I finished my disk brake project, well..almost. I have a leak, gotta replace a line . Must have been a bad flare. I'm using 1986 front Nissan Sentra calipers. All I can say is WOW, what a difference from Drum brakes. I tried it out on dry pavement with one disk on the drivers side and a drum on the passenger side to get a comparison. The disk locks up the Swampers so easily. Now just got to get the new line on. I'm sure whoever rides in front of me now can undo the pucker factor in fear of me running over them...lol. Here is a pic of the bracket and caliper.

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When in doubt pray harder!

I know how u feel, when I upgraded to disks, I could lock up my v-treads in my driveway which is only 2 car lengths, if u have cutters installed wait till u grab one, spin on a dime.

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Your about to taste liquid hell!!!!!!!!!!!!
"I don't know where that ounce of weed came from officer these aren't my pants."

When you ordered your calipers which ones did you order. I ordered the left and right and one came with the bracket and the other didnt. And the parts place said they dont know why one came with it and the other didnt. Cant remember which side came with the bracket. Can i for instence use two left ones, one on the left the other onthe right.

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I may not know alot about working on cars, but I know enough to be dangerous.

Tater bug they both should have came with brackets. Take it back and raise hell. You can use two of the same side but you will have to take it off to bleed it because the bleeder will be on the bottom of one of them.

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If it ain't broke ill fix that

I did in deed raise hell and i ordered both front left and right. They were a little different and the bleeders are on the top. Im gonna try a different parts place monday. Is there a way to tell witch is left and right? And is it better to mount them on the top of the trailing arm or off the back like you did? And is there any way you can send me some more pics of your setup and some instructions?

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I may not know alot about working on cars, but I know enough to be dangerous.

Big d, I never worried about you being able to stop, I was more concerned with global warming from the oil fumes and raw fuel out of the exhaust.

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

Well Tater the same thing happened to me. One came with bracket and the other didn't. But the box said it did came with bracket. I wound up ordering the bracket separately. It must have to do something with the Nissan supplier. I'm not pushing a lot of HP with super wide tires so I bought the Empi rotors. Just remove all factory brake hardware and slide rotor on. Place caliper on rotor and add air pressure. This will center the caliper on the rotor. Now you can mark where you need to weld your mounting flange. Use 1/4'' or 3/8'' thick plate. Make sure your caliper bracket is square to your mounting flange. Drill holes and weld on. Hope this helps.

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When in doubt pray harder!

Hey Eric, I got my fumes lowered with my new dual carbs. It ran really well at HawkPride. Hopefully I will my new motor in this coming week and that should eliminate the oil spills..lol. Are you going to RUSH? I am.

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When in doubt pray harder!

At the parts place i ordered them from they cant order the braket its self. Do you have a part number for it? And how did you hook up air to the caliper to make it center its self on the rotor?

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I may not know alot about working on cars, but I know enough to be dangerous.

I got mine from carquest and they both with the bracket and I also mounted the left on the right and right on the left to get bleeder plug higher

I looked the part number off the boxes up on ebay and according to the ebay pages 82 - 90 model Nissan sentra used the same front calipers

left side front part # 19-B871
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CARDONE-19-B871 ... 07&vxp=mtr

right side front part # 19-B870
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CARDONE-19-B870 ... 13&vxp=mtr

for some reason autozone and orielly websites wont crossover to the cardone brand part numbers but put in a 1990 Nissan sentra and then just look up the front calipers and you can see the options and different pricing for bare caliper, caliper with bracket, loaded caliper, bracket only, etc.... you have to watch out for warranty and core fees also

im not a big fan of ebay but the ones I posted had the bracket, $6.95 shipping, and $4.00 core charge (supposedly included in total price), if you just type the part # in ebay search function there are other options/prices, even from the same seller that have free shipping and no mention of a core charge

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Just Stand On It!!!!

Chris

I would realy appreciate it if you could.

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I may not know alot about working on cars, but I know enough to be dangerous.

I went ahead and looked so I wouldn't forget, updated my previous post

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Just Stand On It!!!!

Chris

Ridenrace is correct. You switch left to right and right to left to get the bleeders up. The brackets are are marked L and R for the side. Advanced Auto can also order the bracket separately. Plug the line in and take the air hose with a rubber end and blow air in the bleeder. You don't need to hold the air to it. once the caliper aligne its self it will stay in place. I dont know the stock number.

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When in doubt pray harder!

Thats where i ordered mine from and they said they cant order the caliper bracket its self. Im gonna try on the web some and see what i find.

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I may not know alot about working on cars, but I know enough to be dangerous.

I hate to hijack your thread and everything. But its being realy helpful to me and im sure others. Did you go from hard line to soft line to the caliper.

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I may not know alot about working on cars, but I know enough to be dangerous.

autozone and orielly both offer the bracket by itself, just make sure you get parts for a "sedan/coupe" and not "wagon" as the part numbers are different

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/ ... gm05Z8knuq

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/searc ... vi=1212769

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Just Stand On It!!!!

Chris

The original lines that go to the caliper are bango fittings/lines, which are rubber. I opted out of these for two reasons. 1) they are $25 each. 2) They are rubber. It took awhile but I found adapters to run metal lines from the calipers to the flex lines at the torsion section. I can't help with those adapters, cant remember what they were. I just took the caliper and lines to a parts place and started matching fittings. No problem hi jacking here. This is what its about ...helping each other.

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When in doubt pray harder!

I think I will be going to Rush, I think we should go up to D&k and ride with they Kentucky crew once it warms up an dries out. I hope you know the earlier comments were in good humor. I like the creativity and it is always nice to see different solutions.

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

here is a banjo to 3AN fitting, just make sure you get 10mm x 1.0 bolt to go with it

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/3-8-Inch- ... ,6468.html


or another option is to get a brass 90 with pipe threads on one end and a flair fitting on the other end that fits the brake line, the pipe thread will kinda thread into the metric caliper fitting, just use plenty of thread tape around it, this is what I did and haven't had any trouble, I also put thread tape around the bleeder plug because it helps from sucking air if you use one of the vacuum type bleeders

regardless of which route you go I recommend at least a short piece of flexible line up around the torsion housing whether it be rubber or braided line

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Just Stand On It!!!!

Chris

Good info Chris. I may get some of those fittings in case I need to redo.

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When in doubt pray harder!

Is it better to mount the caliper on top of the trailing arm or off the back like you did, and did you weld small strips of steel all the way around the bearing housing? And nice welds by the way im a welder by trade. And what size tire and wheel combo are you running and how much clearance do you have?

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I may not know alot about working on cars, but I know enough to be dangerous.

I had mine on top for a year then got new arms and had to move them to the back like his I think It works better and I know bleeding them was ALOT less of a pain in the azz..

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My ECOTEC swap http://www.woodsbuggy.com/index.php?option=com_jfusion&Itemid=10&jfile=viewtopic.php&f=23&t=11394

I really don't which is better, on top or on the back. On the back or front is how most factory cars are. If I do i again I will move them toward the top a little more. They hang a little low due to the angle of the trailing arm, plus my lines are open to brush when backing up. And yes I boxed the top, bottom and back with 1/4" plate to help absorb the pressure. The first pic of welding isn't finished. I welded all sides and ends of the plates. I am running 30X11.50 Swampers. About 18" of clearance. Thanks for the weld compliment.

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When in doubt pray harder!

Ok thanks man im gonna get started on mine when i get my other caliper. Ill start a build thread on it too. Thanks for all the help you guys.

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I may not know alot about working on cars, but I know enough to be dangerous.

I just used a piece of 1/4" flat bar on top to mount my Nissan calipers, my other buggy has the bolt on disk brake kit and the brackets are made to mount the calipers on the back, they seem to work better on the back than when the previous owner had them mounted on the top

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Just Stand On It!!!!

Chris