ok so I have shown how much of a newbie I am by asking all the questions but I figure that it is easier to ask the advice of those with experience before I try to act like I know what I am doing when this is my first build and I figure that you only have the chance to use your parents space once so make it worth it.

ok my question is brake peddles.

I have 2 piston front gear-one disc brakes, and 4 piston gear-one rear disc brakes.

I want to run a good peddle that will give me the chance to adjust the brake preasure from front to rear and set up the brakes right. and still have the hydrolic clutch too. then to add into the mix my confusion on the throttle peddle.

any help would be appreciated...if there are pictures or the peddles that you have or the ones you would suggest would be of great help!

I am getting my axles on the car today and getting the shocks welded on so the next step comming soon is the brake lines and peddles so i need to start to get things in order and reading up on them.

Not a good pic but I have a single master cylinder pedal for clutch, dual master for brakes (1 master for front and 1 rear brakes).

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A broken clock is right two times a day.

thanks man...that is I think the route that i am heading...i know i can make the single master work with creative lines but i dont think i would trust it...

since im still new to this...how do you run the throttle?...do you run a small tube tack welded to the chassi that you run the throttle cable through?...just wandering the best way to run the throttle cable

Get a morse cable for your, gas cable.

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A good friend will bail you out of jail. A best friend will be sitting next to you saying: "Damn that was fun!"



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A5wGMaUMXUQ

Dont run the throttle cable through a tube. It gets jammed up with mud & debris. I always weld eyelets along my frame & run the cable through them. Usually 3 is all I need to route the cable. I have done this for almost 20 years and never had a failure yet. This method leaves the cable exposed & as long as the eyelets are placed in the spots you need to redirect the cable there is nothing to gum things up.

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thanks guys... both are great help and i like the welding tabs to run the cable instead of the tube...that way it wont rust over time too...

thanks again...is there a better peddle to go with...for break or gas?...im not trying to spend a fortune but i dont want to buy something that will give me a lot of trouble with eaither...

I never tried tabs but I guess they would work fine as long as you run a file around the inside of the hole to smooth the sharp edges. I always used the eyelets you bolt in since they have no sharp edges.

You can bolt them in but I like to weld them to keep em in place. I usually run wire rope from Lowes since its cheap. Most Lowes sell a ferrule that you loop the cable & slide both ends through & crimp it which is perfect for the throttle pedal end.

Total cost including eyelets is about 10 bucks. I usually run 1/16th which is overkill but lasts forever. Make up a second cable & keep it in your tool box. Youll never need it but its cheap insurance. Use a length of 3/8" brake tubing to pass the cable through your fan shroud. usually 4 inches is plenty. Just remember to avoid sharp edges so the cable doesnt wear on it.

Stand alone gas pedals are fine. I used several stock pedal assemblies for years with a roller pedal. My 4 seater has a Neal set with a roller pedal & my new buggy is going to have a stand alone pedal. They all work well.

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yeah im partial to roller's because well just the simple look from a girl when you pull up is worth it. I have ran 2 bugs one 66 and one 67 both slammed and rat-rods so i love the rollers but i dont think that is availible on a stand alone peddle...

yeah i was going to weld tabs but file them around or take the drimmel and sand them down... thanks again for the help... its taking me a while to get everything done and it feels like all i do is say what im going to do instead of actually building it.

I found out today that my welder is going to be free to help me at the end of next week since i dont have a welder yet and he used to fabricate rock crawlers i figure i would let him set up my rear and front coil overs and limit straps...the right way!

I am now saving for my dream seats and have almost got enough to order them...corbeau seats...they are so comfortable... i was able to get the 5 point cam lock harnesses that retail for $150 at a auction for $112 for both...and my steering wheel which is a sparco that retails for $300 for $101...I will take those savings...

all my friends want the car done and the good news is that they are helping me when i need that extra hand but that extra hand sitll does not put the cash in the bank account for this project to run on...

well back to the studies I have to focus since this is my last semester at UNCW till i graduate with a business marketing degree...my parents are ready for me to move out ...with all my projects!

Next time I buy pedals they will be Wilwood. I’ve run CNC’s and they aren’t bad but from what I’ve read Wilwood is the way to go. Jammer, Neal and the cheap ones you have to assemble yourself are junk in my opinion. I had a Jammer cutting break and it lasted about 1 season before it started leaking, so I bought a Neal cutter and it lasted one trip and started leaking. I sent several emails to Neal and they never responded and now their web page is gone.

Can you adjust the bias on that brake pedal? Like you can on dual masters with a balance bar?

brad just ruines stuff too easily, i like all my neal stuff.. I run a tube back then it is coupled before the shroud with a double female brake fitting to another tube that is flared so it won't pull through the shroud... I run a stainless aviation cable that is coated. Don't know where you can get them, my buddy gave it to me, but if you can find a stainless coated cable, do it!

Maybe I’ll start just following everyone around and just watching, then I won’t break stuff too easy.

works for me! hahahahahhaha... brad i've almost got my balls back, i think this season may go a little bit different....

yeah i will be honest i will not have any balls in my rig for a good lil while till i wear out the new car smell i mean heck i have been working on this build now for about 2 years

if you have the cash, go with wilwoods.... btw, i had all the balls at first, then a few years in i rolled 6 times down a hill, still had balls, built a new buggy, rolled it first time out, no balls since! lol you'll do just fine im sure, you seem to be putting together a fine rig sir!

My balls are only big lf I watch a few guys successfully make a hill without big problems. I wont attempt a hill that better climbers in better rails cant make. Im not ready to destroy my buggy just to prove I couldnt make it either. I rolled as a passenger & while it didnt put the fear of god in me, We did tweak a brand new frame on its first outing & bend a new trailing arm. I dont want to trash my stuff right out of the box either.

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Yes, you can by adjusting the "screw" at the pivot.

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A broken clock is right two times a day.