Finally got all my brake lines installed yesterday. Started bleeding them, definately not a one man job. Is there a faster way to do it with one person? Should the cutting brakes be pulled back like they are engaged while bleeding the back ones?

Any and all help is appreciated.

Thanks.

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Off-roading is NOT a spectator sport

If you can't buy it....Make it

You know, water and electricity dont mix (from a nurse at a hospital)

Two turtles don't make a rabbit

I just did mine too and am eager to see the replys,,,

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If your clutch ain't slippin,, you probably got it adjusted right!!!!!

I have read about a "power" bleeder, havent seen one so I havent been able to copy it. Cant be much to it.

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Off-roading is NOT a spectator sport

If you can't buy it....Make it

You know, water and electricity dont mix (from a nurse at a hospital)

Two turtles don't make a rabbit

after i got mine bleed,i had someone pull on my cutting brake while i was bleeding,u will never get it the first time,ive had to go riding and do it on the trail,i have seen people have to get the master cylinder higher than the wheel cylinders and then bleed them

First , rotate your calipers to where the bleeder is the highest point of the caliper. Might need to take them all the way off the rotor to do this. If so, put something between the pads that is just a hair thicker than your rotors.

(The following process is only if you are at home in your garage and done driving for the day:)

Garden sprayer w/ couple gallons of brake fluid in it, cut the end off the hose, clamp a fiting into it, tap the top of you m/c and put a fitting in it that the hose will screw onto, pump up the sprayer, open your bleeders and put some small clear hose over them to catch the brake fluid . Drink a cold one, pump your handles and pedal a few times. When the major air bubbles stop flowing, then shut the bleeder on one side. Drink another cold one, pump the cutter for the side you left open a few times and pump your pedal every now and then. Shut the open bleeder, open the shut bleeder. Drink another cold one while you watch the sprayer to make sure it dont run dry and the catch cans to make sure they dont overflow. Work your cutter and pedal a little. Shut that bleeder. Let the pressure off the sprayer and cap off the fitting on your m/c. Put the calipers back on the rotors and be amazed at how good your pedal is. Do it all again after a good days ride and it will get even better.

Good Luck

Easy enough. I presume that the end of the bleeder screw hose is stuck into some brake fluid to keep the air bubbles from going back in? I'll try this wednesday afternoon and let you know how it went.

Thanks kybuggy1

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Off-roading is NOT a spectator sport

If you can't buy it....Make it

You know, water and electricity dont mix (from a nurse at a hospital)

Two turtles don't make a rabbit

Naw, the hose is just to catch the fluid you push out so you can re-use it. Air wont go back in because the pressure from the garden sprayer/"power bleeder", even when you let the pedal up or the handles down. You can also crack open the bleeder on your cutters while your doing this. Helps speed it up with all new stuff sometimes.
Call me if you run into any problems. pm sent

Larry

O.K.,i have borrowed a power bleeder and it busted a seal,so i built one myself and im getting a decent foot pedal,but the steering brakes are just not cooperating.Im getting a little on the left side,but the right is doing nothing.I will keep at it,but if anyone has any other tips,please let me know.I have never had this much trouble getting brakes.

what kind of cutting brake u got??????ive seen some that was like that,bugpack,jamar was really bad about that

Ive got a single handle CNC and it is fairly new.I noticed my power bleeder sprung a small air leak at the top of the cap where it screws onto the jug,will that make it not bleed right?Iam getting straight fluid out of my calipers.My bleeders are straight up and all my fittings are tight.I dont have a bleed screw on my steering brake either.

Iam stumped.Ive done everything i can think of.I have taken the calipers of and put a chunk of steel in between the pads done the process 2 more times.If there is anybody close to where i live and think they can fix my brakes,give me a shout,i will emburse you nicely.Im to the point,to where i want to burn this piece of crap to the ground.

You do not have a bleed screw on your steering brake? I have a single handle CNC brake and I am pretty sure I have a bleed screw.. How many lines do you have running into and out of your steering brake.

Mine is not perfect and could use some more bleeding. I started with the pedal to the steering brake. After that, I left the steering brake alone and just use the caliper bleeders at the wheels.

They work great but the pedal is a little soft.

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Bleeding Tips:
When bleeding, keep these points in mind:
• It helps to "pre-fill" the calipers, master, and lines as you re-assemble the components after an overhaul.
• Move the lever (or pedal) deliberately…don't thrash. You're trying to move fresh fluid in a manner that displaces the fluid and air froth already in the system. If your action on the lever (or pedal) is too aggressive, you risk creating more froth in the system.
• When moving the lever (or pedal), stop about ½" short of max travel on each stroke.
• Put some grease on the bleed nipples to prevent air entry when the bleed nipples are cracked open (especially important when vacuum bleeding)
• Open the bleed nipple on each stroke just as you begin moving the lever (or pedal).
• Very important: open the bleed nipple just enough to let a very small amount of fluid pass through. If you open the bleed nipple too much, you will lose "feel" at the lever (or pedal) and you'll have a harder time stopping at the right moment on each stroke.
• Close the bleed nipple at the end of each stroke before you release the lever (or pedal).
• It's sometimes necessary to "burp" the banjo fittings to release trapped air.
• Judicious tapping with a suitable rubber mallet at suspected locations of trapped air is sometimes helpful in getting them to move.
• If you have a highly aerated (frothy) mixture in your system, sometimes it helps to put pressure on the fluid by squeezing the lever (or pedal) overnight. For the lever, I use a zip-tie and for the pedal, I use a 5 pound dumbbell hanging from the end of the pedal. This will firm up your lever by putting the air back into suspension with the brake fluid. Then, you will need to re-bleed again the next day to replace the air-contaminated fluid in the system. Otherwise, the lever firmness you gained overnight will soon be lost as the air falls back out of suspension again...trust me it will!
• DON'T MIX DIFFERENT TYPES OF BRAKE FLUID. GL1000s require DOT 3 brake fluid. I use Castrol brand brake DOT 3 fluid with great results. Brake fluid specs are confusing. For example, DOT 5.1 is marketed as "universal" brake fluid and is supposed to be compatible with DOT 3 and DOT 4. However, DOT 5 brake fluid is silicon-based and not compatible with any other type of brake fluid. Be safe and don't confuse the next owner of you bike or your mechanic. Always use DOT 3 brake fluid.
• Brake fluid is hydroscopic (attracts water). This has two implications. Over time, the water absorbed by brake fluid will effectively lower the boiling point of your fluid rendering it less effective under hard use. Secondly, the absorbed water wreaks havoc on calipers and brake pistons causing rust and pitting. If you don't change your brake fluid regularly, eventually your brakes will fail ...it's a certainty! I recommend that you change brake fluid ever 2 years religiously.
• Make sure the by-pass port in your master cylinder is open and clear. This port is the smaller of the 2 ports which allow fluid to travel from the reservoir into the cylinder. This small orifice is easily blocked by small amounts of crud. If this small port is blocked, you'll have all sorts of brake problems including difficulty bleeding the system. You must remove the reservoir to inspect and clean these very important ports.

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If your clutch ain't slippin,, you probably got it adjusted right!!!!!

Bucky, if you got good foot pedal , but the cutters suck, its gotta be a bad cutting brake. When you push down for right brake, does the handle seem like it stays down, or does it not "bounce back" like it should?

Larry

No it stays down,and if i try to pump it back up with the pedal it still dont want to come back up with out some help.I aslo am wondering why the steering brake dont have a bleeder on top.

Sounds like it has fluid on the back side of the piston . Thats what those el cheapo cutters did that I tried . I guess either poor machining in the cylinders or cheap piston seals.

Mine and Koko's CNCs both have bleeder valves. And the cheap one in my wife's buggy does too. I'd try a different cutter. Even CNCs can go/be bad. Koko's is jacked up right now. Still works but right brake aint nearly as good as left.

my cutters dont have a bleeder on them (dual handle neals)

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"IT IS WHAT IT IS"

My dual handle CNC's don't have bleeders either.

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Made a pressure bleeder from a $16 spayer works great. Took an old metal res cap drilled it and put a valve stem in it. Thanks for the idea guys. Brakes feel like rocks now.
Metz

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Thanks for the pics

Yep I must say I just built one of these units tonight. Rock solid brakes. Think with 1 gallon of brake fluid had about 60.00 for everything. The clip end, barb fitting, sprayer, fluid, and hose.

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I just went and built one like everybody elses and did exactly what ya'll say to do and still nothing.I put a brand new steering brake on and rubber brake lines.I have no leaks and my calipers are sticking straight up.Can we get insurance put on these buggys,cause i need to collect some money for a new one.I feel like an idiot,ive built 4 buggys from scratch and have never had this many problems.I'll just load the cooler down and do some trail riding,to hell with brakes.

Buckmaster I'm bringin my bleeder just in case. I'm sure a few of us can jump on it thursday or friday and getcha working right. Unless u got a bad part somewhere.

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After i run the bleeder for half hour through the system,i have to pump my foot pedal back up,it will hold pressure if i keep pressure on it,but if i let off of it and push it back down it goes,it goes to the floor and the steering brakes are worse.I put a new set of CNC pedals and a new steering brake,rubber lines and double checked all my connections for leaks or air seeping through.I have tried bleeding them the old fashion way and nothing,so now im starting to get really concerned that i might have bought a bad set of pedals and ST. brakes.3 days of bleeding brakes just is not cutting it.

Bucky, you need to move your arse back to KY. You could bring it over and together we'd get 'em fixed!

I'll have my bleeder, too. We'll get ya stopping. Or drink a lot of beer while we try!