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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 10:25 pm 
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I've searched for hours trying to find the same exact problem I'm having but can't seem to find all the symptoms I'm having at once. The setup in this rail is 3/4 jamar M.C. with wilwood 2lb residual valve, jamar cb1 turning brake, and the cheap rear disc setup. Just like many other stories I have read, I got a firm pedal but the steering brake is soft. I've bench bled the T.B. I've removed the calipers, used a piece of wood between the pads n raised them above the buggy n bled them, Ive tried the hold the T.B. push the pedal, keeping pressure on the T.B. n cracked the bleeder. Still the T.B. is soft, I did notice when I push the pedal, push or pull the T.B. the foot pedal moves (stiffer) so fluid is going back to the M.C. where should I start fixing, the M.C. or the T.B. ?? I didn't have near this much trouble with my CNC/wilwood/CNC/wilwood setup. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 6:15 am 
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Location: Birmingham, Alabama
I'd get a rebuild kit for the turn brake and I heard they can be tough to get. I think there is some kinda check valve built into the piston cups that go bad. So, get a new 2 handle cnc. Plus. It seems my buggies stop a little bit better with dual turn brakes vs. foot pedal. And, faster action to steer to a stop. And, starting off on a hill is easier, same as backing down a hill.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 8:35 am 
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2800passat wrote:
I'd get a rebuild kit for the turn brake and I heard they can be tough to get. I think there is some kinda check valve built into the piston cups that go bad. So, get a new 2 handle cnc. Plus. It seems my buggies stop a little bit better with dual turn brakes vs. foot pedal. And, faster action to steer to a stop. And, starting off on a hill is easier, same as backing down a hill.


Backing down a hill?? must be a Passat thing. :P

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 9:32 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 21, 2010 10:56 pm
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Location: toccoa ga
had same problem 2nd ride on all new stuff. there was a split in one of the check valves in the cut brake. rebuilt it, been probaly 5 years no more problems


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 7:57 pm 
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Location: Northwest Indiana
Try alternating instead when you bleed them. Pump brake then TB, then brake, then TB... Finish with pressure on TB and let it collapse when the bleeder opens. Had many friends that were sure there TB was bad until they bled it that exact way...

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 8:01 pm 
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Location: medina, ohio -- wellsville a/c chapter
I would replace the wheel bearings. Not sayin that's the problem. But I know bad bearings have tendency to aid in a weak cut brake
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 8:54 am 
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Location: Birmingham, Alabama
also, when bearing housings get so sloppy that the wheel bearing just falls out into your hand. Put an old snug feeler gauge blade between the bearing and the housing and it will be like brand new. But put it on the top at 12:00 position.


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