This is what I have for my new buggy build, just looking for some input.
CNC 3/4 bore dual master cylinders with balance bar
CNC 3/4 bore dual handle cutter brakes
ProAm 2 piston calibers with 1.25" pistons for front
Gear One 4 piston calibers with 1.25" piston for rear
Front tires are 29" tall
Rear tires are 32.5" tall

Questions I have are what size brake line to run, should I run residual valve, should I run a proportioning valve? PhilipM said something about running springs in the calibers instead of the residual valve, is that something you can add to any caliber? Thanks for any input!

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When in doubt, Hit the Gas!!!!!!!

My build, http://www.woodsbuggy.com/index.php?opt ... =23&t=9147

dont know about size,,,residual valve,,yes,,,,,proportioning valve,,yes,,springs in calipers,,i dont think so

its all junk scott just give it all to me and ill hope it works lol

The balance bar is the proportioning valve in that setup. I think I would go with a 7/8" bore master for the rear 4 piston calipers. Although a lot of guys do fine with a 3/4". I have a 3/4 on my 4 piston setup and they are on the spongy side. The 7/8" will also move more fluid so that when the wheel bearings get loose and/or the rotors warp (and they will lol) the master will move more fluid and will reduce if not eliminate the pumping of the brakes when the pads get pushed away from the rotors. A residual valve helps this some, however not much in my opinion. They are more for when the master is lower than the calipers to prevent fluid migration. 3/16" brake line is the standard and no reason to use any other size. I like the springs in the caliper ideal. It would help keep the pads up against the rotors in the above senario and would make a 3/4" bore more effective. My question would be how much tension is enough. Don't want wear the pads and/or overheat them to much.

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Water cooled Dry Sumped Subaru Powered Turbo Charged Fuel Injected 2500CC Tank. Oh Rah! He who dies with the most Toys not only wins, He also wears them out!

Sorry about not getting back to PMs for those few of you asking me about brake bits - been setting up a new workshop so it's been a bit hectic of late

Anyway, I normally aim for an installed preload of 7lb per spring when I run them behind the pistons (Use a conical spring so that the close height is as low as possible too).

I am running 7/8" CNC master cylinder for the rear wheels along with 3/4" CNC cutters and a seperate 3/4" master cylinder for the front brakes. I use -3AN braided brake lines and 3/16" hard lines, I would run the hard lines on the frame as much as you can then covert over to S/S braided lines to your wheels once it leaves the frame, never missed a beat since. As far as the residual valve goes, I never used them and I don't think you will ever need them and the springs? I dunno what they are for anyways and it seems to do fine without them. At last, the balance bar IMO is not necessary for the woods, you would want to control your front and rear brakes separately because you do not want your front wheels to lock up at all when backing down a hill, I only use the front brakes to help the going downhill part and if I need to use both front and rear brakes, I just turn my foot sideways and push on both pedals and control the difference by pressing on the front brake with my foot and the rear with my heel of the same foot, it always work for me and it never failed on me yet. If you are going to ride your buggy on the street alot and then yes, I would have the balance bar instead of adding another pedal.

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"Loud pipes saves lives"