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PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2009 9:57 pm 
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Its a miracle,ive got the best brakes ever now.All i had to do was compress the caliper pistons all the way in and clamp them down,then let the power bleeder do the rest.A man can learn a lot,or little in 3 days of work,LOL.Thanks guys.


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PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2009 10:38 pm 
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Glad to see you got it figured out.I got two buggy's down here that needs done.LOL So the calipers was holding air in them?

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PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2009 12:57 am 
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Glad to hear it man, not that complicated of a system. Figured with enough head scratchin and beer/booze we'd get r figured.

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PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2009 6:50 am 
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Buckmaster wrote:
Its a miracle,ive got the best brakes ever now.All i had to do was compress the caliper pistons all the way in and clamp them down,then let the power bleeder do the rest.A man can learn a lot,or little in 3 days of work,LOL.Thanks guys.


I may try that,,do you open the bleeder as you are compressing the piston ,or push the fluid ( with air) back upline then bleed?

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PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2009 9:46 am 
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Firebug wrote:
Buckmaster wrote:
Its a miracle,ive got the best brakes ever now.All i had to do was compress the caliper pistons all the way in and clamp them down,then let the power bleeder do the rest.A man can learn a lot,or little in 3 days of work,LOL.Thanks guys.


I may try that,,do you open the bleeder as you are compressing the piston ,or push the fluid ( with air) back upline then bleed?

i would think you would open the bleeder valve then compress the piston,jus open a little and compress slow


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PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2009 9:56 am 
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I rode mine for a bit and they became one pumpers. Re-bleed after that short test and you can't pull the cutters an 1/8th inch now after the second bleed. Rode it again for half hour after that and brakes never softened up any. I didn't even remove the calipers the second time just cracked the bleeders and went. The second time however I did NOT break the cap loose on the master cylinder. I pressurized the system and bleed it out then unhooked the sprayer and put the cap on the valve stem. Thanks KY boys :)

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PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2009 12:58 pm 
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You're welcome. 8)


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PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2009 7:12 pm 
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I hooked the bleeder up and then i stuck a screwdriver between the pad and the piston and compressed it back all the way and stuck a extension in there to hold it in and then pumped the bleeder up and broke the bleeders loose,pumped the pedals a few times,shut down 1 bleeder and worked the ST.brakes and pedal again,then the opposite side.Let the bleeder run until you get a solid pedal with the bleeders closed and then release the air on the pressure bleeder.


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PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2009 9:25 pm 
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I tried your idea about pressing the piston in and WOW,,,it works,,I pressed it back and held it in place with a socket and bled the tube in a jar method, and I am very impressed,, BM,,your a genious :wink:

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2009 10:11 am 
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Update: the pressure bleading method didn't do anything but make a huge mess for me. One thing that I hadn't done when I started this thread was to fully adjust the shoes out to the drums. Once this was done and the brakes were bled the normal way, I had tons of brakes. Although I did find out that my Neal turning brakes need to be rebuilt. Which could account for the issues from the pressure bleeding event. Oh well. Currently planning on discs after I get past the dmv.

Thanks for the replies.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 10:32 am 
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One thing i didn't see mentioned earlier in the thread was bench-bleeding. Most people think to bench-bleed the master but not the steering brakes. I haven't had trouble with steering brakes since using this process.


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