven't had any trouble in over a year!

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 12:58 am 
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Location: Bakersfield Ca
I've broke alot of 930's most were just old an worn out.Beware of the empi cv's had no luck with them.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 5:01 pm 
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Location: selmer tn. pickwick tn.
A. Cole wrote:
chris38375 wrote:
i dont break cvs but about 2 times a year and we ride 3 or 4 times a month

rockrockets1 wrote:
Chris you should be a 930 salesman


LOL, if you go with 930's you may not be changing them... say 10 years of riding @ 2 per year= 20 bus cv's @ avg. of $55... $1,100 :shock:

bus joints for me are free,ive got atleast 20 jus layin around in the shop,cost about 700 bucks to change over to 930s it aint gonna make u climb hills better


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 10:00 pm 
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Dee Ell wrote:
I've broke alot of 930's most were just old an worn out.Beware of the empi cv's had no luck with them.


Your a rare breed... You break, or damage I should say alot of S@#t :D

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