I bought DVS1's old buggy about a month ago. Chevy 400 and 75 Caddillac eldorado transmission. I was told that it has a 1500rpm stall converter in it, which seems correct.

When pointing it at a hill or something the motor never really gets into it's 'sweet spot', and is always lugging. The gearing is pretty high for what I'm using it for, but there's zero aftermarket for this transmission.

With re-gearing not being an option, I was thinking a higher stall converter might really wake this buggy up. I'm going with a guess here in thinking that a 2500 would be about right, but I don't know. Does anyone have an opinion on this? I don't want it to hit too hard and backflip every time I punch it, and it still needs to be driveable on the trails. I prefer to ride the trails more than climbing hills, but as we all know Wellsville is one big hillclimb.

Thanks for any advice.

*edit* I just found a 4.10 ring and pinion, the shop wants $1899.99, plus a $400 core charge.

I would think a 3 k stall and a reverse valve body would help . We met ya down in the creek bottom about three weeks ago we we the group that was changing a front tire .

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Theirs no replacement for displacement !

I remember you guys. I need to start meeting up with you guys or something instead of just showing up like I have been doing. I was thinking about a 3000, I didn't know if it would be too much or not. I need to read up about reverse valve bodies, I have no idea what they do. Off to read now...

Welcome aboard Jules. I would stick with the ideal of reversing the two drive gears giving you a higher overall ratio. You will need them machined to fit the opposing mounts however I think you would be better off in the long run. Having the engine hitting a 3k all the time will suck in slow tight woods and will have your tires braking lose when you do not want the too.

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Water cooled Dry Sumped Subaru Powered Turbo Charged Fuel Injected 2500CC Tank. Oh Rah! He who dies with the most Toys not only wins, He also wears them out!

that is a cool bug what i would do is pull that motor and trans out and put air cooled back in it

i think ur best option would b to forget about the trans and build a motor with more than 150 horse power i dont think that engine has enough power for the gearing with the 35s just my thoughts

Those old square backs and 411's had 2:1 torque converters while the bus had 2.5:1. Maybe that could help. I am not up on this subject enough to even carry a conversation, but that is all I know.

From what I was told the gears in the chaindrive part of the tranny are 1to1. I was going to get a machine shop to machine a different ratio for it but never got to it.

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When in doubt, hit it in second gear!

Ah! You gave me the impression they were not 1:1. Thanks for the correction. I still think changing that ratio would give the best overall solution. Well other than putting a 2.5 Subie motor in it.

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Water cooled Dry Sumped Subaru Powered Turbo Charged Fuel Injected 2500CC Tank. Oh Rah! He who dies with the most Toys not only wins, He also wears them out!

You might take a look at WBSouth's build. He had the same issue with his power glide set-up. He built a nice little chan drice gear reduction next to the trans. Its more fab work, but less money.

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I think it's a moot point in regards to the transmission at this point, the motor is knocking. I am going to start looking into an alternate power source.

I think a front wheel drive setup out of a car, something with a 4 banger and a 5 speed, would be the right idea. I know a 6 rib and a subi motor would work, but I can't come up with a good reason not to use something else. Maybe a ecotec with the 5 speed that came with it? It seems like that would be just as much fab work as making the VW fit again would be.

Any thoughts? Thanks.

I know a 6 rib and a subi motor would work, but I can't come up with a good reason not to use something else

Well I can think of a real good reason not use something else. That combination is very well proven and a no muss no fuss cake recipe! Using a trans that come in cars is just asking for major headaches. Consider what you have now and why your going a different route.

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Water cooled Dry Sumped Subaru Powered Turbo Charged Fuel Injected 2500CC Tank. Oh Rah! He who dies with the most Toys not only wins, He also wears them out!

You're right. I'm going to start gathering parts now, as soon as I get everything the motor is coming out.

I found a 6 rib with a super diff and aftermarket close ratio gears for $800, I think I might go pick it up. I haven't decided yet on that one though, I don't know if it's worth it or how to verify the gearing is done. I've been screwed before on deals like that, I'm hesitant to buy it.

How much hp will a 6 rib really take? It's hard to decide what motor to run, there's plenty of options. I think I'll go with a subi, but I'm keeping my options open. I'd like to find a good running 2.5, but I'd proably take a 2.2.

you better jump on that 6 rib!!!! and as for engine your better off to fin a whole car.

He'll be done with it and trade me buggies , save you alot of work if suby is what ya want !

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Theirs no replacement for displacement !

Good advise, Find a whole car.

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Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.
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its easy enough to pull the bellhousing and check and make sure it has a super diff and if so a good stock 6 rib with a super diff installed is worth the $800, and if it does have weddle gears then that just makes it a "racehorse deal"

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Just Stand On It!!!!

Chris

I'm willing to work something out if you're serious. I just read your build thread, is yours done or still in the way it looks in the last picture?

There's a tap/knock inside of the 400 right now though, I can't make you any promises on the lifespan of the motor.