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 Post subject: Brakes
PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2007 7:24 pm 
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Location: NW Georgia
I've added a Brake residual valve to keep pressure to my turning brakes... Installation went fine, Blead the brakes and I still have to pump the pedal at least twice to get a good grab on the turning brakes.

Disk brakes rear, no fronts, the Brake residual valve "Is" for disk brakes. I installed it directly to the front of the Master Cylinder. My dad has his installed in the main line to the turning brakes, and he has the same issue
....So any help would kill two birds with one stone.

Any suggestions.

Thanks


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2007 7:33 pm 
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What is the bore size of your master cylinder? How big are your calipers?

Roy

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2007 7:55 pm 
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Calipers take Ghia pads. Not sure on the bore size of the Mc Buggy's at my shop I'll have to take a look tomorrow. We tried bleeding both the mc and the turning brakes as well since the Turn B's are slighty about Mc level no more than 3 inches or so. And my rear disk's are mounted up top with bleeders up top as well


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2007 8:09 pm 
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So whacha' Thinking Roy?


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2007 9:11 pm 
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I'm thinking that your master cylinder bore might be a bit to small? You need at least a 3/4" bore size to run those calipers. Check the size and let me know. To small of a bore will not push enough volume of fluid on the first pump to efficiently actuate the caliper pistons. I have seen this on some of the buggies I have worked on over the years.

Roy


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2007 9:24 pm 
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Location: NW Georgia
ah...I see,
I think I have a spare one in the shop as well...I'll check both.
Thanks again


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2007 10:26 pm 
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Watch if you buy a new one don't think bigger is better . cause i thought that and bought a 1" wilwood and i have a great pedal. but you have to push alittle harder i was told the M.C. is to big . Dave


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2007 10:53 pm 
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Hey are you all running fronts and rears? I have drum front brakes I just haven't plumbed them in yet... I see your point about have too much or too little bore.

So if I added in Front's "wide five drums" would I still need a 3/4 bore?


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 5:40 am 
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Man whatever you do, don't hook your front brakes up to your foot petal. You will hate it. Get a staging brake. Trust me on this one.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 11:14 am 
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[quote='Roy']Man whatever you do, don't hook your front brakes up to your foot petal. You will hate it. Get a staging brake. Trust me on this one.[/quote]

This one might work better, it has the master cylinder.

http://www.cncbrakes.com/cncbrakes.com- ... es/402.jpg

Staging brake just plumbs into the front circuit.

http://www.cncbrakes.com/cncbrakes.com- ... es/412.jpg

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 11:33 am 
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Good call Gary. That's what I was referring to. The one that has the built in master cylinder. That's the one to get.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 11:45 am 
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[quote='Wicked_spider_']Hey are you all running fronts and rears? I have drum front brakes I just haven't plumbed them in yet... I see your point about have too much or too little bore.

So if I added in Front's "wide five drums" would I still need a 3/4 bore?[/quote]

If you DO decide to plumb all 4 wheels to the foot brake you might want to consider going to a 7/8" bore on your master. I want to discourage you from doing this though. I ride with a guy that


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 12:40 pm 
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[quote='Roy']Good call Gary. That's what I was referring to. The one that has the built in master cylinder. That's the one to get.[/quote]


I have just rear discs for now, thinking of putting on front brakes of some sort.
So that is the hot ticket? Hand brake?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 4:32 pm 
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Right.. I've had a rail with fronts and that was the same issue I was running into, I had planned on plumbing the fronts into a seperate steering brake in the future. I checked my Bore size and my spare cylinder will be the correct size so I'll switch them out and see what I get.

Main reason, I swapped out a "worn out" gm saiganaw box to a Gm S-10 steering box "manual" and after all the installation brackets yada yada
I found out my rail is about 5 turns lock to lock!!!!!! AH!!!
Hindesight tells me I sould have got a manual Blazer box the gear is different I think. 5 turns lock to lock is a lot to deal with so I need my turning brakes to be there as soon as I need them since I will be so busy sawing a the wheel.

At the end of the season I will swap the box out. again..


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 7:30 pm 
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I have disk on the back on the foot pedal. and the front on a staging brake got the idea from Roy. love it like that only use them when you want them. works good. Dave


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PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2007 4:40 pm 
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When i first started going to Wellsville I only had rear drum brakes. Man was that short lived. Then I replaced them with Rear disks. That was better however still not good enough for the hilly (losely said lol) terrain. I had an old dual neal Clutch/brake set up laying around. I merly used one side and made a long handle to replace the foot pedal and the rest is history. I only have Drums on the front and disks on the rear however it still makes a world of difference having seperate control of the front and rear brakes.


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PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2007 5:08 pm 
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That ball valve also works pretty good as a parking brake, too! Just pump up the brakes and close the valve, pressure stays in the line and holds the calipers out.

Larry


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