I bought the pedals pictured below several years ago when I was actively building the buggy. It sat for probably 4 or 5 years with full master cylinders and the brakes were completely bled and seemed to work great with firm pedals and good movement of the slave cylinder with the clutch pedal. The car was never driven, didn't even have an engine or wiring. I noticed brake fluid leaking a couple years ago while it was stored and just sitting in the garage. I'm back to working on the project and I just pulled the pedal assemblies off to look at what's going on. They are destroyed and I have no idea why. It appears that the brake fluid ate at everything. I know brake fluid draws moisture and can cause some nasty corrosion but this is odd. It's like rust, scum and corrosion is all over everything. I tried to seal the top cap seal on one cylinder that appeared to be leaking a bit there but it starting leaking at the plunger seal like the other two. They all three leak and the plungers are even scored. It even looks like it was eating at the rubber. They were clean when they were installed so no idea on the scoring. They are a knock-off CNC, they are either Racetrim or Latest Rage, can't remember which. Any suggestions? I'll probably buy some rebuild kits but do you think the brake fluid ate at everything or just moisture that got in with the leaks? I used Prestone DOT3 fluid, nothing fancy or special. Here are some pics of the clutch master cylinder internals and the external master cylinders. To clean these up they'll require some acid or blasting. It's nasty.

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"Obstacles are those frightful things you see when you take your eyes off your goal." -Henry Ford

Does anyone know if CNC master cylinders will fit these knock-offs? I'll buy three new master cylinders for the piece of mind knowing I have brakes and a clutch. Cheap parts suck!

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"Obstacles are those frightful things you see when you take your eyes off your goal." -Henry Ford

get them off summit. the wilwood ones that are just like he ones you got are about 50 bucks. well worth it

Thanks for the wilwood tip. I can't believe they are cheaper. I'm looking into them now.

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"Obstacles are those frightful things you see when you take your eyes off your goal." -Henry Ford

That 3/4 cup is the same cup in a wheel cyl rebiuld kit at Auto Zone for $4. Look under World Parts part #66599. The way I memorized it, it is the same # upside down.Sealed up parts such as electrical just need to have 1 drip of moisture to set up and corrode. Just enough to make it humid inside.Such as wheel bearrings throttle pos sensor, relays, etc.I cross creeks alot and have niticed if I loose a bearring cap the heat and water stays out and last just as long and sometimes longer.Remove 1 of yours and take a note which lasts longer.Me and my son have A arms with huge Isuzu 1 ton wheel bearrings. We thought we would never by wheel bearrings again.About once a year we have to go to Pull a Part and put some bearrings in our pocket.Water destroys them, not hard riding.I don't care how big and tough they are.Oh and watch the ehanol corrossion in your fuel pump and carb.Oh and put a dip in your fuel line to catch any water so your carb don't freeze and bust this winter.And add Stabil . I know yall know all this stuff, but just trying to help new people.Dave out.

Just replaced all three master cylinders with the Wilwood cylinders. They bolted right up and worked awesome. The threaded plunger rod needed to be shortened about a 3/8" to work right with the pedals but that was a simple fix. Bench bled them, bolted them up and bled the system. Worked perfect.

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"Obstacles are those frightful things you see when you take your eyes off your goal." -Henry Ford

glad to hear it!

From what i'v eseen, the expensive ones will do the same thing

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Maybe you should chug on over to mamby pamby land....