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| Front brake lines with extended arms http://www.woodsbuggy.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=2951 |
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| Author: | fortydegnorth [ Wed Feb 06, 2008 6:30 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Front brake lines with extended arms |
How is everyone running there front brake lines from the frame to the caliper. I have an 8" wider beam and extended arms so they are pretty far away from the frame. If I ran them straight over the hoses would definitely get caught on some tree limb or rock. I have seen some guys run a braided hose from the caliper accross the tie rod and make a loop in the center of the frame. The loop would allow the rack and pinion enough room to move side to side. I need ideas and pictures, show me the best route. |
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| Author: | fortydegnorth [ Wed Feb 06, 2008 7:41 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Is anyone running stainless line with AN -3 fittings? Is it worth it? |
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| Author: | Odyknuck [ Wed Feb 06, 2008 10:26 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I dont like the Ideal of strapping the lines to your tie rods. Why not run solid steel out to the edge of the beam and install a bracket there and then go to caliper with a flex line. Thats what i plan on doing on mine. Stainless lines are the way to go. They dont expand like rubber after time. Becides that with how well you Buggy is looking it will be a nice touch. |
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| Author: | fortydegnorth [ Wed Feb 06, 2008 11:49 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
That was more of what I was thinking too. I just don't want extra hose anywhere that it will get snagged. If I go down the tie rod it would be with hard line and just put two small kevlar hoses at the ends. I like the idea of kevlar because its stronger than braided stainless and its smooth so it won't rub wear marks in anything as quickly. |
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| Author: | mjb600 [ Thu Feb 07, 2008 11:12 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I don't like the idea of going down the tie rod. If you break a tie rod end it could snap the line and then you are left with no steering and no brakes. I don't know about you but if I loose steering, I at least want to be able to stop. I could just be paranoid but that's my opinion. |
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| Author: | fortydegnorth [ Thu Feb 07, 2008 12:35 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I would still have breaks. I have a dual master cylinder so my rear brakes are seperate from the front. I also have cable operated emergency brakes on the rear. I agree, I like the idea of concealing the lines as best I can too and the tie rod idea puts them in plain sight. |
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| Author: | RailHomie [ Thu Feb 07, 2008 12:46 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Why couldn't you just run a hard line all the way to the end of the beam, then a flex line (stainless, whatever you want) down one of the trailing arms? You may or may not have to strap it to the arm, but if you did, it would definitely stay out of the way. You'd just have to leave a little excess around the moving joints. Probably what I'd do. 
If you're worried about looks, run the flex line under one of the arms...? |
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| Author: | Firebug [ Thu Feb 07, 2008 12:50 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
That's what I did 
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| Author: | Baddvw [ Thu Feb 07, 2008 1:31 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I use the stainless braided lines it is -3AN, I ran the hard line all the way to the frame and mounted a tab and use the coupler to convert hard line to the flex line, it works very well for me and I also ran the braided lines all the way from the steering brake to the rear calipers. The brand lines and fittings that I use is Earl's. |
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| Author: | Baddvw [ Thu Feb 07, 2008 1:39 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
[quote='mjb600']I don't like the idea of going down the tie rod. If you break a tie rod end it could snap the line and then you are left with no steering and no brakes. I don't know about you but if I loose steering, I at least want to be able to stop. I could just be paranoid but that's my opinion.[/quote] That's why I run the front and rear brakes seperatly, I have a single-stage brake resorvoir handle beside my shifter for the front brakes only, and the foot pedal, steering bra |
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| Author: | fortydegnorth [ Thu Feb 07, 2008 6:13 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Well I just ordered all the parts to finish up the brakes and I think it cost more than the rest of the buggy. I went with stainless line and AN-3 fittings. For the hoses I went with kevlar instead of braided. All the little $2 and $6 fittings added up. By the time I got the line, hoses, fittings, residual pressure and proportioning valve it was $420. That didn't include the pedals, cutting brake and disc kits. Man I'm ready for this project to be done!! |
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| Author: | Baddvw [ Fri Feb 08, 2008 1:31 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Kevlar line works good too, I have them for the front calipers, but they are too short. |
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| Author: | fortydegnorth [ Fri Feb 08, 2008 9:56 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
www.speedwaymotors.com has them from 12" up to 48" long with -3AN female fittings on both ends. They are a couple dollars more than braided stainless. |
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| Author: | Kyle [ Fri Feb 08, 2008 11:01 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
yea thats where i was looking to. but damn how did you end up spending 420.00? all the braided and kevlar lines is seen where like 14.00 haha you must got a boat load of lines! |
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| Author: | fortydegnorth [ Fri Feb 08, 2008 8:29 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I didn't get very many hoses. I spent all the money on AN-3 fittings and stainless steel hard line. Not to mention another $100 for a 37 degree flaring tool. Plus the residual pressure valve, brake light switch and all the other crap needed! It was enough to do everything in stainless hard line including the clutch. All together from pedals to discs I will have about $2000 in brakes. Basically the most expensive "system" on the car. |
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| Author: | Roy [ Fri Feb 08, 2008 9:15 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Don't feel bad, I have almost that much in my brake system. |
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| Author: | Odyknuck [ Fri Feb 08, 2008 11:59 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Good brakes are well worth any price . If you can't stop all the other money you put into the Buggy won't mean much if your not around. |
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| Author: | plumberbill [ Sat Feb 09, 2008 9:52 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
good brakes arn't cheap cheap brakes arn't good |
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| Author: | hillaholic [ Tue Feb 12, 2008 12:00 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Bill who |
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| Author: | backwoods [ Tue Feb 12, 2008 4:09 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
takes alot of power to pull that around. |
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| Author: | afterburnt [ Mon Feb 18, 2008 10:33 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I ran the hard lines to the edge of the frame and mounted it there, and i used a rubber hose from the caliper to the hard line i tightend the hose on the caleber first but over by the frame i rotated the hose so it kind of naturally bends up out of the way, i ran this for a few years now, and it worked well, i do have long trailing arms up front so it does drop down alot, or you could screw in a 45 fitting to point the hose up. and with dule master cylinders, if you do rip one, you still got your back breaks |
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| Author: | Odyknuck [ Thu Feb 28, 2008 11:41 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
How did you end up running your front brake lines? |
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| Author: | yankee [ Sun Mar 30, 2008 12:08 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
i just finished running front brake lines i have extended front arms king pin beam i have cut the stops off for travel purposes but also gave a perfect spot to run front brake line thru the beam itself the line is hidden put a 90 in capliar rubber line to beam worked for me just a thought line does not move |
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| Author: | Bad Influence [ Thu Jun 19, 2008 8:27 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Front brake lines with extended arms |
I'm getting ready to run my brake lines and was wondering if anybody could post pics of how they ran their brake lines. Would be much appreciated. |
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