replaced brakes , replace cutter brakes that i put a rebuild kit in. still no brakes. then i replaced the Master cylinder bought a 3/4 bore wild wood like you all suggested. bench bled it. even bought a vacuum pump.
pumped and pumped. still no brakes. then i reverted to the old way. i pumped up brake and repeated 3 cup full on the vacuum cup. also this is about reservoir and a half on the master cylinder. i done this on both sides.
now if i pump it about 3 times i have brakes at the pedal, but the cutters don't cut unless i depress the brack pedal and then hit one of the cutters.
the only thing i haven't changed is the lines. but the once the pedal pumps up it seems to hold until you let off, then you have to pump them up again.
i have i think 3/16 brake line. is this the correct size? also i have adapter on that screws into the front of the master cylinder that allows the brake light switch to be installed. could this be causing me issues.
PLEASE HELP!! any insight would greatly be appreciated

o you keep getting air when you bleed it? try pinching hoses with vise grips one at a time to see if pedal stiffens.

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If it ain't broke ill fix that

ok i am going to as a stupid question rubber hose or metal hose? and if you are talking about the metal ones, doesn't that ruin the brake line?

rubber lines dont sqaush them just enough to block flow.

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If it ain't broke ill fix that

How are your calipers mounted? Horizontal or vertical?

horizontal/ on top!

Call me in 5 min

440-225-9063 Brad

I'm running sentra calipers as well with a stock master cyl, dual handle CNC's and had similar problems with mine last year. We gravity bled it first, then used vacuum to get it pretty close but you still had to push pedal down twice to have brakes. I bought a 2lb residual pressure valve and put in and rebled it and worked like a charm. Might give it a shot?

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--WHEN IN DOUBT, THROTTLE OUT!!!--

thanks Hillaholic for talking with me, i think we might have figured out what my issue is, i think i need a residual valve.

thanks to all

thanks snail rail, i was on the phone with hilaholic when you posted this and this is what we came up with. i know this is driving me nuts!! hope fully this will fix it.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/drum-brak ... 32070.html

This is the type I was telling you about. It will thread right into the master cylinder.

found a place in Lexington called SR Racing
they had a 10lb but not a 2lb , but they will be in the morning. so hopefully this will fix it.
here is there info for those of you that live around the Lexington ,KY area

http://www.sracing.com/

100 Mercer Ct. Suite 120
Lexington KY, 40511

(859)252-2496

10# is for drum brakes and 2# is for disk brakes. I had a similar issue and the residual valve only helped a little. My final solution was a 7/8" master cylinder. I installed it and never looked back. When I hit the pedal now I always have solid brakes.

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Water cooled Dry Sumped Subaru Powered Turbo Charged Fuel Injected 2500CC Tank. Oh Rah! He who dies with the most Toys not only wins, He also wears them out!

Another little trick if your trying to bleed by yourself is to put a short length of vacuum hose on the bleeders and put some brake fluid in a jar, put the hose in the jar. Instead of pulling in air when you release the peddle it will pull in fluid. Eventually you will bleed all the air out.

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Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.
M
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I don't remember you saying whether you got a solid pedal and no brakes but it sounded like you have a pedal that can be pumped up but goes squishy soon after which says to me you have a leak(s). Sometimes fluid doesn't come out but there's enough room for air to be sucked back and forth through a joint.
I'm also betting you wasted money on that residual valve because you should be chasing a leak not throwing parts at it.
Granted I still had a stock system but it took me a couple years of rebleeding brakes before I finally solved my problem which was a combination of worn stock master and those PIA bubble flares VW uses.
I also think I increased the bore of the master because my dual master pedal was now pushing twice as much fluid. I also like the dual master because if one end goes dry you still have the other which is important when you're on the road like me. I almost bought a residual but those are more used to balance a brake system, like when your fronts are locking up before the rears start to grab.
good luck
I friggin hate brake pressure issues. That's why I had asked not too long ago in another thread about why no one was concerned about mixing and matching these different calipers and masters without concern for ratios. We do this in sportbiking but as you can imagine it's a bit more touchy and obvious when you've F'ed up your master ratio.

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has left the building...

this is what I do because I'm always working alone. It can be messy but it's fool proof. Especially if you can add some speed bleeders to the system. Then you truely can do it yourself.

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has left the building...

We had to take calipers off my nephew's buggy to bleed them. Because the way they was mounted wasn't getting all the air out. Once stood up and bleed one time had a full pedal.

once i pump them up i have solid pedal and have held it in as long as 5 min. no let off. but when i let off and go to hit them again i have to re-pump, that's why we are kind off figuring it needs a residual valve, because its bleeding out of the cutter brakes back into the MC. because the cutters are mounted higher than the MC, about 6 to 10 " higher. but i really appreciate everyone's opinion and help. this is a great forum , and it really helps when you are having a frustrating time on something.
thanks

Pull the front end up on your trailer and then jack the front up some more so the master cylinder is the highest point, open the furthest bleed screw and let the air bleed out. You have air trapped in the system. The next question is did you bench bleed your master before installing it?

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

I'm gonna have to disagree with you on purpose of residual pressure valve. They're made in a 2lb (disk) or 10lb (drum) and they hold just a slight amount of pressure on the system. It fixed mine. I think you're referring to a proportioning valve. like here http://ssbrakes.com/i-10094006-proportioning-valve-adjustable-black.html

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--WHEN IN DOUBT, THROTTLE OUT!!!--

I run a 2 LB Willwood residual pressure valve and it keeps the pads from backing off the rotor. It will not help when the car has air in the hydraulic system as air is compressible and fluid is not.

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

yes i bench bled the MC, and i will try that tomorrow.
thanks

Loose axle nuts will let the rotor walk back and forth and move your pads out just enough to give grief.Same with wo out bearing housings and inner ball bearrings. Same with slightly bent stub axles and warped rotors.Trash and dirt between rotor and hub. I have put feeler gauge blades between the roller bearings and the housing to take up "Up and Down slack". Frozen rusty calipers won't bleed out from my experience. Just my 2cents.

i had the same problem. I had to take the calipers off and get the bleeders pointed straight up and higher than mastercylinder. And the same thing with the cutters make sure the breeders is the highest point.

And passat has a good point if you loose it after it rolls something is shoving the pistons in. I checked mine with a dial indicator and got it within .006.