I have had people tell me your rear calipers have to be pointed to the back to work right, is that true? I put mine on top to keep them from getting hit by sticks and backing into trees. They never really worked all that good but i had junk stock pedals and cutters. I am installing new c&c pedals and cutters this week along with all new lines so if the calipers need to be mounted on the back now is the time to do it. Thanks in advance for any help.

Matt Miller

I have seen some with them mounted on top as you mentioned. They seemed to work for them. I know its a bit of work but why not try it for now after you redo the lines and pedals. Then if not working for you then move them. I don't know that location has that much to do with braking, its more the force on the disk from the caliper.

The Wild Kids

thats the way i feel, it still pinches the rotor the same no matter where you put the caliper. Ill give it a try and see what i come up with and if i have to change it all i have to redo is the hard line between the caliper and flex line.

I have built cars with them on top and with them in the rear. I feel it really does not make a difference in braking performance either way. I do believe the issue is that it is more difficult to purge the air out with them mounted on the top. An easy fix to this problem is to bleed the calipers with them in the verticle position and then mount them back on the arm. Install a shim between the pads that is slightly thicker than the rotor while bleeding. Then mount it back in place.

My 2 cents

Mine are on top and no problems. Like Roy says, you have to take them off to bleed, but, other than that, good to go!

-Blake

If you use the pump sprayer method from this site do you still have to take them off?

Haven't had to try that yet, but, I would think so, so that the air would go to the highest point. Not 100% sure.

-Blake

our calipers are a pian to bleed mounted on top.. but that is the only qway we could do it when we set them on our 3x3's
bench bleeding is the only way to do it... mounted on back would eliminate the need to remove, but may cause a hazard when backing into stuff or rolling over stumps.. wow.. that is a bit extreme
but that IS the woods

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let me get this straight.. i get PAID for this job?http://www.honkernet.net/AHS/departmental/industrialarts.htm

One thing to consider when bleeding is the type of caliper you have. the VW style has two bleeders, one on each end. If there mounted on the back one bleeder is on the bottom so you will have to remove and turn bleeder up. Place a 3/8" piece of steel or aluminum between the pads to keep them from cloesing and/or popping the pistons out of the caliper.

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Water cooled Dry Sumped Subaru Powered Turbo Charged Fuel Injected 2500CC Tank. Oh Rah! He who dies with the most Toys not only wins, He also wears them out!

[quote='backwoods']If you use the pump sprayer method from this site do you still have to take them off?[/quote]

Yes, you still need to rotate your calipers so that the bleeder is the highest point, especially if you've replaced a component or line. If you just gotta crack a line open or something for one reason or another, and want to bleed again real quick, then not usually, as long as you didnt get alot of air in the system.

Larry

Top is the only way to go. That way they are less likely to get hit by a stump, rock or anything else.