everything on it is new lines calipers and the master cylinder it has a wilwood 3/4 master cylinder and nissan sentra brakes and it dont have any brakes unless you pump them a couple times then when you let off it goes back to nothing it dont have any cutters hooked up to it, any suggestions?

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Brandon

make sure your bleeders are the highest point of your brake system even if you have to unbolt them and turn the caliper so the bleeder is at the top.but make sure you put somthing in the caliper so you dont push the piston out. good luck

Few guys told me to put a residual valve in the brake to take care of this problem when running disc brakes or you will have to pump them a couple timed to get pedal back

Check the wheel bearings too.

Jack up the front end as high as you can and put a bungee on your brake pedal for a few days checking once or twice a day to see if it bled off. Any air should make its way back to the master cylinder

I'm having the same problem, did you ever figure out the issue? What set up do you have, I have rear disc brakes with new lines and calipers. I am thinking there might be air getting in between the reservoir and the master cylinder.

2# residual pressure valve is all you need. 8-10# is for drum brakes. It keeps pressure in the line even when the pedal is not pressed. It's just enough to keep the "slack" out of the system so you don't have to pump the pedal to have good brakes. Works like a charm and they are sold about everywhere. Wilwood makes them and so do a ton of other places. Goes directly in line right off the master cylinder.

http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/ ... o=260-1874

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"Obstacles are those frightful things you see when you take your eyes off your goal." -Henry Ford

I have had another issue with my cutting brake I get a great pressure pulling back but I have less pushing the other direction. I have a wilwood residual pressure placed after my 1 3/4" Afco racing Master cylinder. I only have this issue with the cutting brake. I am running a home build brake setup that uses a ford front rotor and chevy S-10 calipers with circle track brackets mounted on the trailing arm.

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

Start with the basics first. Make sure your wheel bearings don't allow any movement of the wheel. Next have someone pump the brakes till they have a pedal and hold. While they are doing this watch the caliper to see that it is square to the rotor. If there is any twisting or any movement other than the caliper moving on the sliders then you will never get a good pedal. A residual valve will help if it's not squared up, but IMO these are band aids . Once all of these things are decided to be as they should, with the wheel off have someone hold the brake pedal and crack the bleeder and then while still holding the pedal take a flat screwdriver and press the caliper piston in all the way and tighten the bleeder without letting anything move. Hope this helps. This is the way me and wade bleed ours with pretty good luck.

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ask no questions and you'll get no lies

The car is 100% straight and the mounts are parallel with the rotor. I think that I have air trapped in the CNC cutting brake. I should probably purchase a pressure bleeder. I had this problem on a previous buggy and the pressure bleed worked. Thanks for the great info. The creative fab on this site is great.

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

This photo shows the circle track bracket install for using Chevy S-10 Caliper (Floating Caliper Mount)

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Water Cooled Consortium, Chairman of the Build (Former AC purist)

whichever side is soft on the cutter is your problem and obviously after the cutter try crimping your brake hose with a pair of vice grips to see if it gets better if it does problem is brake hose or after. if it does not get better its brake hose to cutter. or try bungee cording the cuter over night and check for leaks.

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If it ain't broke ill fix that