should i run as much hard metal line as possible or will all stainless braided line be just as good?
also what size line is recomended ?

the reason i ask is i was going to run all braided line due to it being easier to run but when i went to a speed shop to buy the line the guy at the counter told me i would have better brakes if i run as much hardline as possible and only use flexible line where i had too but i know people with high dollar bad ass rock crawlers that use all braided lines and manual wildwood pedal assymblys that say there brakes are just fine......

sooooooooo im wondering what everybody on here runs/suggests?

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Just Stand On It!!!!

Chris

Brakes? I just let the concrete wall stop

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Tony

Hard lines have no give to create that spongy feel, braided has some give. Use braded where it needs to move, like the trailing arms. It will keep it a stiffer feel. A small cheep tubing bender makes it fairly simple to do. Just buy more line if you mess up, it's pretty cheep. And most auto parts stores have a loner flare tool.

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Nitro is right. Keep rubber or braided lines to as much of a minimum as possible. I try to just put a very short piece of rubber line over the rear torsion and go back to hard line into the caliper.

On a buggy without power brakes, you will not notice the volumetric expansion of a braided stainless line. These "aftermarket" lines typically use a teflon inner tube with braided stainless reinforcing layer and offer very low volumetric expansion. You will be able to feel the expansion however, with rubber brake lines. These hoses will typically use a nylon inner tube with a braided textile and rubber reinforcement and will swell under hard braking. I am a hydraulics engineer for a living, and design and plumb about every type of vehicle there is. My buggy is going to have all braided stainless lines. It helps to have a hydraulic crimper, hose saw, and fittings in the garage!!! If anyone ever has any plumbing questions for a buggy, I would be happy to lend my opinion.

well i got the new line run and the new cutting brakes installed and i used all hardline except for a 18in. stainless braided line at the torsion and i also installed a wildwood 10psi residual pressure valve right at the master cylinder but now i am going through the pain of trying to bleed out all the air or at least thats what i think it is cause every time i get a decent peddle and let it sit for a minute it has no brakes again but i was hoping the residual valve wood help the process but i gues not

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Chris

Press the pedal and lock it down with a stick or something and look real good for leaks,,let it sit like that all night if necessary. Did you take the calipers off and squeeze the pistons in to bleed? Ride it hard and repeat.

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If your clutch ain't slippin,, you probably got it adjusted right!!!!!

Maybe some will not notice the expansion of braided.


Have you forced bled (powerbleeder, gardensprayer or otherwise) them? Did you rotate your calipers to where the bleeders are at the highest point in the system while you were bleeding (and put a block between the pads)? If yes, then try pushin your caliper pistons all the way in, then rotate the calipers and push acouple qts thru the sytem. Put the calipers back on the rotor and powerbleed some more. Work your brake pedal and cutter handle while the powerbleeder is running. Sometimes I've gotten a bubble or two to come out by tapping on cylinders, bends in hard lines, and the calipers also, while bleeding.
I dont use a residual valve so I aint sure, but I was thinking the 2psi valve was what most people used on a buggy??

this is the exact same setup i got on my blue buggy with the exception that i used rubber lines at the torsion instead of braided and it has brakes for days and hardly any free travel whatsoever i mean there just right there when u want em ....... i gues it just beginners luck or something because they just bled right out but this one is being a pain

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Just Stand On It!!!!

Chris

Can some one please describe a power bleader to me. I've been using a mighty vac, vacuum pump. Never gets the system bubble free. I couver the bleed screws with never sieze and still get bubbles. Thought maybe the air was being sucked throught/around the threaded portion of the bleed screw. ?

I just pm'ed bmoore last night with how to build and use one. I copied the pm to post it, just hadnt done it yet.
Gonna repost it in a new thread titled "Power bleeder for cheap" LOL . Maybe this section's mod could sticky it

I found a small ratchet strap works good for this.

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Thats funny And its not cheap, but it is effective. Stops on a dime!

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PM'd you some pics to go with Larry's directions.

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well i got the new lines run and the new cutting brakes mounted in the center and everything is blead out and its got a pretty good pedal sitting still and is that way evertime i go to the shop but if i make a lap or two around the yard it still has brakes but the pedal goes way down and with one pump its back to nearly a full pedal so im thinking i need to replace the stub axle bearings or either i got a warped rotor but regardless they are way better than they were at the monter truck show at least

by the way if i have to replace the rotors are there different brands of the one piece rotors or are they all made by the same company if so which ones are the good ones and where can i get them at a decent price?

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Just Stand On It!!!!

Chris

I used full braided lines on my new buggy, it has an awsome pedal. Took me about an hour with a vacuum bleeders setup to get all the air out of the system. If your getting air around your bleeders put a little thread sealant on them about two threads up from the end. Lets you bleed it easier and also keep nasty water and mudd from gettin down in the threads causing them to stick and break off later on in life. I only have about a 6" piece of hard line just enough to install my 2lb residual valve and a brake light switch. Does one of your cutting brakes feel a lot better than the other or about the same?

yeah i taped the bleeder threads and used my vacuum bleeder also

the left seems to be little better than the right but not much until i pull it several times without mashing the foot pedal

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Just Stand On It!!!!

Chris

That is the same thing mine kept doing, ended up using a bungee strap to tie the cutting brake back and then bled that side one more time. Problem solved