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 Post subject: brakes dragging HELP!!
PostPosted: Tue Apr 01, 2014 10:45 pm 
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I have bled brakes for years and never had this much trouble. I changed the cutting brake on the ss to double handle that morgan used in her other buggy.the brakes bled out fine great pedal and good stopping power,but after we use them for awhile or pump them and the cutting brake quite a bit the rear brakes start to stick or drag.break the line coming from the master cylinder and nothing changes,break one of the lines between the cutting brake and the wheel and it lets go. I have used my power bleeder,the old way by pumping the master cyl up,i have pushed the cutting brake down after the master cyl while bleeding. I get a steady stream of fluid, no air at all.they will work good for a bit then start dragging again.any ideas im out.thanks for any help


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 12:55 am 
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Well you know its from cutter to cylinders! Just one or both hanging up?something is not releasing pressure correctly
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 4:33 am 
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these are 4 piston aluminum calipers (tatums) I noticed at the end of last year that the pistons on one side of the right caliper was sticking and the opposite pad had worn down to the metal.so I freed up the piston and installed new pads.dont know if this could be a problem, but this was only on one side.both sides are dragging.anybody out there have any issues with the 4 piston calipers??


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 6:22 am 
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I have changed a few rubber lines because they collapse in side had hold pressure. This goes with cars, trucks, and even buggies. Pretty much anything with a rubber brake line. I would check all the pistions again... Aluminum, steel and age don’t mix.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 7:58 am 
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If I break the line before the cutting brake and this doesnt relieve pressure can I assume mc is good??

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 8:08 am 
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Have you tried to bypass the cutter and see if you still get the same problem. That might help isolate the problem.

I have had issues where the bore on my master cylinder and the bore on my cutter where different and that created some problems.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 8:37 am 
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No I haven't tried that yet.one other thing is when they start dragging you loose play in the cutting brake handles kinda like the mc was being applied but when I break the mc line it doesnt help???

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 9:11 am 
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Does the plunger rod on the foot pedal have slack in it with no pressure applied? It could be building up the extra pressure to make your cut brakes do that.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 9:44 am 
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It returns all the way to the snap ring and I can take the clevis loose and pedal moves freely.but I dont think there is actual play in the plunger itself

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 10:05 am 
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For your MC question>>> I would assume yes.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 11:09 am 
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Is it possible that I still have a air bubble in the cutting brake causing this ? I ve bled probably a 1/2 quart with a power bleeder on each side with a steady stream

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 5:13 pm 
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May try pulling back the cutter and pumping the bakes till its pull the cutter all the way up and try bleeding them that way.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 5:36 pm 
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Maybe we will be able to keep up with that new ride if you got the brakes on all the time :lol: . Chad :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 7:29 pm 
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Il give that a try bluebuggy,hadnt done that yet. Hey chad its not my new one its morgans ss that she inherited from me. Shhhhhh dont tell her locked her brakes up so I can beat her!!!!

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 9:53 pm 
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I had this same exact problem last year. It ended up being the adjustment on the cutter piston stops. I was running a cnc dual handle cutter. The screws that you would unthread out of the housing to remove the pistons were threaded in too far and would not let the cutter release. I loosened the Allen locking screws and unthreaded the stop a couple of turns and it was fixed.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 4:28 am 
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yes I have had that problem on a single handle cutter that I adjusted to get the slack out of the handle.this is a dual handle cnc .it has a threaded rod with a clevis and a locknut. if you take the pin out of the clevis the handles can move as far as they want.they don't have a stop. so when I adjust the clevis really all it does is move the position of the handles.without a stop for the handle to hit I don't think I can actually get them to tight,if im thinking right.correct me if im wrong


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 12:48 pm 
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I thought this would be hard to explain. The adjustment I and talking about is not the clevis. There is a threaded nut on the end of the cutter that you would need to unthread out of the housing to disassemble the cutter.under the rubber boots. If those nuts are in to far it will not let the cutter release. This nut does not look like a nut it is flat and will be hard to get ahold of. There are some small Allen headed screws that hold them in place. Pm me with a phone number and I might be able to explain it better


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 2:19 pm 
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I didnt know that.im gonna take it apart tonight when I get home,I seen quite a bit of rust under the boot last night and ive these for awhile.i believe the problem is within the cutter. Il let you know tonight.thanks for your help!!!

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 06, 2014 7:36 pm 
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I had to screw the piston stop out of the cyl. Bore also . Soved my problem


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