i am getting ready to buy the brakes for my new buggy... just wondering which is best single or bouble handle... i plan to get cnc's with 3/4 masters

I like twin sticks so I can hold both rear brakes on a hill while I work the gas & clutch with my feet.

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Prefer twins here too.

I like 2 seperate brake handles as well

The advantage to single handle is speed. If you are driving fast somewhere that you need to cut back and forth quickly its easier. Assuming you don't got the wrong way, lol.

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I had twins and would go from one to the other and miss,,,now I have single and was getting mixed up but am getting a little better now. Whichever you choose you will get used to it in time...or at least that is what I am told.

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If your clutch ain't slippin,, you probably got it adjusted right!!!!!

I have twin sticks, nice for starting out on a big hill.

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I like twins, besides all the other benefits mentioned if your master cylinder happens to fail you can still use both backs at the same time

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Mike
Got Honda?

My last buggy had a twin stick setup, new one has a single and I like it a lot better. Its faster and much more responsive when going up and down hills to me. The new style of CNC's all have a built in bleeder on the singles I am not sure if the double handles do or not

I have only had a single and it works well.. However, I have made a few mistakes and locked up the wrong tire... a few times... I like the single handle because it takes up less room. I made a custom handle that goes up next to my shifter.

The other benefit of a single brake is alternating the tires while going up a hill. It is easier to go forward and backward with one handle than alternating levers.

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thanks for the responses.. i am thinking i'll go with the double i like the idea of using them on a hill... my jeep has a hand brake for all 4 corners and no foot pedal and its very nice for staging at a race and trail riding it is awesome except down hill...

ok i got another question that may be dumb... how do you plumb these into the rest of the breaks or do you just run seperate lines to the caliper? i wil probably get the dual master brake pedals to run the fronts seperate... is this the best way? and a proportioning valve goes right out of the master or should it be closer to the caliper where it is supposed to hold the pressure?

one more question about the cutters... in front of or behind the shifter?

Your cutters act as a "T" . One line in and 2 out. One to each rear caliper. Unless you are using all 4 wheel brakes on a single pedal there is no need for a proportioning valve. The fronts need to be on their own seperate hand operated master.

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If your clutch ain't slippin,, you probably got it adjusted right!!!!!

so what your saying is i run one line from my foot pedal to the cutters and a seperate line from each cutter to each rear caliper.. and i should get a single hand brake and mount it on the left of driver seat for fronts and just get a single master pedal assembly to run just rears... these lines seem like a big puzzle right now lol

sorry didnt mean proportioning... i meant the valve that holds pressure in the line.. and i should get the 2lb residual valve im guessing its called

Maybe this will help you out a little. Even though I am using a single handle the hookup will be the same for you still has three ports on the cutter

I know what you guys that are using duals are talking about when your stuck on a hill and you gotta take off from a stop,but has anybody used a park lock inline with a single brake before? I seen a guy with one in his buggy and didn't ask if that was what he used it for or not.

We've got one with ours (regulations, have to have a mechanical one too), but they're not very sensitive at all, it's sort of on or off, and once it's off there's no pressure until you hit the pedal again, so it's hard to feather over a rough start.

All:

I have a dual handle cutter brake and a 1/8" ball valve on the line just before it enters the cutter. I use the ball valve A LOT out on the trail and when climbing hills. You can press the brake pedal and close the ball valve and the pressure holds the calipers so it is like an emergency brake if you need to park on a hill. I also use it when I spin out on a hill and need to stop and restart the run. Instead of trying to hold the brake pedal and work the gas pedal with one foot and the clutch with the other, just set the ball valve and relax. Clean out the carbs with a heavy rev or two once you get her cranked back up, then just as you start to engage the clutch open the ball valve and off you go up the rest of the way up the hill.

My buggy has 4-wheel disk brakes (setups that I fabricated) and I have one 2 psi residual valve on the fronts and one 2 psi residual on each rear line between the cutter and the calipers. I have never really understood why guys have the fronts on a separate handle. I have a ball valve also for the fronts but I rarely use it. I have tried driving the buggy with the fronts cut off with the ball valve and it is DAMNED DANGEROUS! Does little more than drag the rear wheels going down a hill. With the fronts turned on I can stop completly even on the steepest hill. I also have a proportioning valve and it helps a little but I'm not sure I would spend that money again, it just doesn't seem that necessary.

Good luck.

Dale

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Lets RIDE!

We just run a bias box rather than a proportioning valve.

I agree with you on the full 4 wheel disc setup though, there's no way I'd even think about running ours if the front brakes weren't working, that's 50% of the braking power gone

I understand what your saying but some of the cliffs we drop off of you need your front wheels to roll sometimes so you can steer away from tree's and follow the trail down,if your front wheels are locked up,you cant steer,so thats why some of us run a seperate handle so we can apply them when needed.Steering brakes do you no good if all 4 are locked up,but to each its own.

That's what the bias box is for

I have a series of ball valves so I can set the brakes to all 4 with proportioning valve set to minimum front ( I did this for the street a while back). Or I can separate the fronts from the backs. I prefer them separated because I have only one master on the pedal. Under extreme slick muddy or steep situations the fronts would still get too much pressure and lock up and push. But I can taper the fronts with the separate handle

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If your clutch ain't slippin,, you probably got it adjusted right!!!!!

If there's a marshy/mud hole where the fronts are locking I just break up to the point of lockup then use the twin cutting handles to bias more to the rear, Ed's the same, it's pretty instinctive to do once you've tried it once.

Ya I always figured u could feather the fronts with your foot and lock the rears as needed with the cutters. Any reason this doesnt work?

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I had one of those park locks on my old woods buggy and it never worked. I ran a single 7/8 master and 4 wheel disk with a perportioning valve to the front, and it worked fine. My race buggy has dual 3/4 masters. I would never run a buggy with out front brakes. Even in the muddiest conditions, it has never hurt me to have front brakes

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